How do you chamfer your case necks?

[rain164845]

Inside and outside? Outside is of particular interest to me because my Wilson trimmer leaves a sharp edge that surely reduces chamber clearance.
Thanks again!

P.S. I am thinking about one of these: https://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=2055&zenid=r73p8pm3jdpptg5tjrqacfstu4

 

[Steve Blair]

My Giraud trimmer trims and chamfers, inside and outside, in one pass. When using a conventional trimmer, chamfer both the inside and outside for the reason you already noted.

 

[ridgeway]

K&M VLD chamfer tool for the inside and a simple RCBS tool to chamfer the outside.

 

[BoydAllen]

Yes, I chamfer the inside, and deburr the outside. Although I have several tools, I use the old "torpedo" style double ended Wilson tool for the outside, and an old wooden handled Lyman, with a smaller angle for the inside. If I am doing it for benchrest cases, I follow up by scraping the burr off that can happen at the bottom of the chamfer. Years back, I learned how to do this by choking up on a knife blade, and using the tip to reach down the neck so that the edge is almost parallel to the inside of the neck. It does a good job, but it is easier to show someone how I do it than it is to describe it.

 

[amlevin]

I added a 3-way cutter with carbide cutter head to my RCBS Trimmer II lathe style trimmer. Even still use the old collets.

This lets me trim, chamfer, and de-burr in one step and use the extra money a giraud would set me back for purchasing components 8)

Since I trim after every shooting as part of the inspection process, it only takes one or two turns of the handle and I have a nice square case mouth every time I load. Chamfer and de-burring is nice and even all around the case mouth.

 

[artbosco]

Inside and outside? Outside is of particular interest to me because my Wilson trimmer leaves a sharp edge that surely reduces chamber clearance.
Thanks again!
P.S. I am thinking about one of these: https://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=2055&zenid=r73p8pm3jdpptg5tjrqacfstu4

Yes, I chamfer and deburr using the RCBS rocket shaped tool.

The secret to preventing sharp edges is light pressure when pushing down on the mouth of the case. One or Two complete turns is sufficient with your tool of choice.

Remember, light pressure, even if you're using a power tool.

Finally, stuffing the neck in 0000 steel wool and then turning the case with power, smooths off or removes any micro-raised imperfections left by the chamfer and deburring tool.

 

[Road_Clam]

I'm a fairly new hand loader, but I have learned a few huge time saver techniques, I lightly chuck the casing (neck out) in a low speed drill press, then using my RCBS chamfer tool chamfer both inside outside and then a light polish with fine grade 3M Scotchbrite pads and done. Casings come out MINT looking. When I tumble clean it doesn't seem to do a 100% cleaninig in the necks so I devised this alternate method. I am having some random casings stick in my chamber after firing and i'm wondering if this is from dirty necks. Since I've been polishing the necks I have not had any problems. Like the above poster comented SLOW and light force is the key to machining brass, otherwise you get chatter. My benchtop drill press goes all the way down to 115 rpm

 

[Shynloco]

Rain,
For me, I also chamfer the inside and outside of mouth for all my casings, but in a slightly different fashion. Forster makes a hand crank unit that I've attached to the edge of my reloading bench. This unit is called a "Forster DBT Base" that Midway and Sinclair sell and allows for yor to insert a variety of chamfering/deburring tools which lock into place with a set screw. You merely hand crank the unit to perform the task at hand. What I like the most is I can "feel" the chamfering/deburring and know when the surfaces on the mouth of the casings are smooth. I actually have three of these units, the third which cleans out the primer pockets (Sinclair Primer Pocket cleaners) of any residue as well as keeping them all the same size. This system has worked for me for years.

Alex

 

[gotcha]

No one has responded to the PT&G tool yet..... Though dazzling in execution won't it require spuds for each caliber? Obviously intended to provide a cut more square to the case neck, how much of that advantage is lost when using odd sized bushings or expander balls of various diameters? Just wondering?

 

[rain164845]

I will let you know on the ptg tool. It comes with your choice of bushing sizes.

 

[22BRGUY]

Inside and outside? Outside is of particular interest to me because my Wilson trimmer leaves a sharp edge that surely reduces chamber clearance.
Thanks again!
P.S. I am thinking about one of these: https://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=2055&zenid=r73p8pm3jdpptg5tjrqacfstu4

Yes, I chamfer and deburr using the RCBS rocket shaped tool.

The secret to preventing sharp edges is light pressure when pushing down on the mouth of the case. One or Two complete turns is sufficient with your tool of choice.

Remember, light pressure, even if you're using a power tool.

Finally, stuffing the neck in 0000 steel wool and then turning the case with power, smooths off or removes any micro-raised imperfections left by the chamfer and deburring tool.

+1 on Outdoorsman's method. After the steel wool, I also run a strong magnet across the case mouth with the case in the mouth down position. This will attract any small particulate steel wool that might be in the case mouth. JMHO

 

[jcampbellsmith]

K&M VLD chamfer tool for the inside and a simple RCBS tool to chamfer the outside.

I use exactly the same approach. Regards JCS

 

[Mega]

K&M VLD chamfer tool for the inside and a simple RCBS tool to chamfer the outside.

Same method here. It's actually called the "Controlled Depth Tapered Reamer" so once set cuts exactly the same depth chamfer on every case neck. Magic for seating flat based bullets plus those with a boat tail.

 

[NCVarhtr]

I have used most of the tools/methods mentioned above, including the K&M . I really like the chamfer that I get with the Wilson Case trimmer. They make a separate chamfering body with handle that goes in where the cutter body goes in. With this chamfering tool, you can control the depth of the cut and you get a very concentric cut. By controlling the depth of cut (just like you control the amount of trim) all cases are chamfered exactly the same and as I mentioned, the cut is very concentric. Does it help seat bullets more concentric? I "think" it helps.....no scientific fact to prove it but I really like it a lot......George

 

[ridgeway]

K&M VLD chamfer tool for the inside and a simple RCBS tool to chamfer the outside.

Same method here. It's actually called the "Controlled Depth Tapered Reamer" so once set cuts exactly the same depth chamfer on every case neck. Magic for seating flat based bullets plus those with a boat tail.

When Ken owned the company, he called it a VLD chamfer tool. Regardless, it works well.

 

[gotcha]

I will let you know on the ptg tool. It comes with your choice of bushing sizes.

Honestly, I think I'd go with the K&M tool. Why buy extra bushings? I might be a little catty but the PT&G tool has a Conestoga wagon era slotted screw. Wouldn't a Torx or allen be more appropriate in this day & age?

 

[Brians356]

Finally, stuffing the neck in 0000 steel wool and then turning the case with power, smooths off or removes any micro-raised imperfections left by the chamfer and deburring tool.

+1 on 0000 steel wool for final burnish of the case mouth edges. Press a wad of wool firmly against the case mouth and twirl the case until you feel and hear it smooth out, takes a few seconds.

Brian