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Hot Load?

Depending on the cartridge, you can certainly have a hot load with virtually no outward clues. What cartridge did you have in mind?
Paul
I reload for .223, .308, 6.5 CM and soon 6GT.

I like to keep my barrels as long as I can/Because I have heard that hot loads will kill the barrel, hence my question.
 
You've got fairly decent capacity to bore cartridges. Just don't rapid fire and as boltfluter says keep the strings short.
 
What is considered a hot load? When I have pressure signs? Or I can have hot load without pressure signs?
I reload for .223, .308, 6.5 CM and soon 6GT.

I like to keep my barrels as long as I can/Because I have heard that hot loads will kill the barrel, hence my question.
Yes, you can have "hot" loads without pressure signs. "Hot loads" are typically loads that are loaded to the high end of what's recommended for a particular cartridge-bullet. Since "hot loads" tend to burn out a barrel faster, you will then probably want to stick to load that are in the middle of the recommended range for a particular powder and bullet.

And like boltfluter says, keep you're barrel heat down (like don't let it get over 122°F, at least not for very long). If you feel you need to monitor barrel heat, get an adhesive temperature strip and put it on your barrel next to the action. Then you can see when the barrel might be getting too hot and can let it cool down before continuing.
 
The main thing that kills barrels is heat from long strings of fire. At least in my experience. Don't overheat it and most barrels can have a long life.
I do 5-10 rounds and wait 5-30 minutes depending on the temperature of the day. I do let the barrel cool.
 
As far as hot loads go tough brass like ADG or Alpha can mask the pressure signs over softer brass like Hornady. For barrel life look at the powder burn temperature chart and select a powder with a cooler burn. For instance N570 is about the hottest burning and will eat a barrel almost ~40% faster than a cooler powder like H1000.
 
What is considered a hot load? When I have pressure signs? Or I can have hot load without pressure signs?
This is my opinion.

A tool/machine to gauge pressure is the only true way (in conjunction with the pressure limits of your rifle) to gauge pressure.

Brass is 'better' now than it was many years ago, when handloaders came up with some 'rules' of pressure signs.
Measurements and 'primer reading' during that time were somewhat reliable on the pressure 'one' would observe when approaching a max load (or over max).

I don't have an answer on how to determine what is max and what powder weight is too much for a given cartridge within "the limits" without a pressure gauge.

I think now/today (without a gauge), one must take their experience in combination with published material and make a guestimate of what the limit is and what is safe for the shooter and the rifle.

Again, this only MY opinion.
 
"HOT LOADS" is a relative term......once upon a time and for years 47,000psi-48,000psi wa considered a stanard load for the .30-06 and 50,000psi was standard load for the.308 and 52,000-53,000psi was a standard load for the .300WM.....now look what the stardard loads are.......brass manufacturors love it,annealing machine makers love it,barrel makers love it...all the retailers love it.
 

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