I had a Remington 700 re barreled and the smith replaced the recoil lug and said the bedding was fine. It is changing point of impact and shooting two in one hole and one out. There is no glass or pillars. What do you think?
How do You Know When the Bedding is not Right?
- Thread starter centershot
- Start date
Picture of "bedding"? What kind of stock? Generally, if there is no glass or pillars, I do not consider that the action has been bedding, and factory "bedding" is not ever up to my standard. I know that some shoot chasis and bedding block stocks without bedding them, but particularly for factory actions that may have slight warpage, I disagree with this practice unless your are totally pleased with your targets. Essentially you never know what you are leaving on the table.
Cut a sheet of paper from card stock, wrap it around the barrel, and then try to move it down the barrel channel. If it binds before you reach the receiver, you have found your problem.
I have had with with actions I bedded, but did not create pillars. Over time screw tension on the action crushed the wood beneath the action and the barrel began touching somewhere inside the barrel channel of the stock. Any contact in the barrel channel will result in odd ball flingers.
This is an extreme example
This rifle was built in the 1950's and according to the practice of the time, the barrel was fully inletted into the barrel channel.
bedded the action and free floated the barrel, and it shot round groups. Good enough for a hunting rifle.
Either that, or you are flinching. Do not dismiss this as a source. Until you are hooked up to one of those Trace Devices you have absolutely no idea what you are doing after trigger release. When I see an 11 OC shot on target, that's my flinch again.
I have had with with actions I bedded, but did not create pillars. Over time screw tension on the action crushed the wood beneath the action and the barrel began touching somewhere inside the barrel channel of the stock. Any contact in the barrel channel will result in odd ball flingers.
This is an extreme example
This rifle was built in the 1950's and according to the practice of the time, the barrel was fully inletted into the barrel channel.
bedded the action and free floated the barrel, and it shot round groups. Good enough for a hunting rifle.
Either that, or you are flinching. Do not dismiss this as a source. Until you are hooked up to one of those Trace Devices you have absolutely no idea what you are doing after trigger release. When I see an 11 OC shot on target, that's my flinch again.
You now know what the Smiths definition of FINE is!
If you can...
Place the rifle forend in a vise (pad it, but keep it rigid) and position an indicator on the top of the barrel towards the muzzle.
Break the action screws loose/re-torque them individually and check for movement.
In theory, if the receiver is properly stress-free bedded action screw torque will not cause movement of the action in the bedding (and thus the barrel). If the action is "bending" as you vary torque you'll see it with the indicator.
Place the rifle forend in a vise (pad it, but keep it rigid) and position an indicator on the top of the barrel towards the muzzle.
Break the action screws loose/re-torque them individually and check for movement.
In theory, if the receiver is properly stress-free bedded action screw torque will not cause movement of the action in the bedding (and thus the barrel). If the action is "bending" as you vary torque you'll see it with the indicator.
Before you go re bedding, try using sandpaper on the lug to relieve the bottom front and sides of the lug and also to break the corners. Or a scraper to do it in the current bedding in the stock. When bedding you tape those areas off anyway, you only want the back touching. If the bottom especially is touching and your torqueing the screws down your butting stress into the works
I've used Plastigauge to check the bedding on a factory Browning Pro that I used to own. Found it had about 0.003" gap between the bedding and the action. Probably due to shrinkage after the bedding material cured.
Typically used to measure bearing clearances in engine rebuilds: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...en-plastigauge/cle0/mpg1?q=plasti+guage&pos=1
Typically used to measure bearing clearances in engine rebuilds: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...en-plastigauge/cle0/mpg1?q=plasti+guage&pos=1
Thanks for all of the input! I agree that factory bedding is junk. I will most likely drill out the stock and pillar bed it. If i would glass bed it, might as well go all of the way with pillars. Think I have enough Devcon left to do one more job.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Gotta be bedded. Not bedded is never fine.
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
A good bedding job insures that the barreled action is not placed in deflection, (bending the action), as it is pulled down into the stock.There is a way to check bedding at the range.
zero your rifle With a three shot group. Then loosen one of the hold down screws. 1/2 turn should be fine.
Then shoot anther three shot group with the same load.
If there is an appreciable change in the point of impact, your bedding is not “perfect”.
This occurs because the scope is mounted on the top of the action, and any deflection, no matter how small, will change the scope and barrel‘s relation with each other.
Doing this will help you understand the concept of the glued in action.
zero your rifle With a three shot group. Then loosen one of the hold down screws. 1/2 turn should be fine.
Then shoot anther three shot group with the same load.
If there is an appreciable change in the point of impact, your bedding is not “perfect”.
This occurs because the scope is mounted on the top of the action, and any deflection, no matter how small, will change the scope and barrel‘s relation with each other.
Doing this will help you understand the concept of the glued in action.
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