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Hot weather barrel cooling

I live in Southern NM and it get's hot.....Barrel cooling between groups is a time consuming process, especially in the summer....I came up with this solution for me that works pretty, in spite of being a pain in the ass......I run a barrel cooling fan and I take aquarium tubing and wrap the barrel with that and run ice water thru it.....It's kind of a pain wrapping the barrel the first time, but after that, slide the coils off the end of the barrel and place in the ice water and you can slide the coils on the barrel the next time and they stay coiled.....Just my idea and take it for what it's worth, especially desert shooters....
 
I have experimented with using compressed CO2 to squirt down
a barrel. I used a hand, power inflator I always kept with the ATV's.
Them fat stainless barrels don't like to give up the heat. This last
barrel I had then lightly flute it to help cooling, and port the bottom
of my stock to improve cooling.
 
I have thought about what you are doing only using tubing small enough to go through the barrel and use an aquarium pump to circulate ice water on the interior of the barrel through the chamber.
 
I use ice packs from the pharmacy. The reusable kind with a soft cloth cover for putting on shoulders and such. I keep them in a ziplock on ice in a small cooler.
They’re thin enough to slide under my scope at the chamber.
 
Something wanky is going on. Tried to post this several times, wouldn't work. Leave come back and half the message is gone.

Been doing this for 40 years. Cooler of ice water and a battery syringe. Fill the syringe with ice water, insert into chamber with muzzle down and trickle ice water down the barrel. I rotate the rifle side to side to distribute the cooling affect. You can add a short piece of hose that helps. Push a patch down the barrel and go back to shooting.
 

Read my post in the above thread. Many of us use this method, chrome moly and ss barrels. Water, followed by 4 patches on a punch type jag, then dry the chamber, back to shooting. We used Hart, Kreiger, Shilen SS unturned blanks, set the barrels back several times on each barrel as throats get worn.

Gasses proceeding the bullet, evaporate any and all water molecules that could be down in pores of the barrel. I had a Rem 788 that I put 5000 rounds on, never got any rust on a patch.

The barrel would have to be 800* before the water could do harm to the steel.

We used room temp water.
 
I use an aquarium air pump and run the tubing into the chamber. I set the pump on top of ice packs since it draws the air in from the bottom of the pump. I have a soft sided lunch cooler I put the ice pack in, set the pump on top, and there is an outside pocket to put the battery in for the pump.
I'm sure it doesn't work near as fast as circulating water but it is real easy and is a significant improvement over just standing them up in the shade.
 
Super high tech, and maybe too complicated. I bring a cooler with some water and ice. Soak a towel, wring it out, wrap barrel.

Ah, the KISS METHOD...as I always have a cooler along, the only extra baggage is a small towel.

I also do the same at matches.
 
experience says a blast of CO2 or squirting cold water down the barrel cools it quickest of all.

however wet towels get used far more often because of the KISS principle.
 
50/50 water alcohol, applied with a dripping wet wash cloth to the point where the liquid is dripping off the bottom of the barrel, works.

When shooting red hot p. dog town, using stainless actions, barrels, and fiberglass stocks, we sealed the barrel channel. Then on the dog towns, we filled the barrel channels full of 50/50 water and alcohol...helped extend the shooting strings.
 

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