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I want shiny brass. Stainless steel tumbler

Best way I found to separate the pins from the brass is to use my Dillon case separator that I used to use to get the media out of my cases. I just dump the brass in the cage and start spinning it and in a short time all them pins and excess water is out of the cases. I then put them in flats with a towel and dry them off. If it is summer they go outside to finish drying and if its winter they just sit in the flats for a day or so. Works great.
 
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The best investment you can make is to buy a gallon of denatured alcohol and a gallon of acetone. Pour half of both into a three gallon bucket (get a lid for your bucket and reuse forever).

After you sift your brass from the pins dunk your brass in the solvent bath. Thirty seconds is fine. Reach in and grab the brass and shake it in the bucket to drain the solvent.

Now put out to dry on a cookie sheet. I put mine in my convection oven on 135 degrees for ten minutes but this is not necessary.

Now your cases will truly stay shiny.

You're welcome. :)
 
I wouldn't advise any kind of car wash/wax product. My experience with those products is that the wax seals a layer of dirt on the case (ask your wife about Mop and Glow) and then the heat from the brass transfers the dirt and wax to the barrel chamber. Not a good thing.

I'm struggling to see this layer of dirt - what should I be looking for?

VA2H0021.jpg
 
The best investment you can make is to buy a gallon of denatured alcohol and a gallon of acetone. Pour half of both into a three gallon bucket (get a lid for your bucket and reuse forever).

After you sift your brass from the pins dunk your brass in the solvent bath. Thirty seconds is fine. Reach in and grab the brass and shake it in the bucket to drain the solvent.

Now put out to dry on a cookie sheet. I put mine in my convection oven on 135 degrees for ten minutes but this is not necessary.

Now your cases will truly stay shiny.

You're welcome. :)

Why denatured alcohol? Methanol or is cheaper. You shouldn't have skin contact or breath any solvent. Warm soapy water works, it's safe and cheap. Laundry or dish detergent works fine.
 
Webster
The reason your not having a problem is your using the right amount , most feel more is better . The reason I switched from Dawn to Sun detergent is I asked my wife why don't you use Dawn , she said Sun worked better , It does . Next time give it a try , I stopped using the LemiShine .

All my friends comment how nice and shinny my brass is , ONLY KIDDING . I changed to wet tumbling because I didn't like the carbon buildup inside the case , has worked will for me . I benchrest only 30 rounds at a range trip I alternate my brass using the same 90 cases per season . Each week I have plenty of time perping only 30 cases , I may go alittle over board but I enjoy reloading as much as shooting . Until the next time , Be Well

Chris
 
Why denatured alcohol? Methanol or is cheaper. You shouldn't have skin contact or breath any solvent. Warm soapy water works, it's safe and cheap. Laundry or dish detergent works fine.

Denatured alcohol and acetone is very easy to work with. You can dunk your hands on it and it just evaporates. It's what my friend who owns a body shop cleans his hands with every day after work.

You can use rubbing alcohol. I suppose you could use methane if you have a source for it... But this works great for me.
 
I just followed the vendors instructions:

1. Add 5 Lbs (2.27 kg) of SS media into the drum
2. Next fill with 1 gallon (3.78 Liters) of cold water. (One gallon)=8 Lbs/3.63 kg
3. Add your brass into the drum (2-4 Lbs of brass)
4. Add dish soap. 1 -2 Tbs (15-30 mL) of either Dawn, Ivory, or Joy dish soap
(if there are no soap bubbles in the water after you tumble, you need more soap)
5. Add 1/4 Tsp. (1.25 mL) of Lemishine. This is the key to the shine. (Not too much)
6. Tumble 3-4 hours with the Model B High Speed Thumler’s Tumbler
7. Pour out as much water as you can without losing any brass or pins
(The more you rinse the brass and pins the better your results will be next time)
8. Fill drum with water, and separate brass by hand or use an STM Media Separator with water.
9. Rinse your brass off really good with some warm water. (Not getting a good rinse can leave water spots on the brass)
10. Dump brass onto a towel and let dry. If any pins get stuck in the neck of the brass throw those pins away
11. Store Stainless Steel Media either wet or dry in drum

I do not clean my brass more than 45 mins per 100 pieces.

Great recipe! The only difference with me is I use Distilled Water. I put all brass in a shell holder, primer side up, and put a fan on them for 2 days to insure their dry.

45 minutes top, be prepared to bevel the brass neck. Pins are tough on the necks. The SS tumbler does a great job, especially on the carbon on the inside the brass.
 
Denatured alcohol and acetone is very easy to work with. You can dunk your hands on it and it just evaporates. It's what my friend who owns a body shop cleans his hands with every day after work.

You can use rubbing alcohol. I suppose you could use methane if you have a source for it... But this works great for me.
You really should read the chemical MSDS reports before using chemicals. I think you were referring to methylene chloride, because methane is a gas.
 
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You really should read the chemical MSDS reports before using chemicals. I think you were referring to methylene chloride, because methane is a gas.
MSDS stands for Material Safety Data Sheet . I worked in the industry over thirty years delivering lots of hazardous materials. I don't know that much but I do know how to stay safe and healthy. AT least my doctor says I'm healthy, " ON PAPER ".
 
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Denatured alcohol and acetone is very easy to work with. You can dunk your hands on it and it just evaporates. It's what my friend who owns a body shop cleans his hands with every day after work.

You can use rubbing alcohol. I suppose you could use methane if you have a source for it... But this works great for me.

You might want to read up on acetone, and it's hazards to health before issuing such advice; for your own well being as well as others. And I suspect what you refer to as 'methane', which is essentially natural gas, is in reality 'methanol'.

Downloading some MSDS Sheets would be beneficial:

https://www.msdsdigital.com/system/files/Acetone.pdf
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927227


...and for Christmas, buy your bodyshop friend some GLOVECOTE: http://www.diversifiedcompoundedproducts.com/barrier_glovecoteblue.asp
 

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Don't know about hard water. LemiShine contains citric acid it's known as a copper cleaner. Don't know why some people have trouble with LemiShine & Dawn, works perfect for me. I don't even measure it anymore, just dump in a small amount.

Step Back! Crazy Man is is on the scene! This Lemmy Shine* (* It's a joke, just keep reading) I keep hearing about isn't available in our area. After about 5 more minutes of research an article on brass cleaning popped up. It suggested acetic acid as a substitute for Lemmy Shine, which contains citric acid.
So, my recipe is based on the cheap-o double canister rock tumbler form Harbor Freight and an unverified story from the web:
~2.something pounds of pins, a little over a pound of brass, a drizzle of Dawn, half a tsp of household vinegar and enough water to cover the brass.
Run for a couple of hours and the brass comes out looking factory fresh.

Now in the dark of night, when no one else is around I can put my ear close to the tumbling brass and I swear I hear Ace of Spades.

Motörhead - Ace Of Spades
 
Maybe it would be best if they stick to the cheap bourbon for final rinse, because a lot of these guys get plenty of contact with that.

Naw, I gave up on that about 20 years ago. As an aside, I have gallon cans of denatured alcohol, acetone, xylene, and other goodies in the workshop for my other hobby, rocketry. For the record I wear gloves when handling any of the above.
 

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