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I am seeking advice!!

You should check out longrangehunting.com. I am currently shooting a 7-300win mag in a custom Pierce. I also have a custom 7WSM on a Stiller. There are a lot of factors involved in taking 1000 yd shots at animals. It is not as easy as just developing a load and developing drop charts. If I were you I would either put together a Savage or buy a used gun and start shooting to figure out what you like and don't like in a long range rifle. You will have to figure out for yourself how heavy a rifle you are willing to carry. Heavier is easier to shoot well. I suggest looking at a Manners EH-1, a Mcmillan game scout, or a Mcmillan A3. I have a sendero contour barrel and a #5. I prefer the #5. I also prefer longer barrels in the 28"-29" range.
Thanks for the reply! I've seen the 7/300WM from a guy on Long Range Shooters of Utah and it looks pretty sweet! Is it hard to make the ammo for it? I do like the McMillan A3 stock. I want a heavier type of barrel but not to heavy. I also agree with you on the 28"-29" length for the barrel. I'm hoping we can talk more and you can help me figure out what to do! :-)
 
My first long range custom was a sendero copy 7wsm(still have it). It is too heavy for me. I want to be able to carry my rifle into the back country. My next was a 7-300 Pierce titanium with a #5 contour barrel and an EH-1. I personally think this is the best stock for shooting prone and trying to save a little weight. As far as making 7-300 it really is as simple as running 300 brass through a 300 win mag bushing die with the appropriate bushing. So far I love the cartridge and do not see any gain from the 28 Nolser. The 7-300 is with 20-50 fps of an STW with quite a bit less powder and less mag space. There is a lot of first hand knowledge from individuals on LRH.com that say real world the 300s and 338s smoke the sevens at long range but on paper a 7-300 pushing a 180 3200fps is pretty impressive. I have not shot any animals yet with the 7-300 but hope to shoot a bear next month. I have had several Savages and a few customs for me the only real advantages of the customs are the extra magazine room and resale.
 
My first long range custom was a sendero copy 7wsm(still have it). It is too heavy for me. I want to be able to carry my rifle into the back country. My next was a 7-300 Pierce titanium with a #5 contour barrel and an EH-1. I personally think this is the best stock for shooting prone and trying to save a little weight. As far as making 7-300 it really is as simple as running 300 brass through a 300 win mag bushing die with the appropriate bushing. So far I love the cartridge and do not see any gain from the 28 Nolser. The 7-300 is with 20-50 fps of an STW with quite a bit less powder and less mag space. There is a lot of first hand knowledge from individuals on LRH.com that say real world the 300s and 338s smoke the sevens at long range but on paper a 7-300 pushing a 180 3200fps is pretty impressive. I have not shot any animals yet with the 7-300 but hope to shoot a bear next month. I have had several Savages and a few customs for me the only real advantages of the customs are the extra magazine room and resale.
Are there a lot of after market parts for savage rifles? I had a weather warrior in .308 and it felt cheap to me. I'm not exactly easy on my guns. Haha. If you want text me at 404-361-0986. I live in Moore, OK. Wouldn't mind talking to you some more! :-)
 
Swatman05,
Been following along on this thread and reading the responses to your questions. Now I'm kinda curious about a few things you haven't mentioned. First, what kinda price range do you envision spending on this build? Next, do you do your own reloading or are you content with "across the counter" ammunition? Gotta tell you I do like the idea of the 300Win Mag with a Harrel Mussle brake or even the 300RUM with a Muzzle brake. And I'm anxious to see what you ultimately come up with. Kinda neat to see someone listening to others and thinking this through without just diving in. Wise move and helps (financially) to get it right the first time. Good luck!

Alex
 
Swatman05,
Been following along on this thread and reading the responses to your questions. Now I'm kinda curious about a few things you haven't mentioned. First, what kinda price range do you envision spending on this build? Next, do you do your own reloading or are you content with "across the counter" ammunition? Gotta tell you I do like the idea of the 300Win Mag with a Harrel Mussle brake or even the 300RUM with a Muzzle brake. And I'm anxious to see what you ultimately come up with. Kinda neat to see someone listening to others and thinking this through without just diving in. Wise move and helps (financially) to get it right the first time. Good luck!

Alex
I'll definitely take my time and research all the components that will be going into the build. I want to try to keep it at $2,500 or $3,000 at the MAX. Haha. I don't reload and I want to get into it. Maybe I could pay a trust worthy guy on here to help me find a load? I'd buy the components, just need them put together. :-)
 
Swatman05,
Thx for the clarification. As to the price, is that with or without glass (scope)? And as to your idea about having someone on here load for you. It's a nice idea but has some issues, one of which is civil liability and the other is having the availability of the rifle to test loads with. In short, might I suggest you locate someone near you and with whom you can go shoot your new rifle. There are simply too many variables when testing loads that can lead to problems with an unknown rifle and how it is set up. Now very likely, the Gunsmith who builds your rifle will have much better insight into what specifics the rifle has.... that unless you buy an across the counter rifle which is built to SAAMI specs. Then across the counter ammunition will work fine without having to seek out chamber specific loads. And in that vane, you might want to take a look at www.savagearms.com as they build some very nice 1K rifles. Hope that helps.

Alex
 
Primary purpose is for long rang hunting and shooting. I want to be able to consistently hit a 12" steel plate at 1,000yds and hit an Elk with a good kill shot up to 1,000yds.


Unless you are an extremely seasoned shooter..... with excellent equipment...... knowing the rifle really well..... and a good set of drop numbers....using hunting equipment .....
your request is a day dream......
Very few men can do that......
bill larson
 
Swatman05,
Thx for the clarification. As to the price, is that with or without glass (scope)? And as to your idea about having someone on here load for you. It's a nice idea but has some issues, one of which is civil liability and the other is having the availability of the rifle to test loads with. In short, might I suggest you locate someone near you and with whom you can go shoot your new rifle. There are simply too many variables when testing loads that can lead to problems with an unknown rifle and how it is set up. Now very likely, the Gunsmith who builds your rifle will have much better insight into what specifics the rifle has.... that unless you buy an across the counter rifle which is built to SAAMI specs. Then across the counter ammunition will work fine without having to seek out chamber specific loads. And in that vane, you might want to take a look at www.savagearms.com as they build some very nice 1K rifles. Hope that helps.

Alex
That'd be with glass. I'm looking at the Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 in FFP. That usually runs right under $1K. So that leaves about $1,500-$2,000 for a rifle. Do you know of any good gunsmith's out there?
 
Unless you are an extremely seasoned shooter..... with excellent equipment...... knowing the rifle really well..... and a good set of drop numbers....using hunting equipment .....
your request is a day dream......
Very few men can do that......
bill larson
I didn't say it'd be for sure a 1,000yd shot, but UP TO that distance
 
Buy a factory rifle in .338 Lapua and go learn to shoot @ 1000 yards. By the time you learn to hit an 8" target CONSISTENTLY @ 1000yds you will have burned out at least 2 barrels. Remember 2 things--cold barrel accuracy is mandatory-- and if you wound an Elk @ 1000yds. it has a 1000yd. headstart on you and will probably be in 4-Wheel Overdrive heading for the nearest Jackpot it can find. dedogs
 
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If you can reliably hit 12" steel first shot at 1k.... You need to compete! To hunt ethically at 1000 for one shot , first shot kills will be quite a feat.

I have a few 10 ring first shots in my 1k notebook from my matches....but very few.
 
Buy a factory rifle in .338 Lapua and go learn to shot @ 1000 yards. By the time you learn to hit an 8" target CONSISTENTLY @ 1000yds you will have burned out at least 2 barrels. Remember 2 things--cold barrel accuracy is mandatory-- and if you wound an Elk @ 1000yds. it has a 1000yd. headstart on you and will probably be in 4-Wheel Overdrive heading for the nearest Jackpot he can find. dedogs
That's a great idea! I was looking at a Remington 700 in 300RUM. I can get it for $620 brand new with a M40 style stock with aluminum pillars and a 26" bull barrel. Any thoughts on that?
 
If you can reliably hit 12" steel first shot at 1k.... You need to compete! To hunt ethically at 1000 for one shot , first shot kills will be quite a feat.

I have a few 10 ring first shots in my 1k notebook from my matches....but very few.
That's awesome! I'm not expecting to build up a rifle and be able to be consistent at 1K yards immediately. I want to go to where I'm gonna be hunting and practice shooting. I know altitude and a variety of of the factors play a big role in that distance. I live in Oklahoma so if I get good here, doesn't mean it'll be the same shooting conditions in Northern New Mexico or Colorado. Haha
 
I know a gentleman that was hunting locally on one of our only high elevation long-range areas. Between 800 to 1000 yards with a 7mm. Hunting white tail. They had their tripod spotting scope set up and after glass the far hillside, found a buck feeding. Several shots later it finally went down. He said they noticed it would jump or move after each shot and they thought they were just missing and spooking it with the bullet hitting nearby.

They found they had shot it all to heck before they finally killed it.

Good luck and use enough gun! Got to admit, when I saw the opposum at the bottom of the 1K scoreboard at Oak Ridge one morning....I so wanted to take the shot!
 
Just for grins I just went over to the JBM calculator. A 30 Caliber 190 Grain Nosler Accubond long range launched at 2900 fps will take 1.4 seconds to travel 1000 yards. This doesn't count lock time and your own reaction time, so let's call that another .1 second. Wonder how far an elk could move in 1.5 seconds? Just something to think about.
 
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Just for grins I just went over to the JBM calculator. A 190 Grain Nosler Accubond long range launched at 2900 fps will take 1.4 seconds to travel 1000 yards. This doesn't count lock time and your own reaction time, so let's call that another .1 second. Wonder how far an elk could move in 1.5 seconds? Just something to think about.
What Caliber though?
 
I know a gentleman that was hunting locally on one of our only high elevation long-range areas. Between 800 to 1000 yards with a 7mm. Hunting white tail. They had their tripod spotting scope set up and after glass the far hillside, found a buck feeding. Several shots later it finally went down. He said they noticed it would jump or move after each shot and they thought they were just missing and spooking it with the bullet hitting nearby.

They found they had shot it all to heck before they finally killed it.

Good luck and use enough gun! Got to admit, when I saw the opposum at the bottom of the 1K scoreboard at Oak Ridge one morning....I so wanted to take the shot!
I'm leaning towards a Remington 700 in 300RUM to start. I really wish I could get into a 338-378 Weatherby but that ammo is ridiculous!! :-)
 
Just for grins I just went over to the JBM calculator. A 30 Caliber 190 Grain Nosler Accubond long range launched at 2900 fps will take 1.4 seconds to travel 1000 yards. This doesn't count lock time and your own reaction time, so let's call that another .1 second. Wonder how far an elk could move in 1.5 seconds? Just something to think about.
Add a wind change of 10 mph. Larry
 

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