Yep
Anybody that is using a seating depth node less than .005 or..010 is just asking for disappointment
Now this doesn't apply to the short.range benchrest guys who are chasing a tune all day while conditions change.
Okay, if you say so!

Yep
Anybody that is using a seating depth node less than .005 or..010 is just asking for disappointment
Now this doesn't apply to the short.range benchrest guys who are chasing a tune all day while conditions change.
Absolutely saves shots and time, why people take notes. Bullets/powder/primers tend to shoot within a window of velocity/neck tension/seating depth. You can get in the ballpark much faster by actually knowing where you are at. You then just do a wide ladder in said ballpark to get a idea to do a fine tune. Much headache and time/money can be saved.Please explain this.
Does the stripped bolt method allow you to save shots in the tuning process? Do you feel it’s more accurate at chasing the lands? Or something else entirely?
David
That is a great way of looking at it. As long as I’m taking the measurements for my own use, whatever is quickest and simplest, and still gives me repeatable and accurate measurements, wins.
This is as simple as the stripped bolt method but you have better feel without the fire control or ejector.I don't know what its called but I seat a bullet long in a resized piece of unprimed brass chamber it , extract it check where it hit the lands back it off 1/2 thousands from contact point and as they say I just kissed the lands and that works for me. I pull the bullet with a Hornaday bullet puller that I leave in a small lee press all the time and it takes probably a couple seconds.
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Absolutely saves shots and time, why people take notes. Bullets/powder/primers tend to shoot within a window of velocity/neck tension/seating depth. You can get in the ballpark much faster by actually knowing where you are at. You then just do a wide ladder in said ballpark to get a idea to do a fine tune. Much headache and time/money can be saved.
Ray
For those of you that are about to go drive those ejector roll pins out for their first time to go try the stripped bolt method...
Be sure you keep the ejector and spring from popping out across the room when the roll pin clears. An empty case hooked under the extractor will keep things in place till you are ready to release them. There is a dedicated tool for the task, but it is easy enough to hook a case.
And, if you think the roll pin is spent or unreliable when it is time to put it back, get a fresh one.
Can somebody please retitle this string " HORNADY OAL TOOL USE" ? Thanks.
I don't know what its called but I seat a bullet long in a resized piece of unprimed brass chamber it , extract it check where it hit the lands back it off 1/2 thousands from contact point and as they say I just kissed the lands and that works for me. I pull the bullet with a Hornaday bullet puller that I leave in a small lee press all the time and it takes probably a couple seconds.
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Maybe with a stripped bolt and a skilled hand you can overcome this massive sensitivity, and the math is stacked against you. It's the same reason that people using the Hornady tool struggle with repeatability-- it's based on "feel" as the primary source of repeatability.
However, if you do a hard jam into the lands with normal neck tension, then your position of the bullet ends up being driven by the actual metallurgical properties of the bullet itself-- the yield strength of the bullet relative to the neck tension, which is quite a bit less unless you have crazy hard necks and huge amounts of tension.
So the hard jam should be more repeatable for the same reason that many modern engines use torque-to-yield bolts. The metallurgy determines the load on the bolts, not the friction and torque on them, giving far more consistent load from one bolt to the other.