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Hints on Hornady OAL tool use

Please explain this.

Does the stripped bolt method allow you to save shots in the tuning process? Do you feel it’s more accurate at chasing the lands? Or something else entirely?

David
Absolutely saves shots and time, why people take notes. Bullets/powder/primers tend to shoot within a window of velocity/neck tension/seating depth. You can get in the ballpark much faster by actually knowing where you are at. You then just do a wide ladder in said ballpark to get a idea to do a fine tune. Much headache and time/money can be saved.

Ray
 
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That is a great way of looking at it. As long as I’m taking the measurements for my own use, whatever is quickest and simplest, and still gives me repeatable and accurate measurements, wins.
:confused:I don't know what its called but I seat a bullet long in a resized piece of unprimed brass chamber it , extract it check where it hit the lands back it off 1/2 thousands from contact point and as they say I just kissed the lands and that works for me. I pull the bullet with a Hornaday bullet puller that I leave in a small lee press all the time and it takes probably a couple seconds.:p
 
:confused:I don't know what its called but I seat a bullet long in a resized piece of unprimed brass chamber it , extract it check where it hit the lands back it off 1/2 thousands from contact point and as they say I just kissed the lands and that works for me. I pull the bullet with a Hornaday bullet puller that I leave in a small lee press all the time and it takes probably a couple seconds.:p
This is as simple as the stripped bolt method but you have better feel without the fire control or ejector.

Ray
 
For those of you that are about to go drive those ejector roll pins out for their first time to go try the stripped bolt method...

Be sure you keep the ejector and spring from popping out across the room when the roll pin clears. An empty case hooked under the extractor will keep things in place till you are ready to release them. There is a dedicated tool for the task, but it is easy enough to hook a case.

And, if you think the roll pin is spent or unreliable when it is time to put it back, get a fresh one.
 
Absolutely saves shots and time, why people take notes. Bullets/powder/primers tend to shoot within a window of velocity/neck tension/seating depth. You can get in the ballpark much faster by actually knowing where you are at. You then just do a wide ladder in said ballpark to get a idea to do a fine tune. Much headache and time/money can be saved.

Ray

Like I said, I got within .003 of the stripped bolt number by using my Hornady tool. The Hornady reads just a tiny bit longer and I suspect I can make it read almost the same if I didn't push as firmly on the tool.

So if I start tuning .003 away from my other method, I will pretty much get the same tune in the same amount of shots. And I can do it very quickly.
 
For those of you that are about to go drive those ejector roll pins out for their first time to go try the stripped bolt method...

Be sure you keep the ejector and spring from popping out across the room when the roll pin clears. An empty case hooked under the extractor will keep things in place till you are ready to release them. There is a dedicated tool for the task, but it is easy enough to hook a case.

And, if you think the roll pin is spent or unreliable when it is time to put it back, get a fresh one.

Good idea. I've launched a few of them too. A big zip loc or other plastic bag to catch everything also works.
 
I don’t like stripping the bolt but I have used this method. Just don’t like the idea of searching for a spring or small part under the bench. I have changed how I use my Hornady tool and get very consistent results. First, insert the bullet long in the case and tighten the thumb screw. Next, I insert the case/bullet into the chamber until the bullet hits firm resistance against the lands. At this point, the case shoulder is not in contact with the chamber wall. I loosen the thumb screw on the gage and push the gage body until the case is fully seated. Tighten the thumb screw and remove the gage and case. Sometimes but not often, the bullet will stick in the lands. I can measure 10 times, using this method and be within .001 on each measurement.
 
:confused:I don't know what its called but I seat a bullet long in a resized piece of unprimed brass chamber it , extract it check where it hit the lands back it off 1/2 thousands from contact point and as they say I just kissed the lands and that works for me. I pull the bullet with a Hornaday bullet puller that I leave in a small lee press all the time and it takes probably a couple seconds.:p


I'm starting to think this is the best method of all. Here's why:

The geometry of the tapered entry to the rifling means that OAL variation in the on the order of a thousandth are diametrical changes of tiny fractions of a thousandth. Which means your measured depth is *very* sensitive to things like bullet diameter changes, neck tension, and such.

Maybe with a stripped bolt and a skilled hand you can overcome this massive sensitivity, and the math is stacked against you. It's the same reason that people using the Hornady tool struggle with repeatability-- it's based on "feel" as the primary source of repeatability.

However, if you do a hard jam into the lands with normal neck tension, then your position of the bullet ends up being driven by the actual metallurgical properties of the bullet itself-- the yield strength of the bullet relative to the neck tension, which is quite a bit less unless you have crazy hard necks and huge amounts of tension.

So the hard jam should be more repeatable for the same reason that many modern engines use torque-to-yield bolts. The metallurgy determines the load on the bolts, not the friction and torque on them, giving far more consistent load from one bolt to the other.
 
Maybe with a stripped bolt and a skilled hand you can overcome this massive sensitivity, and the math is stacked against you. It's the same reason that people using the Hornady tool struggle with repeatability-- it's based on "feel" as the primary source of repeatability.

However, if you do a hard jam into the lands with normal neck tension, then your position of the bullet ends up being driven by the actual metallurgical properties of the bullet itself-- the yield strength of the bullet relative to the neck tension, which is quite a bit less unless you have crazy hard necks and huge amounts of tension.

So the hard jam should be more repeatable for the same reason that many modern engines use torque-to-yield bolts. The metallurgy determines the load on the bolts, not the friction and torque on them, giving far more consistent load from one bolt to the other.

This logic can be applied to the Hornady tool. Just push hard into the lands and have a cleaning rod in the bore to pop out the bullet each time.

Like I said, I'm repeatable within .001" and that number is a few thou deeper than the stripped bolt number. But I get my data much faster and I don't disassemble my bolt.
 
Hornady comparitor.

If you use a case that is fire formed in your chamber(of course does not need FL sizing), results are fantastic.

I sell the proper drill and tap for $23 delivered...problem solved! Send me a pm, I think that I have three.

Keith
 
I have the straight Hornady tool. I make certain that the case is tight and I hold the back of the shaft with my thumb to make sure the case is seated firmly in the chamber. Then I push the rod with my fingers while maintaining pressure on the shaft with my thumb and tighten the screw. The bullet will lodge in the throat of the bore. I use a muzzle protector and a rod to dislodge the bullet.

Normally I'll do a minimum of 5 bullets and average my readings which rarely vary more than .001" from the average, plus or minus.

This method has worked well for me.
 

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