How to Anschuets action

[FilippoMo]

I would be interested in instruction on how to thread an Anschuetz action and how to remove the feeding ramp.
Sincerely
Filippo

 

[Bob3700]

Flippo,

I don't think that threading an Anschutz action is a do-it-at-home project. Due to the basic layout of the bolt in the action (off set) you probably want someone who has done this professionally many times.

Would hate to have an expensive Anschutz action ruined.

Bob

 

[LJPeter]

On a 54 single shot, remove the ejector retainer clip on the bottom of the receiver. Remove the ejector and then the feed ramp.

On a 54 repeater, remove the magazine system screws which will release the feed ramp.

Remove the Bolt, trigger, magazine, bolt stop and drive out the two barrel retainer pins from bottom to top. Put the receiver in a heavy vice with padded jaws and with a well fitting brass rod drive the barrel from the receiver. If it wont move using a 3lb hammer I retreat to the 20 ton press.

We thread the 54 Anschutz actions 20tpi on a CNC lathe at about 1200 RPM with light cuts. This gets through all the intruptions in the cut with out breaking inserts.

Good Luck
Loren

 

[FilippoMo]

Thank you for the very clear answers.I can do 20 tpi UNF what is the thread
dept that you suggest.
Sincerely
Filippo

 

[LJPeter]

I go 0.019 to 0.020 deep. I know one builder who uses 28 tpi so he can have even less depth.
Regards
Loren

 

[LongRiflesinc]

I've threaded many a 54's as I used to work for Anschutz at the US Service Center in COS.

Big deal as it doesn't make me an expert, but it does mean I've done quite a few of them.

At my shop all receiver work is now done in a VMC (CNC vertical Milling Center) as it affords a number of advantages not practical with a lathe.

I've always used the 7/8-18 pitch for 54's as its a good middle road between root diameter and thread engagement. Historically it's always worked well. Your biggest challenge will likely be the hardness of the receiver depending on its production period. Some Annies are quite tough at the front ring and rear lug abutments. Most of the newer stuff (last ten years) is quite machinable on the ring.

I would suggest counterboring the thread lead at the ring by about .1875" as it will take some of the mental anguish out of having to thread a barrel tennon right up to the shoulder. I have a rather nice CNC turning center that I use so it's not nearly the daunting challenge that a manual lathe can present for someone who doesn't do this on a daily basis. Be very conservative on your inside diameter though as it will get very close to the root of the 11mm dovetail. Get it too thin and it'll split when the tennon is clammed up against the receiver ring. If this happens it makes the action junk for all practical purposes.

A truncated thread lead is even better IMHO as it avoids the "feather" lead thread that is prone to be chewed on when the tennon is initially engaging the receiver. A truncated thread lead goes from root to crest in a very short span making for more positive initial engagement.

Last, be aware (as mentioned) the receiver ring is not concentric to the bolt bore centerline and just indicating the receiver ring isn't good enough. The bolt centerline must must also be parallel/tangent to the Z axis of the lathe to ensure the bolt face has a right angle relationship to the breech. Side loading a rimfire case is bad ju ju and invites all sorts of nasties when looking to "get small" on paper.

Note that the tennons on factory 54 actions are press fit and it's very possible/probable for the receiver ring to be bell mouthed or tapered slightly. This aggravates the challenge of setup as the taper makes establishing the tangent/concentric relationship with your Z axis a bit of a challenge. It's not very practical in a lathe to use the bolt body as its offset by about 1/16th of an inch. It's a jumprope when attempting to indicate.

Again, this is where a milling center shines if you have the right fixturing to set it up. You can indicate off the bolt bore to establish a tangent relationship with the Z axis and then simply offset the distance between bore/receiver center.

It can certainly be done with manual stuff and I did a pile of them that way, just go into it knowing additional work is required that may not be immediately apparent. Don't let spectator's arrogance ruin your gun!

Hope this helped.

Chad

 

[Robert]

Filippo,

I understand Feinwerkbau and Walther are glueing their rimfire barrels.

Some barrel fitters do same for Anschutz, and rumors says the manufacturer is not far to do same..

FWIW

R.G.C

 

[butchlambert]

+1 Robert
Butch

 

[rayjay]

My first internal threading job was on an Annie 64 receiver. I just chucked it up and had at it. I think I used 22 or 24 TPI so my thread depth was minimal. I then threaded and rechambered the original bbl. This was back when I first got my lathe so it was all for the experience. I did feel a LOT of trepidation as I started the first pass !

About a year's learning later I made an arbor and the outer ring for the front rec ring and trued the threads. There was about .020" at the back end of the rec before trueing and about .003 after. This rec has been used for 22 lr, 22 mag and 17 HM2 and I have an HMR reamer to redo the HM2 bbl when I use up all my hm2 ammo.

At one long range silhouette BR match I competed in 3 classes by changing the bbls. For someone learning to do chambering having a threaded receiver is a big advantage.