That's the reason I store my Weatherby D'Italia in the original case. No foam.
How not to clean your blued action?
- Thread starter #40Fan
- Start date
Plus
Plus it will do a number on stocks , at least the deep woods off of 40 years ago would...
KMart
Gold $$ Contributor
Remember the old 6-12 Mosquito dope from our early childhood? That stuff would make short work of the finish on a Remington. The urethane finishes held up much better to the 6-12.
My fundamental and very simple understanding of the situation:
Bluing is an oxidizing process using strong basic solutions or process to deposit a coating of black iron oxide on steel - looks sort of very dark bluish black. Other elements might also be combined with the iron oxide.
Various reducing agents, stuff that donates electrons, can dissolve the desired dark bluish black oxide on the steel.
Some acids are strong reducing agents like hydrochloric acid and even a weak HCL solution can do a number on your expensive blued barrel or action. Other common acids like acetic (vinegar) and citric (fruits) are also reducing agents and will do a number on your blue job.
Some acids are strong oxidizing agents (don't go there) like nitric and sulfuric acid - given high concentrations, both will dissolve both bluing and steel like a real quick coating of rust, heat, fizzing.
Common chemicals used for cleaning, like citric acid, also dissolve metals by bonding the metal with other stuff (chelation). Use of citric acid on stainless may make for some protective oxidized coating that could retard additional corrosion - use your stainless salt water fishing gear in the steamy tropics and see it rust.
Having some appreciation for the horrible effects (consequences) of chemical attacks on my blued steel I like to wipe it down with water displacing oils then apply a thin coating of Turtle Wax.
Paper towels have enough abrasive qualities to remove crud and when some instructions suggest using a "soft cloth" to clean an object that means don't use paper towels.
Bluing is an oxidizing process using strong basic solutions or process to deposit a coating of black iron oxide on steel - looks sort of very dark bluish black. Other elements might also be combined with the iron oxide.
Various reducing agents, stuff that donates electrons, can dissolve the desired dark bluish black oxide on the steel.
Some acids are strong reducing agents like hydrochloric acid and even a weak HCL solution can do a number on your expensive blued barrel or action. Other common acids like acetic (vinegar) and citric (fruits) are also reducing agents and will do a number on your blue job.
Some acids are strong oxidizing agents (don't go there) like nitric and sulfuric acid - given high concentrations, both will dissolve both bluing and steel like a real quick coating of rust, heat, fizzing.
Common chemicals used for cleaning, like citric acid, also dissolve metals by bonding the metal with other stuff (chelation). Use of citric acid on stainless may make for some protective oxidized coating that could retard additional corrosion - use your stainless salt water fishing gear in the steamy tropics and see it rust.
Having some appreciation for the horrible effects (consequences) of chemical attacks on my blued steel I like to wipe it down with water displacing oils then apply a thin coating of Turtle Wax.
Paper towels have enough abrasive qualities to remove crud and when some instructions suggest using a "soft cloth" to clean an object that means don't use paper towels.
Last edited:
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
alconox or simple green is all i use.
MSDS are a valuable tool. Looking up the MSDS for simple green shows that among the primary constituents are sodium citrate and citric acid (reducing and chelating agent). Sort of like the horrible consequences of a Lemishine bath. Don't go there. Imagine paying for a pleasing rust bluing job to augment some beautiful European walnut stock (rifles can be art) only to have it compromised or removed by some household cleaning agent like Simple Green. Citric acid is good stuff to promote solubility (chelating effect) desired in cleaning agents (soap).
Bleeding or barfing (HCL) on may also damage a wonderful blue job. I would guess that a blue job including disassembly, cleaning, bluing, reassembly would run about $100. I remember how involved a bluing operation is with all the tanks, hot caustic solution, neutralizing and whatever that justifies a substantial charge ($$). I like stainless that is bead blasted with tiny little glass balls.
Simple Green (color added by a dye) may be used to clean tile floors and dirty fired brass.
Bleeding or barfing (HCL) on may also damage a wonderful blue job. I would guess that a blue job including disassembly, cleaning, bluing, reassembly would run about $100. I remember how involved a bluing operation is with all the tanks, hot caustic solution, neutralizing and whatever that justifies a substantial charge ($$). I like stainless that is bead blasted with tiny little glass balls.
Simple Green (color added by a dye) may be used to clean tile floors and dirty fired brass.
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