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Hot weather barrel cooling

I use an aquarium air pump and run the tubing into the chamber. I set the pump on top of ice packs since it draws the air in from the bottom of the pump. I have a soft sided lunch cooler I put the ice pack in, set the pump on top, and there is an outside pocket to put the battery in for the pump.
I'm sure it doesn't work near as fast as circulating water but it is real easy and is a significant improvement over just standing them up in the shade.
Same thing here except I inserted an old cleaning guide on the hose. Insert the guide tight in the chamber and go to it.
 
It takes as long as you got...and by your next sting its a little better for about 3 shots.
Lets face it barrels get really heated in Competition..bring another rifle and change out is the
best option that I have come up with, if you can.
 
Water is an excellent way to cool things down and when using aid, the more airflow one can put down the bore the faster it'll cool. I use a "chamber chiller" device much like this one:

Chamber cooling fan.jpg

A question for everyone here . . .
How hot does your barrel get before you decide to cool it down or change out for another gun?

I use a thermal strip attached to my barrel where the barrel meets the receiver and when it gets 122°F/50°C, that's when I stop to cool the barrel and do something else . . . like shoot another gun I've brought along.

Thermal strip.jpg
 
Water is an excellent way to cool things down and when using aid, the more airflow one can put down the bore the faster it'll cool. I use a "chamber chiller" device much like this one:

View attachment 1257798

A question for everyone here . . .
How hot does your barrel get before you decide to cool it down or change out for another gun?

I use a thermal strip attached to my barrel where the barrel meets the receiver and when it gets 122°F/50°C, that's when I stop to cool the barrel and do something else . . . like shoot another gun I've brought along.

View attachment 1257800
I have Flir on my phone.
 
Cooling with water down the bore, followed by 4 tight patches on a punch type jag, dry chamber, back to shooting in 3 minutes. On chrome moly barrels, a saturated patch of your favorite gun oil is ran down the bore at days end..

I have several barrels on their third and one on it's 4th chamber. I have heard it all including thermal cracking...theory does not equal real world experiences. I have used Hart, Pac Nor, Shilen, Krieger Stainless barrels, and every imaginable Varmint caliber in Remington chrome moly on over populated, dumb p. dog towns. About 6 oz of water is all it takes, and it does not have to be chilled water. Any tiny water droplets in the pores of the bore are evaporated by hot gasses that proceed the bullet down the barrel-MOST miss this information.

Barrel cooling this method is one of those things that really turns your Summer load development into a pleasure.

Also, pushing the tight patched down the bore removes more carbon than you would imagine. Often, we would take the opportunity to run some Sweets down the dry bore to remove some copper.

I put 10,000 rounds on one Hart 13T 6ppc barrel and it would still shoot in the 2's when I retired the barrel. On P. dog towns, I shot 300 round shot strings prior to cleaning but cooled the barrel often. Powder used was 2230-S which is a Non canister lot of 10% fast H335. I would dump out a 50 round box and fire just about as fast as I could lock and load, pulling the trigger with my middle finger...dogs were thick as fleas. Right bolt, left port makes for 6 shots per minute easy, but it is work. The rancher would ride through the p.dog town the next day and told us he had never seen anything like all the dead dogs. Hawks, Eagles, Kites had a field day!

Using H322 and AA2015, shot strings had to be limited to 125 rounds due to carbon build up.
 
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Some friends I shot PD's with simply rubbed ice on the outside of the barrel
and let it drain out the barrel channel-----didn't take long to cool the barrel.

Simple and good is sometimes good.

A. Weldy
 

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