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Howa 1500 ejector removal

Grimstod

Machinist, Designer, and Shooter.
I have on my desk a Howa 1500. I have worked on these before but this one the pins holding in the ejector plunger and the extractor claw have proved to be stubborn. I have bent three punches now trying to get them out. I don't want to resort to drilling them out. How would you go about removing them?
 
I have on my desk a Howa 1500. I have worked on these before but this one the pins holding in the ejector plunger and the extractor claw have proved to be stubborn. I have bent three punches now trying to get them out. I don't want to resort to drilling them out. How would you go about removing them?
I don't no how good your punches are.ive made punches out of silver steel.hardend and temperd them make sure you have one a snug fit in the hole.a solid surface and a shorty punch works well as a starter as Dave said you shouldn't require any heat really.
 
Grip the bolt body in a soft jaw vise without springy pads. I use pieces of old conveyor belt for general purpose but remove them when I dont want anything to absorb the hammer blows on the punch. Thin aluminum or copper to cover the jaw serrations. Put a piece of sticky note between the bolt and the jaws so you dont have to remove the aluminum marks. Choke it up close to the pin and get it moving with the starter punch.
No heat.
 
The Howa and Weatherby Vanguard ejector and extractor pins are splined on the back end. Take a close look at the pin hole and note the flat that has been machined on the bolt body. They insert the non-splined end of the pin into the flat. The splines seat just under the flat. Drive the pin out from the opposite side using a starter punch.
 
The Howa and Weatherby Vanguard ejector and extractor pins are splined on the back end. Take a close look at the pin hole and note the flat that has been machined on the bolt body. They insert the non-splined end of the pin into the flat. The splines seat just under the flat. Drive the pin out from the opposite side using a starter punch.
Thats the ticket. Had the same problem with 1500 sa. You need a magnifying glass or really good close vision to so it. My gunsmith and I went a bunch of punches before we figured it out. And yes, you'll need a block or vise to hold it steady.
 
I have been trying to get mine removed for the last two years. After many bent punches, Finally, with recommendations from the members I got a starter punch, clamped the bolt in a vise and used a heavy hammer. Wack wack it started moving. Solid surface, good vise, starter punch, good solid hammer. That's it. No heat although good penetrating oil will help.
 
I have been trying to get mine removed for the last two years. After many bent punches, Finally, with recommendations from the members I got a starter punch, clamped the bolt in a vise and used a heavy hammer. Wack wack it started moving. Solid surface, good vise, starter punch, good solid hammer. That's it. No heat although good penetrating oil will help.
^^^^This

If you are not using a starter punch to get the pin moving and you are just using a regular long skinny punch, It will bend before you get it moving.
 
Another thing I see a bit of is trying to drive pins with a wimpy nutcracker hammer. Might as well hit it with your purse.;) Get a set of ball-peen machinist hammers. At least a 6 and 12 oz for starters, they will handle most gun pins. Avoid chicom Harbor Fright junk get good USA made wooden handle ones, . They'll last a lifetime.
 
I like the idea of a starter punch. I just ruder 4. And 8 more 1/16 punches. I use these things a lot.
 
New starter punches arrived. Ill have another Howa bolt to work on later this week so ill see how these improve the process.
 

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