How to finish a laminate stock?

[skeetlee]

I can turn metal with the best of them but wood working isn’t my string suite
I have a laminate stock here from master class stocks that I need to finish. I am looking for some recommendations. much appreciated

 

[338 Mollett]

I think it depends on what look you or your customer wants ,I like the wet shiny look of auto clear.

 

[JackT]

I used Minwax Antique Oil, after coat #4, I was duly impressed. Every time I go to the gun range everybody gives me positive comments.

 

[JFrank]

Check with BC’z on that project, not speaking for him but he’s been incredibly helpful to several members seeking advice.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Dont even touch it just send it over to bc’z

 

[Twdmar]

A polymerized tung oil is a pretty easy finish and cyanoacrylate also works well too.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

You cant screw up auto clear. You will need about 9-12 coats of clear to fill all the pores of the wood. Even if you end up with runs or orange peel, you just sand them smooth and buff to a mirror finish. The skilled guys can just do it quickly and hardly have to sand and buff at all, in other words they can do it and make a profit lol.

 

[joshb]

Check out the bottom of page 31 in my “Do it yourself stockmaking thread.” I just pulled it up from the dead files for you.
The epoxy coating is easy, fast and cheap. If you want to try it, I’m not using the spinner I made. You could borrow it if you promise to send it back when you’re done.
Sending it to Bc’z would get you the best results, tho.

 

[Bc'z]

And I still spend about 3 hours sanding and buffing for that mirror finish.

 

[skeetlee]

On sent


That spin jig is brilliant. I have a rotisserie on the shelf from a gas grill I once bought. If I decide to try this finish myself I may steal your idea. Lol.
Thank you all. I send bzs a pm to see how busy he is. I hope he can help. Wood just isn’t my gig

 

[skeetlee]

Here is a quick question if I do choose to tackle this job myself
This particular rifle is for myself not a customer. I am building a true fclass rig in 22lr. I purchased my stock from masterclass. Alex atMasterclass fitted the adj recoil pad before he shipped the stock to me. If we use auto clear, won’t that build tolerance? I’m worried how that might look ?

 

[Liven The Dream]

This is a good product will take a few coats ! The time you put in, will be the end product .
209-101-014WB
Satin Gloss 14 oz. Brownell's

Mfr Part: 64120

Bc'z is still a great way to go .

 

[JFrank]

Here is a quick question if I do choose to tackle this job myself
This particular rifle is for myself not a customer. I am building a true fclass rig in 22lr. I purchased my stock from masterclass. Alex atMasterclass fitted the adj recoil pad before he shipped the stock to me. If we use auto clear, won’t that build tolerance? I’m worried how that might look ?

It will,
Check this out Dog.
All the time and money invested so far your obviously meticulous and want a great looking stock to be proud of as most fellas would, even the pros like @Dusty Stevens refer to Brett for stock services.
For real ...
J

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I'd do auto clear. When I do a wood stock, I put down a few very light coats first, to seal the wood..followed by two really heavy coats. Let this dry to sand, being careful not to sand through ANYWHERE. Next is filling any pinholes left over..and there will be some. I use a toothpick or tiny touch up brush to dab a small bit of clear into every one of them. Pita, but worth it. Then another coat of clear and sand. It should be looking close at that point. If so, re shoot it, wet sand down to 3000, buff and wax. If you can still see the touched up places, high or low..repeat before final sanding and buffing.
You can manage the buildup at the pad when sanding as well as hanging it so the butt end is higher than the front. Just my 2 cents.
I have good results but I'm sure bc's has forgotten more than I'll ever know about painting.
My saving grace is you can sand out minor imperfections and when you finish buffing itll look great. Just keep everything as straight as possible.

 

[jghoghunter]

This is a good product will take a few coats ! The time you put in, will be the end product .
209-101-014WB
Satin Gloss 14 oz. Brownell's

Mfr Part: 64120

Bc'z is still a great way to go .

This stuff works really well. They use to offer a high gloss that looked like auto clear but was really easy to do.

BZ still a great choice!!

 

[338 Mollett]

Be careful when buffing and using a polish cream you can burn through to bare wood in a heart beat especially on the high points.

 

[hammerjack]

The Custom Gun Oil posted above is super slick riding in the bags.

 

[Bc'z]

This stock was clear 3 times, after being primed twice.
Primed twice, cleared twicebutt pads are a PITA!
You really have to concentrate on getting edge smoothed out during primer and have it as smooth as possible for final coat of clear.

 

[Twdmar]

The pro-custom oil I have used has a slight brown tint to it if that matters for this stock. It's a far easier to finish to apply than a clear coat, cyanoacrylate or epoxy.

 

[Will Henry]

Laminated stocks are just like any other wood stock and are treated the same. I will use one of four products. Tru-0il, Linspeed Oil, Varathane, or epoxy. Tru-oil, which is, I believe, a tung oil base, is the easiest and is easily repaired if damaged. Varathane is a close second. With either of these, I brush on thinned finish until the stock won't take any more. I let it dry for a week. The next coat, also thinned, is sanded in with a 600 grit wet or dry paper and, again, left for a week. The stock is then sanded down to the wood. At this point all pores should be filled and build up of the finish can begin. Usually, a half dozen coats will do.
Epoxy is just a build up and cut back proposition. The important thing will all finishes is to prep the stock well. A smooth stock with no scratches or marks will finish well. The Epoxy finishes are usually more durable. WH