And thanks for the feedback fellas. !!!!!
That sensor switch is killer idea.I built one and tried two speed controllers but they eventually got out of time. Now I just run one motor full speed to dump the case into the waiting position until it drops into the drum. When it drops into the waiting position it blocks a prox switch "the blue round thing" which turns the motor off. When the drum comes around, and the case drops in, the prox switch turns the motor back on to get another case ready.
Switch got ordered.I built one and tried two speed controllers but they eventually got out of time. Now I just run one motor full speed to dump the case into the waiting position until it drops into the drum. When it drops into the waiting position it blocks a prox switch "the blue round thing" which turns the motor off. When the drum comes around, and the case drops in, the prox switch turns the motor back on to get another case ready.
Good looking machines friend. Lot of satisfaction in DIYGood job - You will get this machine to work well without too much trouble. I've made a good few annealers of several different own designs.
Kkeene has the answer here, the NC proximity switch can be wired directly in circuit with the motor. The top/switched motor can be run at it's full geared down speed, so it zips round and picks up a case and sits and waits until the annealed case is dropped..
Here's a couple of my home built machines:
Well I'm not too old to learn. Why wouldn't you cut the hot on both switches?Remember that the wiring for an NPN sensor is different than for PNP. One cuts the negative voltage, one cuts the positive.
No offense intended here, but if you want both wheels to maintain sync, the best option is to drive the second off the first via gears or a belt (or, worst case, rubber wheels.) I'd hate to have to keep adjusting speeds as things drift.Definitely been interesting to build. Kick myself in the ass for not going ahead and designing in the second controller. I bought it but had a brain fart and decided I didn't need it. And here we are
No offense taken.No offense intended here, but if you want both wheels to maintain sync, the best option is to drive the second off the first via gears or a belt (or, worst case, rubber wheels.) I'd hate to have to keep adjusting speeds as things drift.
Nice Project, excellent results. Need a peek in the back. Mine has one motor with 1 gear (upper wheel), toothed to a lower gear (lower wheel). Geared together, the wheels will always travel at the same speed. Use a volt meter, where wires attach to motors, see if voltage is the same. The two motors, are completing for the same low-voltage. How about a controller, made, to control 2 different motors at the same time? Follow the money trail.Well.... I finally got this thing built. Its been setting here for 2 weeks waiting to be test driven.
This morning, plenty of coffee, no grandpa duty, the war department is sleeping in so here we go.
And as luck would have it, the darn motors don't match each other with their speed. I have them wired to the same controller. Good solid connections. Wheels are same diameter. Everything is humming like an old Model M Farmall.
Except they don't match each other. After running for about ten minutes, the cartridge notches get out of time with each other.
I sure hope one of you fine gentleman with an electrical background can enlighten me on a simple fix. I don't want to run the motors separate with 2 different power supplies if I can keep from it.
I'll also say that at 12 bucks per motor, I probably got what I paid for.
Any help is appreciated.