i have a Remington Sendero in 300 RUM. i have only shot 40 rounds through it and cant stand the recoil. i want to put a muzzle brake on it if i am going to keep it. i am going to use the gun for hunting so i would prefer a brake with no ports on the bottom and also i would like the brake to push the pressure/muzzle blast away from the shooter. i have done some research and these ones have sparked my interest- Assassin, Holland, Precision Armament or JEC Custom. any others recommendations would be great. thanks in advance for any info.
Hunting muzzle brake for 300 RUM
- Thread starter Roughneck
- Start date
CaptainMal
Silver $$ Contributor
This could be an open "can of worms".
My take is I like a brake on all my larger hunting rifles. Used to have a Darryl Holland brake on my 375 and another on a 25-06 I had in the hope I could see the hits better. I also hunt with a BOSS equipped 338, 7mm Mag and use a RAS brake on my 260 AI. Have had more and just spent a futile moment looking for one of those Holland brakes I know I have in the "junk" but can't find right now. It was one with the solid bottom so I would not kick up dirt when close to the ground.
BULL. Dirt kicks up with that style. Never noticed a change. Did notice with both of that style I had that neither barrel shot well after adding those brakes. Now the sample for me is only two so it's not statistically significant. My take is the barrel gets pushed down, butt popped up, and the gun gets a bit more difficult to shoot accurately. I would stick with something that had an even porting and preferably smaller holes.
Vias makes something like that and, of course,... Read and maybe even do a variation of this: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/10/rifle-accuracy-system-ras-combo-tuner-and-muzzle-brake/
I use the RAS tuners on target guns but also have the plain brakes on hunting guns. They work. They work.
Maybe of equal or more importance is who is adding the brake to your rifle. If you are a master machinest, go for it. Pick what you want. I say get something in a 32 pitch thread, cut that barrel and thread it perfectly and make sure the brake stops firmly and positively when tightened. Matching size is also an issue with the hole right for the caliber (.308+.020+-) you are shooting. All better be "square" and balanced or you will be playing with the gods of luck with your accuracy.
Since you are dealing with a hunting rifle you may not have the accuracy standards many of us do. In that case you may find squeezing a pop can on the end is workable. Otherwise, I would stay with a balanced one, small and multiple holes and get a quality machinest/gunsmith to do the work.
My take is I like a brake on all my larger hunting rifles. Used to have a Darryl Holland brake on my 375 and another on a 25-06 I had in the hope I could see the hits better. I also hunt with a BOSS equipped 338, 7mm Mag and use a RAS brake on my 260 AI. Have had more and just spent a futile moment looking for one of those Holland brakes I know I have in the "junk" but can't find right now. It was one with the solid bottom so I would not kick up dirt when close to the ground.
BULL. Dirt kicks up with that style. Never noticed a change. Did notice with both of that style I had that neither barrel shot well after adding those brakes. Now the sample for me is only two so it's not statistically significant. My take is the barrel gets pushed down, butt popped up, and the gun gets a bit more difficult to shoot accurately. I would stick with something that had an even porting and preferably smaller holes.
Vias makes something like that and, of course,... Read and maybe even do a variation of this: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/10/rifle-accuracy-system-ras-combo-tuner-and-muzzle-brake/
I use the RAS tuners on target guns but also have the plain brakes on hunting guns. They work. They work.
Maybe of equal or more importance is who is adding the brake to your rifle. If you are a master machinest, go for it. Pick what you want. I say get something in a 32 pitch thread, cut that barrel and thread it perfectly and make sure the brake stops firmly and positively when tightened. Matching size is also an issue with the hole right for the caliber (.308+.020+-) you are shooting. All better be "square" and balanced or you will be playing with the gods of luck with your accuracy.
Since you are dealing with a hunting rifle you may not have the accuracy standards many of us do. In that case you may find squeezing a pop can on the end is workable. Otherwise, I would stay with a balanced one, small and multiple holes and get a quality machinest/gunsmith to do the work.
CaptainMal
Silver $$ Contributor
Saw that Harrels' brake touted while I was writing earlier. Had two of them. They are good except the threads on the two I had were not cut right. In each case they ended up feeling like a "cross thread" as they got a bit binding while tightening. They also were a bit off to butt up flat.
Just sold one on a barrel I had on a Savage 6 Dasher. Told the buyer about the thread issue. He talked about different lath cuts and standards. Noted it was still not right then set up the rifle and beat me in our last shoot using it.
Again - a whole lot depends on who can add it to your rifle and fix any issues that might arise.
Just sold one on a barrel I had on a Savage 6 Dasher. Told the buyer about the thread issue. He talked about different lath cuts and standards. Noted it was still not right then set up the rifle and beat me in our last shoot using it.
Again - a whole lot depends on who can add it to your rifle and fix any issues that might arise.
Ledd Slinger
Silver $$ Contributor
hogpatrol said:
+1. No ports on bottom, will reduce recoil as good or better than any others, and only cost $45. Can't beat Harrel's brakes.
I'm not a fan of brakes for big game hunting rifles, but I recently put a Harrel's Tactical on a 20 Tactical barrel I built for one of my AR-15s. No problems with threading and butted up perfectly flat. Very nice brakes.
You might want to read this post on muzzle brakes,
and how efficient they are.
see info here;
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3877938.0
Tia,
Don
and how efficient they are.
see info here;
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3877938.0
Tia,
Don
Larryh128
Silver $$ Contributor
I've messed around a lot with brakes and generally I like them. The gill brakes are very effective and don't have bottom discharge. They can be made to discharge at ABOUT 15 degrees toward the muzzle. This helps slightly with muzzle blast but be very aware that there is no such thing as a quiet brake. Most of my braked rifles wear radial brakes because I can contour them to match the existing barrel profile and in my eyes look better.
Brakes are going to blow dirt up period regardless of the location of the ports/gills. Just too much gas being displaced not to. Port location is also critical as you can make a barrel do some weird things if the brake isn't clocked properly on a gill brake type. I once made a brake only with ports on the top half of the brake to experiment. It actually pushed the barrel down as it was fired. Talk about a weird feeling.
Brakes are going to blow dirt up period regardless of the location of the ports/gills. Just too much gas being displaced not to. Port location is also critical as you can make a barrel do some weird things if the brake isn't clocked properly on a gill brake type. I once made a brake only with ports on the top half of the brake to experiment. It actually pushed the barrel down as it was fired. Talk about a weird feeling.
Ledd Slinger
Silver $$ Contributor
The discharge ports on the Harrels tactical brakes are actually angled upward to reduce muzzle jump and blowing dirt or snow
www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com 45$ shipped and you won't find a better brake.
R.Morehouse
Gold $$ Contributor
I have a Schrewd (sp) varmint brake on my 300RUM and it works very well.
I offered the gentleman in charge of the test one of my "Muscle" brakes to test but he was too far along in the process to do it. I bought out and took over Jim See of CSR's line of "Muscle" brakes a few years ago. The only difference between my brake and Jims new blast tamer is my ports are angled and his are 90 degrees. It is safe to assume that mine are in the 37%+ for recoil reduction. My brakes are 70-100 depending on the model, free shipping. Great gunsmith/dealer pricing available. All made on a cnc.
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