jonbearman
I live in new york state,how unfortunate !
What is your favorite carbon cleaner or should I say carbon dissover? I dont want to know about technique so much,I just need to know what you all like the best just for carbon removal.
How to remove carbon from your bore?
- Thread starter jonbearman
- Start date
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Jon,
H2O cleans the carbon right off the tops of pistons in a engine, I suppose you don't want to give your rifle a bath LOL I like to clean my rifles right after the match, if I am able to do that I can get the carbon out with normal solvents and a good brush, if not and it's stubborn I use JB bore paste, along with a old brush and a patch wrapped around the brush loaded with the JB paste. I really want to pick up some Iosso and try that, Forum Boss recommended it a while back.
Wayne.
H2O cleans the carbon right off the tops of pistons in a engine, I suppose you don't want to give your rifle a bath LOL I like to clean my rifles right after the match, if I am able to do that I can get the carbon out with normal solvents and a good brush, if not and it's stubborn I use JB bore paste, along with a old brush and a patch wrapped around the brush loaded with the JB paste. I really want to pick up some Iosso and try that, Forum Boss recommended it a while back.
Wayne.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Recently I did some general cleaning with Pro-Shot Copper Solvent IV, and was impressed with how it worked on powder fouling. Some of the shots were with Reloader 10X. I have also tried CarbOut with a bronze brush and believe that it does a pretty good job. As far as hard carbon in the throat goes, I think that the trick is to not let it build up until brushes and solvents won't touch it, and Iosso is required.
I have been using Boretech Carbon Remover with good results. If done soon after shooting, the carbon is taken out pretty easy. If a longer period or many rounds are fired it takes more patients to soak and scrub with a nylon brush to get it all out.
I use Eliminator first to get out any copper, then I am in no hurry to get things put back in the safe so I run soaked patches, scrub a few times, run a few more soaked patches, and let it sit for a hour or so, then repeat till the patches come out clean.
I use Eliminator first to get out any copper, then I am in no hurry to get things put back in the safe so I run soaked patches, scrub a few times, run a few more soaked patches, and let it sit for a hour or so, then repeat till the patches come out clean.
KG-1 and 10 strokes with a copper brush, breech to muzzle only and rod guide of course.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Some time back, I remember a comment from a barrel manufacturer, something to the effect that he did not recommend a patch over a brush with JB, because it could work like a lap, that the pressure might actually promote more action on the barrel itself than is desirable. One of the reasons that I shy away from abrasives, and use them cautiously is that in producing that bright, shiny bore, one may over smooth it, creating a jacket fouling problem that requires redoing the break in. If I were going to do the job these days, I would lightly oil the bore, and the patch, rub JB into the patch, use my regular jag, take some care at the throat, shot stroke up the bore, and pay particular attention to not spending any more time than necessary at the crown. One thing that I came across, by accident, a while back, was that light gun oil does a better job of floating lapping compound out of the surface of aluminum rings than things like alcohol or water and detergent based cleaning liquids. I think that this is the reason for the Kroil and JB routine. The Kroil suspends what the JB has cut from the bore surface. I suppose that I should add that in the past I have used abrasives in all sorts of ways that I would not repeat today.
A long time ago, benchrest shooter and gunsmith Mickey Coleman wrote that wrapping a little 0000 steel wool around a worn out brush, and using it with plenty of solvent would not hurt a bore and would get it really clean. I have done this, and he is correct. In fact, I would suggest that if properly done, it may be one of the better ways to deal with a badly neglected bore. As with other aggressive methods, be careful at the throat and crown.
A long time ago, benchrest shooter and gunsmith Mickey Coleman wrote that wrapping a little 0000 steel wool around a worn out brush, and using it with plenty of solvent would not hurt a bore and would get it really clean. I have done this, and he is correct. In fact, I would suggest that if properly done, it may be one of the better ways to deal with a badly neglected bore. As with other aggressive methods, be careful at the throat and crown.
Boyd, I had Mickey build my first BR rifle on a Savage action with a used 6 PPC barrel. He's a great guy and he gave me the info on the 0000 steel wool on a brush and it worked super. Then I discovered J-B's and none of my barrels will ever see a brush again.
I'm not "educated", and I know everybody has their own pet process and I respect that. But, I would no more run a brass brush down my bore 10 times and then another 10 times and then another 10 times ... no way.
And I've got a shelf full of chemicals (including GM top cleaner) that have all worked in some way or another but never as good as J-B's. I personally don't believe there is enough "abrasive" in J-B's to polish a postage stamp, but that's my own thoughts.
Some of the harsh chemicals, in my totally unscientific mind, seem to dry out a barrel and possibly even leave it more susceptible to fouling after cleaning. Most of them have fumes that will dissolve your innards -- or at least give me a headache.
Anyway, I know there is a lot of negativity toward J-B's and the "abrasive" properties of it, but I have yet to see any barrel damage, worn lands, etc. from using it and my barrels, some of which have 3,000 rounds through them, still shoot as well as ever unless the throat gets worn too far to properly seat the bullets.
By contrast, I think a brush is constantly wearing against the leading edge of the lands and skipping over the trailing edge -- unless you drag it back down the barrel. A barrel-maker which I have gotten barrels from has told me that more shooters ruin a barrel cleaning it than do by shooting it. I think that's a true statement. So much of this stuff is unquantifiable and we each have to decide the path to take.
In my experience, once a barrel has been properly cleaned with J-B's and Kroil, the fouling is very minimal and I have never seen a sign of copper in a barrel that has been broken in using the J-B's/Kroil process. Most of my shooting is 50 rounds or so between cleanings of fairly hot loads in mid-size cases like 6BR, 30BR and 6PPC. Probably guys who are shooting the big stuff with large loads of powder have different results and that would make sense.
Just rambling thoughts for the "off-season" we suffer through in the Northeast.
I'm not "educated", and I know everybody has their own pet process and I respect that. But, I would no more run a brass brush down my bore 10 times and then another 10 times and then another 10 times ... no way.
And I've got a shelf full of chemicals (including GM top cleaner) that have all worked in some way or another but never as good as J-B's. I personally don't believe there is enough "abrasive" in J-B's to polish a postage stamp, but that's my own thoughts.
Some of the harsh chemicals, in my totally unscientific mind, seem to dry out a barrel and possibly even leave it more susceptible to fouling after cleaning. Most of them have fumes that will dissolve your innards -- or at least give me a headache.
Anyway, I know there is a lot of negativity toward J-B's and the "abrasive" properties of it, but I have yet to see any barrel damage, worn lands, etc. from using it and my barrels, some of which have 3,000 rounds through them, still shoot as well as ever unless the throat gets worn too far to properly seat the bullets.
By contrast, I think a brush is constantly wearing against the leading edge of the lands and skipping over the trailing edge -- unless you drag it back down the barrel. A barrel-maker which I have gotten barrels from has told me that more shooters ruin a barrel cleaning it than do by shooting it. I think that's a true statement. So much of this stuff is unquantifiable and we each have to decide the path to take.
In my experience, once a barrel has been properly cleaned with J-B's and Kroil, the fouling is very minimal and I have never seen a sign of copper in a barrel that has been broken in using the J-B's/Kroil process. Most of my shooting is 50 rounds or so between cleanings of fairly hot loads in mid-size cases like 6BR, 30BR and 6PPC. Probably guys who are shooting the big stuff with large loads of powder have different results and that would make sense.
Just rambling thoughts for the "off-season" we suffer through in the Northeast.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Reed,
It sounds like you have good control of your process. If I may, about the use of bronze brushes, I would refer you to cleaning instructions from Hart.
"We recommend using a brass brush with Hopp's #9 or Shooters Choice as often as possible. In sighting in a rifle or shooting benchrest groups, you should thoroughly brush after every 10-20 shots using a good coated cleaning rod and rod guide. Always leave a cleaner in bore after you are through shooting for the day. This will dissolve cooper fouling left in the barrel. The barrel should then be thoroughly dried out just before shooting.
Do not clean with stainless steel brushes or use abrasive cleaners in the barrels.
If Sweets is used, DO NOT leave in barrel for more than 5 minutes. DO NOT mix sweets with any other cleaner."
In my opinion, the reason that cleaning can be destructive to barrel interiors is lack of proper equipment, and inattention to technique. If a good rod and the best bore guide are used with the best technique, a variety of materials may be used with good success. My answer about abrasives was written with the knowledge that many shooters are sloppy with their cleaning rods, and use cheap bore guides, and are not as careful as you seem to be.
Boyd
It sounds like you have good control of your process. If I may, about the use of bronze brushes, I would refer you to cleaning instructions from Hart.
"We recommend using a brass brush with Hopp's #9 or Shooters Choice as often as possible. In sighting in a rifle or shooting benchrest groups, you should thoroughly brush after every 10-20 shots using a good coated cleaning rod and rod guide. Always leave a cleaner in bore after you are through shooting for the day. This will dissolve cooper fouling left in the barrel. The barrel should then be thoroughly dried out just before shooting.
Do not clean with stainless steel brushes or use abrasive cleaners in the barrels.
If Sweets is used, DO NOT leave in barrel for more than 5 minutes. DO NOT mix sweets with any other cleaner."
In my opinion, the reason that cleaning can be destructive to barrel interiors is lack of proper equipment, and inattention to technique. If a good rod and the best bore guide are used with the best technique, a variety of materials may be used with good success. My answer about abrasives was written with the knowledge that many shooters are sloppy with their cleaning rods, and use cheap bore guides, and are not as careful as you seem to be.
Boyd
James, I certainly cannot argue with the Col. and his years of experience.
Boyd, nor do I argue with the good folks at Hart's.
I wonder, though, if some of their thinking is from the ultra-competitive world of shoot it 700 times and throw it away? Even trusted and knowledgeable gunsmiths and barrel makers are not unanimous on this issue.
And then there's always the guy (whom I won't name for risk of his embarrassment) who regularly wins IBS matches at our range and around the Northeast with rifles that were cleaned sometime last season and not since.
I sure enjoy the exchange of info and ideas on here and I enjoy the search for better accuracy and consistency.
Boyd, nor do I argue with the good folks at Hart's.
I wonder, though, if some of their thinking is from the ultra-competitive world of shoot it 700 times and throw it away? Even trusted and knowledgeable gunsmiths and barrel makers are not unanimous on this issue.
And then there's always the guy (whom I won't name for risk of his embarrassment) who regularly wins IBS matches at our range and around the Northeast with rifles that were cleaned sometime last season and not since.
I sure enjoy the exchange of info and ideas on here and I enjoy the search for better accuracy and consistency.
carburator cleaner, seafoam, GM top engine cleaner if you can get it
Heavies said:
Yep and their straight
will work better on copper than their eliminator.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.