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How do you measure the temperature when anneling case necK?

I have set up my mini lathe with my propane torch positioned about an inch or so from the neck and run out the inner blue frame about a half inch from the metal. I have a plate that I rotate between the flame and neck when I want to stop the heating. Now I can remove the case and insert the next.

Can the brass be measured while the flame is still directed to the metal watching the temp rise. I know what temp I want and thetime at that temp.

I'm color blind to a degree I can say I'm not finding the color changes or colors that I think I'm looking for. The work area is dark so Im not dealing with any light interference. I still am having a hard time judging it.

I would really like to be able to determine the temp of the brass at the moment I know its right. Are the laser beam kind accurate? I suppose they would be.

thanks Tom
 
Use Tempilaq, similar to what is seen in this video. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uasv-Pyxu4g)

When using a flame you may run into a problem with the flames heat melting the tempilaq instead of the brass's heat. This can not be avoided.

The infared thermometers are very accurate, but in my experience not very well suited for this application. They do not update the measured temperature quickly enough. Infared thermometers are better suited to stationary heats where you have as long as you need to get a good measurement.

I am an auto mechanic and use a high end infared thermometer fairly regularly. When I first got started annealing I tried to use one, it failed miserably.
 
Gearheadpyro said:
Use Tempilaq, similar to what is seen in this video. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uasv-Pyxu4g)

When using a flame you may run into a problem with the flames heat melting the tempilaq instead of the brass's heat. This can not be avoided.

The infared thermometers are very accurate, but in my experience not very well suited for this application. They do not update the measured temperature quickly enough. Infared thermometers are better suited to stationary heats where you have as long as you need to get a good measurement.

I am an auto mechanic and use a high end infared thermometer fairly regularly. When I first got started annealing I tried to use one, it failed miserably.

thanks for that infomation. I have a Tempilaq for 450 F which I can use for behind the shoulder area and will get an appropriate pen for the neck/shoulder area. I have a shield that i can block the flame from the case when I apply the pen. I'll keep at it.

I'm reloading .220 Rocket which is a blown out .220 Swift and at the price of new Swift brass ($40.00/100 mostly) I need to maximize my usage big time.

Thanks again.
 
when the neck turns red chunk it into water then go again.this is what I do.but keeping it turning is the key thing to do.this will give you a consistent temp.and for me a drill works better.all I did was make a holder out of solid stock kind of like a bit shuck for different bits.the case fits just right.then I just turn the case fast enough to heat it up.when red I chunck it.but this is just what I do.
 

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