How do you measure all parts of your resized cases? Gauges?

[greywolf]

I've got on LE Wilson case gauge for my 6.5 Grendel, but need to get a case gauge for my .223, .308, 6.8, .30-06, and 6.5x55 rifles.

I know Wilson, Lyman, and Dillon make case gauges (where you can just drop the case or loaded round in to check for proper size, shoulder location, etc.) them (there may be a few others).

Was wondering what is the most accurate in measuring/determining overall length, shoulder location, etc. I just want to be able to drop a cartridge in after I resize and make sure it is in spec for my rifle so I don't end up loading a bunch of rounds only to find out the shoulder is too far forward or back, etc. This is for a 7.62 LaRue OBR, a 5.56 AR-15, a 6.8x43 AR - I've also got a .30-06 bolt gun and 6.5x55 Swede bolt gun. But I'm most concerned with the semi-autos.

I've heard of other ways (the Hornady Comparator) but honestly don't really understand how exactly it works.

Reason I ask this is that I had problems with the shoulder on my .300-221 and .300 AAC BLK being pushed back too far on some recent reloads (don't know how that happened - must have been too aggressive in tightening down the locking ring on the die) and as a result the primer didn't even get dented by the firing pin and the bolt/extractor wouldn't even grip the rim.

 

[GermanS1]

GW, this article might be useful to you.
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/03/reloading-measuring-case.html

 

[bozo699]

greywolf,
Anything German suggests is going to work and work right, I have another tool and method I think will be worth checking out. I bought this tool a couple of weeks ago and it has made die set up for shoulder bump a snap. It will do most all cartridges, fast, easy, and ACCURATE. It's called Innovative Technologies Head space Gauge and here's the link, hope it helps. http://www.larrywillis.com/
Wayne.

 

[greywolf]

Bozo, will that tool pretty much do it all? Measure case length, overall length, proper shoulder bump, diameter, etc.? I do have calipers, but I'm wondering that if I DO end up getting this item, will I need to also then get a bullet comparator, bump gauges, etc. as well?

 

[RonAKA]

This may or may not be a solution for you depending on what dies you have. I just use my Forster Bushing/Bump die with the bushing removed as the gauge to measure shoulder to base, or shoulder bump. Unsized or sized cases fit freely into the die and sit solid against the shoulder.

 

[bozo699]

Bozo, will that tool pretty much do it all? Measure case length, overall length, proper shoulder bump, diameter, etc.? I do have calipers, but I'm wondering that if I DO end up getting this item, will I need to also then get a bullet comparator, bump gauges, etc. as well?

greywolf,
I have only used it as my shoulder bump gauge, It's not a do all tool but according to the instructions on the link I gave you, it can be used for c.o.a.l , bullet ogive measurement and maybe more. I think if you only used it as a shoulder bump gauge it would well be worth the money. Once you get the hang of it,it's kind of a no brainer tool ( real easy to use)
Caliper blade tools for shoulder bump can be very frustrating,
you have to hold everything just right (hold your breath) and maybe you can measure the same case twice in a row with the same measurement ???, Redding instant indicators are kind of a do all tool but there cartridge specific and the same price basically as this tool. There are many tools on the market that will do this job for you, and I have most of them and for me, and for the short time I have used it my vote go's to the Larry Willis tool, I would like to get Germans take on it. Since I started spouting off about the tool a few days ago there are several topics on it I think there is a thread on it on the reloading section called the Larry Willis tool?
Hope this helps
Wayne.

 

[GermanS1]

Wayne, Larry's tool seems very well designed but I haven't used one and therefore can't offer any direct thoughts. The fact that you're satisfied with it says a lot to me though as I know you're a careful and thoughtful reloader.

 

[greywolf]

Thank you very much for the information. I went ahead and ordered one and will post my observations soon. I have many different calibers and want to do much better at my reloading.

Thanks to German as well - your site and blog is something I'll be reading a LOT now.

 

[bozo699]

greywolf,
There are not a lot of instructions with the tool, although it is fairly self explanatory, Larry is a nice guy and if you have any questions he would answer them for you I am sure, I will help you as well if you need it. The two screws you adjust where you want it to measure off the datum line are fine threaded, one locks the other down, don't over tighten it! I don't think it is overly important where you set up, I just set it up somewhere in the middle of the datum point (shoulder) when you stick your case in the tool rotate it untill you get your lowest measurement then zero the tool (push a button)
recheck a couple of times ( on a case fired from your rifle) Then set your die up , resize the case and recheck on the tool if you have achived no shoulder bump screw your die down a little ( a little!) recheck and continue untill you get a negative measurement on your gauge, it should read say -.001, that means you have bumped your shoulder .001 continue to adjust your die until you get the desired shoulder bump, I like about .001 I used to just do my shoulder bump by the feel of the bolt closing ( not much science there) After just a few days I feel this is one of my most important tools on my bench. I am a tool guy,I like nice tools to make your job easier and better,so I buy a lot of them some work like you want and some don't, hope you enjoy your new purchase call me if you need any help
Wayne.

 

[greywolf]

Thank you for the help and explanation. I'm eagerly anticipating this tool. It has been a while since I've reloaded and looking back I've not done a lot of things "right" - I guess I got lucky most of the time, though most of my shooting has been 200 yards and under.

When I was reloading for my .30-06 prior to my hunting safari in Africa I got a 5-shot group at 200 yards of 1.38" with my Tikka 695 and Nosler partitions - and they performed wonderfully while in Africa on all the game I took.

But . . . . for anything past 200 yards I know I'm going to need to get better at reloading.

 

[moosetracker]

I've been using Larry Willis' tool for about 18 months and it works perfectly for both bump resizing and OAL measurement on the ogive.

 

[bigedp51]

Reason I ask this is that I had problems with the shoulder on my .300-221 and .300 AAC BLK being pushed back too far on some recent reloads (don't know how that happened - must have been too aggressive in tightening down the locking ring on the die) and as a result the primer didn't even get dented by the firing pin and the bolt/extractor wouldn't even grip the rim.

I do not own any custom rifles like the .300-221 or .300 AAC, "BUT" what you are describing is a overly long headspaced chamber or a resizing die that is too short or both. You are talking about pushing the shoulder of the case back .050 or more to prevent the firing pin from striking the primer. Is this something normal with custom chambers and reloading dies?

 

[greywolf]

Well, I had originally sized the rounds for my .300-221 and they were too tight - they would fire but not extract, ripping the rim and requiring a lot of pounding with a cleaning rod. I sent it to the maker and he rechambered to the .300 BLK (and found out in the process he sized things too tightly originally on the .300-221.) But apparently my rezied cases for the original .300-221 loads were bumped back too far and so now in combination with the new .300 BLK chamber it was too much.

Reason I ask this is that I had problems with the shoulder on my .300-221 and .300 AAC BLK being pushed back too far on some recent reloads (don't know how that happened - must have been too aggressive in tightening down the locking ring on the die) and as a result the primer didn't even get dented by the firing pin and the bolt/extractor wouldn't even grip the rim.

I do not own any custom rifles like the .300-221 or .300 AAC, "BUT" what you are describing is a overly long headspaced chamber or a resizing die that is too short or both. You are talking about pushing the shoulder of the case back .050 or more to prevent the firing pin from striking the primer. Is this something normal with custom chambers and reloading dies?

 

[RJinTexas]

1+ for Innovated Technolegy's head space gauge if used correctly it fool proof.

RJ