How deep to ream a chamber/throat?

[Skeeter_Westgate]

How deep should i tell my smith to re-cut my throat? (That just sounds weird!) Which bullet should i go with as a standard gauge? I am wanting to build a 6.5 Creed and will probably shoot factory 140 Amax, but could eventually see myself starting to reload and wanting to try the 130 VLD hybrids etc.

Initially it was cut too short for either factory 120's and 140's (pushed the bullets 0.040" back into the brass from being jammed into the rifling when chambered) and had a bullet separate from the case upon extraction.

Should I tell him ream it out 0.010" or 0.015 jump beyond whatever a 140 Amax is? I'm new to having a custom rifle built, so I apologize in advance if this is a dumb question. But I didn't ask it before and have to send my rifle back now. Thanks!

 

[barnesuser28]

My suggestion would be about .245 freebore if you want to shoot the 130 grain VLD and 140 amax. Others more knowledgeable than i will chime in.

 

[Scott Harris]

If you know exactly what bullet you want to use, then send the bullet and case to him and ask him to push the throat out so that the bullet boat tail sits just above the case neck-shoulder junction. This is a simple operation with a throat reamer.

 

[Nomad47]

Skeeter, that is a difficult question regarding factory ammo. Bear in mind that you can always remove more throat AND it is difficult to put it back. My two cents would be a .010" jump.

 

[Skeeter_Westgate]

Thanks fellas. That's what I will tell the smith, 0.010" more. Right now I only have Hornady Amax ammo, mostly 140's but a few 120's too.
I'm gonna start reloading and have been told to either shoot the same bullets or try the 130 VLD Hybrids that are coming out.
A fella I talked to that used to shoot a 6.5 Creed said he had a heckuva time figuring out jump in his with the 130 VLD's.
Maybe I'll try the 142 SMK's too.

Another quick question if you will. What might be causing this:

It only happens WHEN FIRED. If I chamber and then don't shoot and remove the round, no dent or scratch in the brass.
I'm thinking it's something in the chamber that is scratchin' and denting it when the brass expands. Does that sound right?

 

[Tozguy]

The case is being scratched and dented on extraction. Both scratch and dent are on the same side, likely opposite the ejector. Without the bullet, the case comes out of the chamber at a sharper angle, gets dented against a locking lug when the shoulder clears the chamber then scratched by rubbing on the edge of a locking lug after the neck clears the chamber (or something like that )
Is not caused by a defective chamber, you probably could lighten up the ejector spring or even remove it to solve the problem.

 

[Skeeter_Westgate]

Thanks. You guys are really helpful here...I like this place already!

Good to know that it's probably not a chamber issue! I marked a round with a Sharpie by drawing a line from the neck and down
the body. I then inserted it at the 12o'clock posishun carefully. Fired the round and extracted it slowly. The scrape/dent are happening
at about the 1 o'clock posishun.

It's in a Defiance action with an M16 style extractor. Real nice & purdy action! The gun shud shoot once we git the throat elongated some more.