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How the #$%& do I get Armor-Tuff Paint out of the bore of this barrel?

I bought a barrel for an AR-10, paid extra to have it painted FDE in Armor-Tuff (was told it is similar to Cerakote).

There is roughly .250 of the bore from the crown in that has freaking paint on it.

I called the manufacturer, they told me to shoot it, and by the time I have it zero'd the paint will be gone...

WTF

IMG_2093.JPG

My question is, does anyone one know of a way to get a baked on ceramic paint off of the bore without damaging the bore itself?

Thanks,

Josh

edit:

After posting I see that I did not rotate the barrel enough to hide the manufacturers roll mark. I already contacted them about the barrel before posting and they don't seem to care, so oh well.
 
I think their right I don't see it holding up very well to bullets leaving the barrel... With that and normal cleaning I just don't see it staying very long....
 
Aircraft paint stripper might work; never tried it on ceramic paint, but it'll take Parkerizing off if you leave it on long enough...
 
Basf's 360-4 metal cleaner. Have to get it at automotive paint store. Or a body shop that sprays Glasurit paint. It softens factory
e-coat on new body parts enough that they don't need to be scuffed prior to paint.
Destroys poeder coating also. Use with a bronze brush, scrub it out. Be sure to protect the rest of barrel.
FYI master painter of 30 years
 
The manufacturer told you to shoot it so shoot it. If it damages the barrel or doesn't shoot up to you expectations or their claims then raise h@ll.
 
That is some terrible service right there . Maybe they expect you to use bore butter ? Found this info on it...

"ARMOR-TUFF™ provides excellent anti-friction characteristics over typical firearms finishes. We do, however, still recommend a quality lubricant like ULTIMA LUBE II be used on contact surfaces."
 
So my first post was deleted because I mentioned to try a bronze brush or JB bore paste. The reason was " it is not a good idea to attack a crown from the outside" Yes I know that and I never said to do that either.

Put either on a cleaning rod and run it from the chamber out to the muzzle just like cleaning the rifle. Someone must be little on point about crowns.;)
 
OK...... an answer from ANOTHER planet than this one seems to be!

Shoot it?

SHOOT IT????

This sounds like the BS I've gotten from several of the CeraKote (certified) guys...... "It don't even add no thickness!'..."it's as thin as melonite" ..."It's so thin you can't even tell it's been coated!" and etc etc...... as they've LOCKED UP several actions for me. And others that after slobbering with paint THEY WON'T EVEN GO BACK TOGETHER.....

It's so bad that we're setting up our own CeraKoting sauna (no, we won't do contract work)


So, NO! IMO DO NOT "shoot it out" unless you want that muzzle flared open like a Micquelet blunderbuss.....
 
BTW, if it was mine I'd cut it off and redo the entire muzzle......... Barrel steel is soft like peanut butter, dick around with it and you'll waller it out like an old.....um......like an old wheel bearing on a cheap axle.....
 
Try again and give it time to soak.
There is NO resin based coating you can't remove with a solvent.
Other good solvents are more dangerous such as MEK and methylene chloride.
You can strip epoxy if you give the solvent time.
Ask any commercial paint shop. They have to remove coatings all the time.

if acetone takes off whatever paint this stuff is, it aint worth a shit

f'rinstance, acetone won't TOUCH CeraKote. Nor any other solvent I know of
 
The coating on the barrel was so sloppily done that the OD of the barrel at the gas block was 0.753, thanks to the paint/coating.

I literally cannot get the BCM gas block on, unless i wirebrush this coating off.
 

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