Hogue overmolded stock relieving barrel channel

[DickE]

Installing a heavy barrel on a Howa 1500. Guy wants to use a Hogue overmolded stock, I need to relieve the barrel channel. Any ideas on best way?

 

[boltfluter]

Talk him into a different stock! That's about the only option if he wants it to look descent.

Paul

 

[RandyB]

I have done it. Will never do it again. That rubber compound is not easily removed. If you are going from the Howa sporter to Howa heavy contour I would by a Hogue stock for the heavy barrel.

 

[DickE]

Barrel that he wants installed is a Bartlein #7 MTU, pretty big barrel. Got the Hogue overmolded stock for varmint barrel. I do have a mill and an assortment of core box end mills, but don't know if that will work on rubber.

 

[rjtfroggy]

Why not try and do what they do with recoil pads, freeze it then while frozen run through the mill.
I don't know if it will work, never tried.

 

[DickE]

I thought of that. Using a can of r134a freon, with a light spray just ahead of the mill end. If it doesn't work, stuck with a $200.00 wreaked stock.

 

[DickE]

Found the clear deal for wood or Hogue overmolded stocks.

Toolso Wood Carving File 4pcs Round Rough Teeth Carpentry Woodworking Files Wood Rasp.​

Bought these a while back but thought they would be to coarse for this project. Tried one, cut the rubber overmolding like crazy, smoothed out with 60 grit on a dowel. This was the answer all along. Recommend this to anyone who wants to relieve a barrel channel

 

[DickE]

It is a oval wood stick with what looks like a coping saw blade wound around it. Easiest way to describe it.

 

[tobnpr]

Guy wants to use a Hogue overmolded stock, I need to relieve the barrel channel. Any ideas on best way?

I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.

Why take a chance on it coming out like sh**, and having the customer blame you for it?
Even if he says he doesn't care about the stock- "give it a try"- if it trashes the stock is he still going to pay you for the time you spent on it?

 

[RandyB]

Necessity is the mother of all invention! My hat is off to you sir.

 

[1911nut]

It is a oval wood stick with what looks like a coping saw blade wound around it. Easiest way to describe it.

Pics of the finished of the finished barrel channel would be cool, I wouldn’t have thought that would work.

 

[DickE]

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Im pretty sure youll need high speed abrasive not a scraping action. And once you get down the thickness of the rubber itll peel off the top edge

 

[ebb]

I enlarged mine to a larger barrel conture by taking a wood dowel and gluing 80 grit sand paper to the dowel. Use 3m spray adhesive to glue the paper on. pick the right size for the muzzle and as the channel gets bigger rub both sides and the bottom. Be patient.

 

[DickE]

Rasp on a stick worked really well, but left it a little rough. Used the dowel with glued on sand paper to smooth it out for final finish. Turned out great.

 

[Intheshop]

I recover belt grinding rollers with rubber,amongst other things here. Went through a long research period trying to find the right way to do it. Finally got to the point that,well screw it..... if it doesn't work,recover it again.

Razor sharp,high positive grind angle,HSS lathe tooling. Playing with feeds/speeds got to where we can have the finished roller look like "broke in" racing slicks.... translated;

You can get the finish better than ultra smooth,by experimentation found that a slightly rough finish results in way higher "traction". Like a scuffed in racing tire. Reason being that grinding belts,backsides get polished with use,so a rougher finish on the recovers,works noticeably better.

On cheapchit tupperware rifle stocks,and I've posted pics on here of us using carbon fiber "liners" so to speak,as a way to lay the smack down on,once and for all on stiffness...... I use carbide router tooling in a Bridgeport to open/hog out the stock material. If,I had to do a more rubbery stock like the Hogue,would be back to HSS and uber sharp, positive grind angle.