How do you lube your brass?

[dantiff2]

I am specifically curious about those who do large quantities of brass at one time. Such as, reloading with a progressive press.

I have no problem with how I work my small batches for bolt guns. Usually they are no more than 100 rounds. What I'm looking for are maybe some better examples of how to handle several hundred at one time. A more streamlined approach if you will. If I am using a FL die. I will keep three fingers on my left hand coated with a sufficient amount of imperial wax and roll the body of the case around with these fingers applying enough lube to get the job done. Then I push the mouth of the case over a brush that is coated with a dry neck lube powder to handle the inside portion of the neck. This all works perfectly fine and has for years. Now I am loading for a semi and these methods are very limiting. I have thought about buying a spray on lube. I guess you have to lay all the brass on a towel? I hate the thought of spraying an aerosol in the house so that is another deterrent.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[amlevin]

I used to fill a gallon sized zip lock bag with brass, spray some lanolin based case lube inside, and mix, mix, mix.

Worked fine but left me with not just sticky cartridges but often with powder clumps stuck in the necks.

Today I lay out all my previously cleaned brass on a cookie sheet and give it a light spray of Hornady One-Shot. It works great if all the cases are oriented with the necks facing one way and you spray so that some of the On-Shot enters the neck area. One quick spray, shake the cookie sheet to roll the cases into new position, another quick spray, and then let sit and dry.

First, not much spray is needed. Second, the 'sitting process' is essential as the lube is designed to re-distribute itself on the case, and when dry it only lubes, not collect powder or make a mess of things that touch it.

Since I started using the One-Shot (properly) no stuck cases, no need to clean after loading and less time needed in the entire process. RCBS also offers a similar product which I use when the One-Shot isn't on a local shelf.


FWIW, I first de-prime all my brass and then tumble in SS pin media until every part of the case is clean and sparkly. When loaded the finished cartridges look and feel just like they came out of a factory filled box.

 

[searcher]

If using the Hornady 1-Shot, do as amlevin says and let the lube dry as if you size right after spraying, you stand a VERY good chance of getting a case stuck in yOur die.

 

[asauer]

I have just started using the liquid lanolin and red bottle of heet method- 1:10+ ratio in a spray bottle.
I'm still on the fence about it- it sure saves a lot of time to simply stand up all my cases and spray them, then come back ten minutes later once they're dry.
The bad is as said above- they're greasy little boogers. I think I'll try heet and lee sizing lube mixed together since it drys to the touch mostly.

 

[savagedasher]

I use nothing but Forster case lube on a rag if the cases have carbon on the neck. if no carbon or a small amount I put on with my finger. It doesn't have built up like some do. No mess from being sprayed.
Larry

 

[gotcha]

With my progressive I use the Hornady one shot also. (you could spray in your garage if concerned about fumes) Load cases in 50 round trays, Agitate spray can for one or two minutes, spray at 45 degree angle (from back to front), turn tray 180 degrees, spray again, let dry for five minutes. (longer in frigid temperatures) .......... Good idea to spray inside the die for 1st case and also observe same drying time. I've NEVER stuck a case this way. Had a few problems until I started this protocol.

 

[Mulligan]

The only rifle ammo I have loaded on a progressive press is .223
It was all loaded for service rifle competition with 77 gr. SMK. We use one-shot in the 50 round block like stated earlier, resized, cleaned in a brass tumbler, trimmed and then loaded. Works very well.
CW

 

[Scott Harris]

Hornady One Shot with the Sinclair Lube Rack: http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/case-preparation/case-lube/sinclair-lube-rack-prod38783.aspx

Takes 5-10 minutes to lube 500 cases. Done it this way for years with a Dillon 550....no stuck cases.

 

[dantiff2]

Thanks for all the replies

I'll give the one shot a try. Ideally, I don't want to be tumbling all these brass all of the time either. I will be using a brass catcher on the rifle so I'm not worried about dirty brass off the range. Do you find the need to clean the residue off after sizing?

Dan

 

[chkunz]

I have a Thumblers Tumbler Model B. I use a large coffee can, put a bead of lube on the inside of the can, throw in the brass and tumble for about five minutes and the brass is evenly lubed ready to size.

 

[BenPerfected]

Hornady One Shot with the Sinclair Lube Rack: http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/case-preparation/case-lube/sinclair-lube-rack-prod38783.aspx

Takes 5-10 minutes to lube 500 cases. Done it this way for years with a Dillon 550....no stuck cases.

Exactly what I do, the Sinclair lube racks are awesome.

 

[Scott Harris]

Thanks for all the replies

I'll give the one shot a try. Ideally, I don't want to be tumbling all these brass all of the time either. I will be using a brass catcher on the rifle so I'm not worried about dirty brass off the range. Do you find the need to clean the residue off after sizing?

Dan

You don't need to clean the lube from a function perspective. But I do wipe it off as it comes out the press. Just use a shop rag and give it a few twists....all that is required. I certainly would not tumble loaded ammunition!

 

[Rpbump]

Dillon Case Lube

Rpbump

 

[rduckwor]

PAM No-Stick spray and a 1 gallon zip lock bag.

RMD

 

[BillPa]

Imperial on a RCBS pad. Roll, size, repeat.

 

[DR1586]

I use a wide plastic pan (like Tupperware) and lay out a layere of brass. I spray a light coat of case lube (I've used multiple brands) and then shake the pan a little to move the brass around. I add another layer and repeat the process. Once the pan is full, I let it dry for at least 20 minutes with the current lube I use. I usually do my 223 brass in batches of 500-1000 and this method has served me well. Some may cringe at this, but this brass is fed through my gas guns, so nothing I do to it is nearly as bad as what the guns do to it.

The biggest thing is to not overdo it with the case lube. Too much will cause dents in the shoulder. I also wash and tumble my brass each time. Not sure I need to, but shinny brass is much easier to find and it helps me cut down on lost brass.

 

[LHSmith]

The instructions on the can say to wipe each case and the remaining lubricant after sizing.
FWIW after using One Shot, it has several drawbacks that I don't care for : 1/ the smell esp. for those with breathing problems 2/ I don't like contaminating the carbon layer inside of the case necks esp. since it is difficult to get an even coating using a spray 3/ the lubricity just isn't there like other products which is why there is often threads on this site complaining about "stuck cases in dies" while using One Shot. Perhaps those that favor it are more judicious in applying the product, but I could never get comfortable that I had got an even coating on the outside of each case.

 

[Warren Dean]

Imperial on a RCBS pad. Roll, size, repeat.

And I thought I was the only one that did that.

 

[M99]

I use Hornady One Shot as well, after trying various other ways as well as my own Lanolin / Alcohol mix. Set them in a loading try and spray as advised on the can. Wait a couple minutes then size. I have never had a stuck case using that method. After the rounds are loaded, I do come back with pure alcohol and wipe them down though. The One Shot does leave a slight residue that bothers me.

 

[thefitter]

I guess I'm the only one that cleans after sizing. I use a spray lube on cases standing in a loading rack, FL size then SS tumble, after drying I size the necks in a LCD. This works for me because the LCD uses no lube.