How to remove sizing wax

[BULLET 05]

I use imperial wax when full length resizing. I normally just wipe them down with a rag. Anything you guys do or use?

 

[Kracken McGraw]

https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/a-little-reloading-trick-from-me.4121336/

 

[jds holler]

I use such a small amount that by the time I'm done handling the case it's pretty much gone. Keeps my hands soft and supple. jd

 

[Straightshooter1]

I use imperial wax when full length resizing. I normally just wipe them down with a rag. Anything you guys do or use?

The thing I do for quite a few years now is to simply dry tumble with medium sized rice to removed the Imperial Sizing Die Wax that I use.

 

[Rubberduckie]

https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/a-little-reloading-trick-from-me.4121336/

I adopted this. Works well spray away glass cleaner. Thanks to urbanriflman

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Most people tumble in whatever media. I wet tumble for 15 min no pins with dawn and lemi shine, because thats what I have. I put a little alcohol in a ziplock and roll around if I don't have too many.

 

[Iowa Fox]

My wife and I have been married for sneaking up on 56 years. These days she wipes every round and carefully inspects every one before she drops it in the box , Even if she is scooping them out of the Dillon ejection bin.

 

[Kevin1990]

Recently, I have been using isopropyl alcohol on a rag and wiping the wax off, works great. Then again I use it sparingly so a dry rag alone would probably do it.

 

[1shot]

I lay the sized brass on an old towel and give it about a 2 second spray with brake cleaner, then grab two corners of the towel in each hand and use the hammock method for a few seconds. I've been doing this for years, and see no reason to change.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

 

[PopCharlie]

I rinse the cases in pure acetone after the last sizing operation. I wipe them off using a clean paper towel and a Q-tip inside the neck. Then place them in the loading block upside down to let them dry.

PopCharlie

 

[ShtrRdy]

I've been using a paper towel.

 

[Rwfish]

Rust Oleum Wax and Tar remover. No odor or harsh solvents. Used on a towel to wipe off case as well as in a sonic cleaner.

 

[Dgd6mm]

I use Charmin, it's soft and strong.....Oh, we're talking about brass.

 

[Charlie-NY]

I always found that just using a clean rag was a PITA, and that it left a waxy residue. After reading UR's tip, I started to use the SprayWay cleaner and really liked the results. Lately, I just dump all the freshly sized cases into a vibratory machine with some treated corncob. The brass comes out clean, completely wax free and a bit shinier than when it went in. However, it does take a bit of time to knock the media out of each flash hole. For now, I think the results are worth it.

 

[6BRA]

A jar of acetone...drop them in and it will flash off

 

[SSL]

Back in the '70s I used trichloroethylene, a contact and metal parts degreaser and cleaner that we used in telephony business. Dissolved lube and dried quickly...then it was found to cause cancer - among other things. OOps!

 

[CJ6]

Back in the '70s I used trichloroethylene, a contact and metal parts degreaser and cleaner that we used in telephony business. Dissolved lube and dried quickly...then it was found to cause cancer - among other things. OOps!

That's nasty stuff.....

 

[ASbobcat]

I use imperial wax when full length resizing. I normally just wipe them down with a rag. Anything you guys do or use?

Not all "waxes" are alike. There are "soft" waxes that will not harden over time, like Imperial, and "hard" waxes that do. Like the carnauba in Lee.

I only use Imperial when wildcatting that requires significant change in cartridge dimension. For general resizing I prefer Lee because it is easily removed with burnishing in soft cotton cloth, and it leaves a hard wax coating that retards tarnishing and aids in feeding/extraction.

Harsh chemicals remove all such protective coating, and expose the brass to oxidation. Oxidation is not just unsightly. Oxides of copper and zinc are very abrasive, and are not conducive to ease of feeding/extraction.

Tumbling results in work hardened case mouths, which requires re-annealing. It also removes the protective benefits of the residue inside the cases, which also reduces bullet seating friction. The coefficient of friction between bare copper jackets and bare brass is very high, which increases the chances of jacket deformation from the seating stem.

 

[urbanrifleman]

I adopted this. Works well spray away glass cleaner. Thanks to urbanriflman

Buy that stuff by the case. Works for everything really. Even carpets. Some guys use it as final prep before painting.

Also works on windows of course.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Not all "waxes" are alike. There are "soft" waxes that will not harden over time, like Imperial, and "hard" waxes that do. Like the carnauba in Lee.

I only use Imperial when wildcatting that requires significant change in cartridge dimension. For general resizing I prefer Lee because it is easily removed with burnishing in soft cotton cloth, and it leaves a hard wax coating that retards tarnishing and aids in feeding/extraction.

Harsh chemicals remove all such protective coating, and expose the brass to oxidation. Oxidation is not just unsightly. Oxides of copper and zinc are very abrasive, and are not conducive to ease of feeding/extraction.

Tumbling results in work hardened case mouths, which requires re-annealing. It also removes the protective benefits of the residue inside the cases, which also reduces bullet seating friction. The coefficient of friction between bare copper jackets and bare brass is very high, which increases the chances of jacket deformation from the seating stem.

I’m probably one of the few fans of the Hornady wax in the little tin tub. I just wipe it off with a towel, I feel like it gives the case a little protection also.