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How to adjust scope turrets between clicks without holding over

A lot of the posts for the "Long range load development at 100 yds" thread on the Reloading forum have posted shot-at targets with the POI away from the center dot maybe an inch or so, and some shooters have their scope adjusted so the POI is right in the center on the dot. I've had the same problem not hitting the center dot exactly. I can get the scope reticle right in the middle of the center dot, but can't get the POI exactly on the dot because the target dot is between turret clicks on my scope reticle (so I have to hold over if I want to hit the dot; which of course I don't want to do if tuning). Is there any way to adjust the scope turrets so the reticle is right on the target center dot (and the reticle superimposed on the target dot center is not between turret clicks) without holding over?

Also, it's time I became a $ contributor; doing so by mail today.

Cassidy
 
I prefer to not hit the aiming dot. It destroys it and is harder to aim at. If you keep the aiming dot pristine, you can test you groups better in my opinion.
 
Unless the accuracy of your rifle is capable of putting five shots consistently in one hole, it will be near impossible. I do not like to shoot out the center dot and lose my aiming spot. When tuning, I don't care where shots go. After you find an acceptable load is the time to move the reticule as near center as possible.
 
Erik Cortina said:
I use 1/8 MOA click scopes....

I was gonna suggest that too, at least for the 'scope you use for testing loads.

Keep the aiming dot pristine IMHO; I use a 3/4" black paster with a 2" vertical @ horizontal thin magic marker line drawn across the center. Adjust your scope to keep groups off a minute or more in a grid pattern. Makes aiming consistent but you must be confident not only in your scope tracking for elevation & windage but also in your scope level. The drawn cross hair on the aiming black helps with that.
 
Thanks for the helpful feedback everyone!

Erick - my scope turret has 1/8th MOA clicks as well. If after tuning is completed, if I want to zero the scope right on the dot, I don't know how to do it. No instructions re this matter that came with the NF, and I don't see anything on their website.

Cassidy
 
These targets have two aiming points .
I use them all the time.
They are available (http://accurateshooter.net/targets/targetaccshooter.pdf) on here, just have your local print shop print them up. Use card stock and eliminate the red color, a lot cheaper that way.
John H.
 

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my scope turret has 1/8th MOA clicks as well. If after tuning is completed, if I want to zero the scope right on the dot, I don't know how to do it.

1/8th MOA should move the POI 1/8th of an inch on the target @ 100 yards.

It's possible you may not have a perfect 0 on the target dot, but it should be very close if not exact. If all of your group is within 1/4" dot, I would say your good to go. If all shots are within the rim of the dot, your shooting less than 1/4 MOA.

The turret on the right side of the scope, just go one (1/8) click, Right or Left, what ever way you need to go.

You will also be OK @ 600 yards, but will probably require another adjustment.
 
Cassidy said:
Thanks for the helpful feedback everyone!

Erick - my scope turret has 1/8th MOA clicks as well. If after tuning is completed, if I want to zero the scope right on the dot, I don't know how to do it. No instructions re this matter that came with the NF, and I don't see anything on their website.

Cassidy

Move your scope turret knob until your bullet impacts center of aiming point. Loosen the set screw on the turret knob and lift it up and move it until the zero is "zeroed". Push it back down and tighten the set screw. If this isn't what you are asking, I apologize.
 
Thanks DOS XX, that's basically what I did trying to zero the reticle (250 yds) for purposes of 750-1000 shooting last time on the range. I could not get the reticle to perfect zero; seemed like it kept going back to the click notches on either side of the target. Will need to keep working it to find a way.

Cassidy
 
Cassidy said:
Thanks for the helpful feedback everyone!

Erick - my scope turret has 1/8th MOA clicks as well. If after tuning is completed, if I want to zero the scope right on the dot, I don't know how to do it. No instructions re this matter that came with the NF, and I don't see anything on their website.

Cassidy

You might want to consider spin drift if you are shooting long range but have an absolute zero at 100. Personally my zero is always to the left.

Not sure if you are meaning the adjustment of the scope caps. Basically once your POI is set you undo the allen screw holding the cap on and rotate the cap so that it is now on zero, re-tighten the screw. Done.
 
You are trying to adjust to a point that falls between your clicks. (Yes?) If you Google "scope turret cutaway" and study the few images closely, you will see that there appears to be a small set screw that seems to secure the circle of detents to something else, if there is not a spline that is hidden from view (or if the number of splines is not a factor of the number of detents), it might be possible to re-index the detent mechanism. Now ask me if I would take apart an expensive scope to investigate this first hand.
 
Ok, let's assume this is actually a problem. His gun would have to be a 1/8 MOA gun for it to show up on target, or, his gun is not very accurate and the "flyers" are what's moving the center of the group.
 
I was just having a little fun, trying to figure out how it could be done. Actually, for load development in particular, there is no earthly reason to worry about this sort of thing, since one is looking at group size, shape and location relative to the point of aim compared to the other groups in the target. One of the things that group shooters learn to put up with is the perception that we have "missed" if a group is not well centered in the target. Of course that is because the usual goal in hunting, informal shooting, and score target shooting is to hit what you are aiming at. Another thing, I don't know how many times I have seen someone who is shooting an inch and a half rifle (at 100 yards) trying to adjust his scope to hit exactly where he wants it to be based on the locations of single shots. That is really silly, but I see it all the time during the fall sighting in season. When I am doing load development, I make a point of not changing my scope adjustment during the process, after I adjust it the first time, and I never want it to hit my point of aim exactly.
 
Thanks for the feedback Boyd and Erik. The rifle should be able to shoot tight but it isnt yet - still trying to find the right powder/bullet/primer combo after 306 rounds through this barrel (krieger). Eric is right, there is for sure some confounding of the POI precision (group size) due to the barrel and shooter and wind when trying to hit the target dot by 1/8th MOA turret adjustment - may be moving the turrets clicks within the group size. Last time out (Liberty Hill Best of West Range - Erik you for sure know this range) I zeroed at 250 yds then had some ammo left to plunk and just enjoy myself (that's why I got this rifle). Throughout all of this I could not get - by adjusting the scope turrets (loosing the adjustment screws on the caps, etc) - the impact point to superimpose on the reticle target point, and I thought that a scope this elegant should offer such adjustments. I dont believe I was chasing the POIs. Anyway, will try again after tuning with H4350 and Berger VLD hunting 130s instead of V540 and Scenar 123s (which did not work well with this barrel). The shooter and the wind out at Liberty Hill are always additional factors. I enjoy this stuff and do this for fun. Thanks for your help!

Cassidy

Best Regards,
Craig
 
With 1/8th MOA clicks, how would you ever know, and I mean know, that the average POI is between clicks?

Start down that road, really thinking about it. It gets complicated pretty quickly.

And as soon as you found it, the wind would change and you'd be holding off anyway.

There is slop in the system and the sooner that you accept it, he better off you are.
 
Cassidy said:
Thanks DOS XX, that's basically what I did trying to zero the reticle (250 yds) for purposes of 750-1000 shooting last time on the range. I could not get the reticle to perfect zero; seemed like it kept going back to the click notches on either side of the target. Will need to keep working it to find a way.

Cassidy
That is the purpose of the "notches" Are you really holding that well that you can determine, on paper, that the scope has settled into one of the "notches" either way at 250 yards? Assuming 1/4MOA clicks, you are balancing between two detents so you have 1/8 MOA between the detents which means your groups are shifting .3" either way. You are good, very good......
Scott
 

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