How to best clean action threads?

[Field_2_Fork]

Glued in panda, Terry Leonard stock. I pulled the barrel to test seating depths with various bullets. Two questions:
1. Any suggestions on how to clean the existing thread lube out, without damaging the stock? Seems like any easy task but I'd rather not have solvent splashing all over the stock and March scope.

2. I found what looks like either galling or maybe carbon buildup at the front of the action, where the lugs rotate. The sides of the lugs look fine, and when I put the bolt in and look from the barrel end there doesn't appear to be any actual contact in the area. Does this 'wear' seem normal?

I tried lightly scrubbing it with some bore cleaner and a brass brush, doesn't seem to want to come off.

Gun was built by Clay Spencer in 2010 which leads me to think this is nothing to worry about, but thought I'd ask.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Ray123]

It looks like rust...plastic tape may help mask areas against small liquid splashes. Rust remover wire brush...then A small wire brush, solvent, (WD40) or kroil A thread file used gently, then a wire brush with solvent to clean stunborn areas. I have a "retreading die"1.062" X 16 for a Rem 700 for that very purpose of reparing small thread imperfections, dings, glue, rust, from standarded theraded barrels you want to reinstall...also check with Brownells. The action threads will probably look similar to the barrel when rust sets in, there are liquids to take care of that and convert rust spots left on surface, and anti rust oils and anti seize grease to apply after.

 

[Ccrider]

Plastic detail brush. https://www.harborfreight.com/detail-brush-set-6-piece-69526.html

 

[BoydAllen]

Tooth brush dipped in solvent, something like Butch's. I would pull the scope and rings as a unit. If the rings are Kelblys, do you know the trick to make them slide off easy?

 

[Field_2_Fork]

Tooth brush dipped in solvent, something like Butch's. I would pull the scope and rings as a unit. If the rings are Kelblys, do you know the trick to make them slide off easy?

They are Kelbly rings, definitely don't know of any tricks.

A little apprehensive to pull the scope, I've done it with plenty of hunting rifles, but this gun I'm trying to be extra cautious with - possibly over cautious.

This is my first BR rifle. I'm trying to determine the difference between chambering in the 3 barrels it came with.

 

[Field_2_Fork]

It looks like rust...plastic tape may help mask areas against small liquid splashes. Rust remover wire brush...then A small wire brush, solvent, (WD40) or kroil A thread file used gently, then a wire brush with solvent to clean stunborn areas. I have a "retreading die"1.062" X 16 for a Rem 700 for that very purpose of reparing small thread imperfections, dings, glue, rust, from standarded theraded barrels you want to reinstall...also check with Brownells. The action threads will probably look similar to the barrel when rust sets in, there are liquids to take care of that and convert rust spots left on surface, and anti rust oils and anti seize grease to apply after.

I don't think it's rust, more looks like machining marks, or alligator skin in the throat of a barrel with lots of rounds through it.

 

[acloco]

It looks like rust...plastic tape may help mask areas against small liquid splashes. Rust remover wire brush...then A small wire brush, solvent, (WD40) or kroil A thread file used gently, then a wire brush with solvent to clean stunborn areas. I have a "retreading die"1.062" X 16 for a Rem 700 for that very purpose of reparing small thread imperfections, dings, glue, rust, from standarded theraded barrels you want to reinstall...also check with Brownells. The action threads will probably look similar to the barrel when rust sets in, there are liquids to take care of that and convert rust spots left on surface, and anti rust oils and anti seize grease to apply after.

Agree. Side of the bolt lug in the first picture has the "gator effect" of rust as well.

 

[rayporter]

use a flame to hear the plastic handle on the toothbrush so you can bend it to fit.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

They are Kelbly rings, definitely don't know of any tricks.

A little apprehensive to pull the scope, I've done it with plenty of hunting rifles, but this gun I'm trying to be extra cautious with - possibly over cautious.

But you snapped the barrel off without removing the scope?

 

[Field_2_Fork]

But you snapped the barrel off without removing the scope?

A couple times now, bad idea?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

A couple times now, bad idea?

I dont know many that would. There will be plenty come along that does though im afraid.

 

[Field_2_Fork]

I dont know many that would. There will be plenty come along that does though im afraid.

Good to know, I'll keep that in mind in the future.

Big shout out to @BoydAllen for his time on the phone this afternoon, much appreciated!

 

[jackieschmidt]

I agree with your next to the last sentence in your original post.

 

[Nick Caprinolo]

I wonder if you could just get a dowel and wrap a cloth around. Put some colvent on it and screw in in and out of the action. put some duct tap[e on the stock to keep any solvent from getting on the stock. Make sure the dowel is bit smaller that the threads and the cloth is large enough to tightly screw into the action. I have never done this and it is just a suggestion that I might try if I needed to.

 

[JMayo]

Tooth brush and # 9 go like I'm unscrewing. I don't have to have it dripping .
Qtip with alcohol after.

 

[acloco]

There are metal and plastic brushes manufactured for AR15/AR10's that might help you out.

Nylon Chamber Brushes

www.boretech.com

Bronze/SS Chamber Brushes

Bore Tech's bronze/stainless steel chamber brushes are designed to remove carbon fouling from AR-15/AR-10 chambers. Buy bronze/stainless steel brushes now!

www.boretech.com

 

[DiffEQ]

I've had to do this with some of my actions, and other threaded stuff on machines.

1. Remove the scope, work on the action with it upside down. If you remove the bolt and use an action wrench, you can turn the rifle upside down with the action wrench in a vise so you have access that's not too impossible.
2. Blue masking tape on all exposed stock surfaces anywhere in the area
3. Be sure to wear a NIOSH aromatic carbon rated respirator. The solvent I'm recommending, lacquer thinner, turns your liver and brain into rock with too much exposure. I use an old, crusty cookie sheet underneath it. For blind, tapped holes on machines, I've used a stainless baster that I have to suck out any residual solvent from the hole.
4. Wooden cotton swabs (cannot remember where I got mine)
5. Talk with your dentist and buy (or the dentist will give) old cleaning picks and files, etc and if you're lucky, a mirror or two. I was appalled when I learned these are considered disposable.
   Some of the picks come in a flat spoon shape (tiny, with file teeth on one side). These are amazing when cleaning out thread V's and gunked up checkering. Every time I go in for a cleaning, I ask if they have any I can have or buy.
6. I use toluene or lacquer thinner. Nasty stuff, but I can't recall any finish / glue / thread locker that it won't dissolve.
7. Work in small sections (5-10 threads deep), swab the entire diameter with the solvent, and follow up with the dental pick, using the mirror to see. Be generous with the solvent, but don't drip it all over the place.
8. I'll follow through by hand with a 40 / 45 cal brass pistol brush, working the ID of the action and rotating the brush as I'm going. I tried using a 12ga bronze brush and rods chucked up in a cordless drill once due to laziness and impatience -- what a friggin' mess.
9. Repeat 7 & 8 until I'm satisfied with the cleanliness of the threads.

One tip -- some things need exposure to the solvent to dissolve for easy removal. The best way I have found to do this is to sparingly put solvent on the threads of the male piece (in this case, the barrel) and screw it back in by hand (if you can). Let it sit that way for up to an hour, unscrew it and wipe the gunk out and off.

 

[David101]

For the best solvents try Brake Cleaner or Throttle and carby cleaner a light brush with a tooth brush and a blow out with compressed air. I find that cleans up 99.8% of any gunk glue and other stuff.

 

[divingin]

There are metal and plastic brushes manufactured for AR15/AR10's that might help you out.

Nylon Chamber Brushes

www.boretech.com

Bronze/SS Chamber Brushes

Bore Tech's bronze/stainless steel chamber brushes are designed to remove carbon fouling from AR-15/AR-10 chambers. Buy bronze/stainless steel brushes now!

www.boretech.com

Shotgun brushes, too. If you have an old (no longer used) rifle cleaning rod, you can whack off the handle and use it as a brush shank extender chucked in a drill. Makes scrubbing remote cylindrical things a lot easier.

If you're worried about the stock, tape it off with packing tape (check a hidden area to make sure it won't pull off the finish), and work on the action with the rifle upside-down so any drips fall away from the stock.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

The raceway is broached. Thats tearing caused from the broach that was used. Not the best surface finish but it wont hurt a thing and has been there since day one.