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How do you choose "the right powder"

So with all the choices out there today, how do you choose the one for you. What are your most important criteria. I am testing a lot and moving beyond what I learned from dad. I am looking at criteria or how you choose.
1. Velosity
2. Case fill
3. Powder form flake ball, extrusion
4. Muzzle flash or none
5. Clean/dirty
6. Temprature stability
7. Cost
8. Versitile-works in many loadings.
9. Avalibility- added from post below

Cost is intresting to me because trail boss is super cool and useful, but by weight more expensive than most others considering how much less you get in a bottle.

Do you have powders that dont fit your criteria but are so good in a certain area that you use it anyway.

I ask because I see "what powder should I use in my xxx" and I want to see behind the big green curtain.
 
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First, you must set down parameters for what the purpose of the rifle is. Is it for hunting, informal target shooting, formal target shooting and if so, what discipline? Then you build a rifle specifically for that purpose. That purpose often determines what cartridge or bullet(s) will be used to BEST suit it's intended use. Then, once you have decided on the aforementioned criteria, the powder selection is trimmed to a very manageable list. I know this sounds like I am avoiding the answer>>>>in reality, I am not. EXAMPLE: I wanted to build an F-Open rifle for long-range. I had used several cartridges in the past that "worked", however, none "worked" really well. I chose a .300WSM to shoot 215 Hybrids. That narrows the field of powders down to a short list. H4831sc, RL-23, Viht N160 and N560. These would definitely be the best powders for that cartridge with that bullet. Could other powders be used? Of course>>>>but would any exceed the capabilities of those powders>>>not really. That is how I decide on which powder(s) to use..
 
For me, it starts like this:

1. Determine specific intended shooting goal(s).
2. Find the list of powders that can work with my particular cartridge and bullet.
3. From #2, pick the powder(s) that have the specs that will perform best in the particular gun (barrel length often being a key factor) to help get me to my intended goals.

Depending on where one lives, availability might be a key factor.

I'd say that the goal(s) one sets will determine just which of those things you've listed will be applicable and which will have priority over the other.
 
Depending on what cartridge and out of which gun together with what you expect to do with your loads you go and look at as many load manuals as you can access.

I pick the top tier powders that I have on hand that are listed in the data I can survey. These are the powders that produce top or decent velocity. Any advice I can get from forums such as this one also directs me to concentrate on certain powders on that list first. Primer recommendations also factor into the mix from the internet.

Bullet construction also factors in .... weight, length etc as it relates to rifling twist.

Three44s
 
For me, it starts like this:

1. Determine specific intended shooting goal(s).
2. Find the list of powders that can work with my particular cartridge and bullet.
3. From #2, pick the powder(s) that have the specs that will perform best in the particular gun (barrel length often being a key factor) to help get me to my intended goals.

Depending on where one lives, availability might be a key factor.

I'd say that the goal(s) one sets will determine just which of those things you've listed will be applicable and which will have priority over the other.

I think I would be one of the general shooters here and have the firearm I intend to reload for. In my particular case I inherited a few. I have been reloading for my 9mm and I was taken off guard by how much muzzle flash power pistol had. I did not even know it would be an issue until I was testing and had never experienced anything like it other than a max power load in a stubby 357. Now that I look back it's easily seen in the 9mm+p videos on Jonnys reloading bench. Siloette, unique, and tightgroup dont flash like power pistol and the other stats looked so good. Flash is not something I have ever seen in any information I have seen on each powders. I am looking at getting a book proellant profiles to see if its discussed there.
 
Safety first.

Which powder can give you the highest case fill, while still giving safe pressures at your desired velocity - in the end the velocity is basically what determines your accuracy if all other variables are the same.

Almost all powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers will have loading data for a range of calibres and bullets.

If you're lazy - you are probably not the first person with the particular calibre/rifle and you should quickly pick up on forums what others use.
 
For center fire rifles i pick a powder by case fill.. i want a powder that fills the case close to the neck shoulder junction.. and gives me the speed im looking for with a paticular bullet..
 
All your parameters make sense but I feel availability should not be the last one it doesn’t matter how good the powder is if you can’t get it
 
Look at the reloading manual for your cartridge and bullet weight, and hopefully a barrel length close to what you are loading for. Choose a few that have the highest velocity with the least pressure. To me this speaks of efficiency in this combination of gun and components. Do the usual test with OCW. My mentor taught me this years ago and it still works for me.
 
To me the correct powder is the one that gives you the best accuracy. The method I have used is to bring 3 powders in the right burn rate to the range. 3 shot groups on a horizontal line target. In the smaller cases .2 increments in powder and cover about 1.5 grains. I look for 2 things. I want to see consistent poi on target, whether the groups form the classic sine wave pattern, slowly climb the target, or remain flat. I do not want to see large poi shifts or erratic poi from one charge to the next. The other is I want to seen a trend. Groups should slowly shrink then start to open up again. I do not want to see random good groups mixed in with large groups. I have had good luck picking what components to use by watching poi on target. You can also see it in long range ladders once you have shot enough and know what to look for in them.
 
I have been loading for 40 years and most of that time I have been on a pretty tight budget so could not purchase a number of powders and bullets to try. Here is the poor mans way of choosing a powder that I use. Go to the Sierra loading manual look up the cartridge choose the bullet weight that I intend to use and then look to see which powders they list for their suggested accuracy and hunting loads. 99% of the time they have been spot on with the powder and usually with the charge of powder. Sometimes I have had to fool with different primers and bullet seating depth to wring out the best accuracy but the powder was spot on.
 
1. Powders of approximate burning rate that are correct for the bore diameter vs chamber volume. Maybe 10 different powders.

2. Powders that have the most desirable case fill at maximum pressure. Maybe 3 powders.

3. Powders that exhibit the greatest grouping precision. Maybe 1 powder.

If none of that works I throw the barrel away.
 
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http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/
You mention Trail Boss, it's to bulky for a 9 MM case, read on it's intended use
The Hodgdon site doesn't list Unique. But, in my testing with a pistol with a 5" BBl. Unique gave the best load density, and best accuracy with both 122 & 147 powder coated bullets.
 
Pick a bullet first. Then I do what-if searches with QuickLoad.
Highest velocity at SAAMI max PSI, with 100-104% case fill, and lowest muzzle pressure for barrel length.

When/if the field results of this actually align with QL predictions, and development went well, I will need no other powders there. So then I buy enough in-lot for the life of a couple barrels.
I make sure I have enough of everything in-lot for a couple barrels.

I don't care about temperature stability as I keep field ammo at same temperatures regardless of season.
I don't care about clean burning as I prefoul bores, coat bullets, and reset bores after every use.
I don't care about powder metering as I weigh charges.

I can sway the outcome to pretty much any desire, while filling out a reamer print.
That is, if replacing a barrel.
And here, and always, it starts with a bullet.
 
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For center fire rifles i pick a powder by case fill.. i want a powder that fills the case close to the neck shoulder junction.. and gives me the speed im looking for with a paticular bullet..
Just because iam new and researching, how does one measure case volume correctly? This would make since to me as iam researching powders and there are several that have been used with success but after putting the top four in a shopping "cart" I thought well that's an expensive experimen a d went back to reading.
 
Just because iam new and researching, how does one measure case volume correctly?

Fill the case with H2O (water) up to level with the mouth and weigh. Of course it's tricky trying to weigh on a balance scale, so I've used an Frankford Arsenal electronic scale (like this) to do it. Of course, you'll want to plug the primer pocket (I use a spent primer inserted upside-down). And it can be a little tricky getting the water lever at the mouth, but using the edge of a paper towel to wick the water to the proper level works quite well.
 
Just because iam new and researching, how does one measure case volume correctly? This would make since to me as iam researching powders and there are several that have been used with success but after putting the top four in a shopping "cart" I thought well that's an expensive experimen a d went back to reading.
If you have QL it will tell you case fill. If you want to find it yourself you weigh it, fill the case with water and re-weigh it and do the math for volume.
If your new you may also want to look at percentages for burn. Some powders do not fully burn in the barrel length.
 
Well this is how new iam- I never knew the powder continued to burn in or down the barrell!!! I thought the entire fire/burning/gas explosion happened within the shell casing? Another google search and more over my head info. Sorry to de rail topic
 
Well this is how new iam- I never knew the powder continued to burn in or down the barrell!!! I thought the entire fire/burning/gas explosion happened within the shell casing? Another google search and more over my head info. Sorry to de rail topic
You need to look at burn rate. Some powders like bullseye and tightgroup act almost as you imagined. Magnum powders are slower and depending on your barrel length will not finish burning at the muzzle. Crimp primer and more can effect this.
 
I assume there are pros and cons to the rate? Or is it strictly a matter of best performance ? Meaning one may say give best velocities but foul the barrel or I dunno just have heard guys say some are dirtier lol. Man theres alot to a hand loaded shell
 

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