Here ya go folks - for a 30BR reamer, it won't get any better than this.

[RGRobinett]

Simply call, or, e-mail JGS, and order 30BR ROBINETT V2 (for Robinett version 2). Though this may prove neither better, nor worse, than reamers featuring other dimensions, it will certainly prove excellent! If wanting a new 30BR reamer, this is exactly what I'd order. No more messing about, exchanging dimensions: JGS will not let you down.

Note, this is a wild-cat (well, domesti-cat) - a chamber cut with this reamer will require trimming to 1.500" OAL! The .331" neck diameter will accommodate cleaning-up LAPUA 6BR-NORMA brass while allowing more than ample clearance with a full 0.010" neck-wall thickness. RG

P.S. The point of this thread/post, is to provide a direct & simple link to a [excellent] vendor, and, for those unfamiliar with dimensions/print reading, a no questions order option: a well proven, reliable, solution to growing demand for 30BR reamers. I agreed -sheepishly- to the use of my name, as people frequently ask for , "a ROBINETT reamer", and this will accommodate the process for both JGS and yours truly. I won't be getting any further involved with this thread than I already have below. RG


JGS Precision Tool MFG LLC
60819 Selander Road
Coos Bay, OR 97420
Phone: 541-267-4331
Fax: 541-267-5996

 

[jobhopper66]

I can't imagine getting any better advice than this regarding the 30BR cartridge.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Looks good to me!

 

[DaveTooley]

Randy
One of these days you're going to figure this out.

 

[JMayo]

Interested in free bore. I don't know how to read prints fully.
0 free bore and compressed loads are my concern right now with my new chamber.
Testing 35.0 - 35.8 4198 even with drop tube, i have to have a tighter neck than i want to get bullet to stay put with > 35.2

 

[RGRobinett]

This reamer features ZERO free-bore. The typical H-4198 charge weight (case near level-full), in combination with the [favored] short/light bullets, seated to a "just touch" length, will [lightly] compact the powder positioning the bullet base about 0.125-.150" below the case mouth. For the 30BR expansion ratio, compacted charges are, "where it's at". (Note: I differentiate between compaction vs. compression - the latter of which results in crushing/deforming the granules.)

Sizing the neck to 0.004" under the loaded-round neck diameter will get desirable precision 98% of the time. This 'neck-tension' will 'hold' the bullet where you place it. And, by holding onto the bullet, for that extra 'nano second' before expanding and releasing said projectile, will aid in achieving more uniform ignition.

For over 20 years now, & hundreds of calls, this information has been shared with callers not quite getting the desired precision from their new 30BR - typically, they are fussing around with a 'just kiss', to 0.015" 'jump' and a 0.002-0.003" under neck bushing. While this works for some, for the vast majority, a 'full jam' and a firm grip results in smaller groups.

I receive many return calls stating hallelujah - never had a return call, or, e-mail stating that this did not 'cure the problem', producing smaller average groups size. The odd-ball barrel will 'like' a little jump. Especially, if using a 'jump', for uniformity, one must use enough tension to keep the bullet in the desired position . . . with a thirty Cal. cartridge, more neck-tension rarely hurts.

Not intending rudness: do you want your rig/ammo to shoot, or, be 'assembled' the way you want/like?
If concerned with shortening case-life due to 'excessive' sizing, that is not an issue. Following sharing how many times I have fired brass, I have been called a lier . . . it's a LOT . . and I have never had either a split neck, or, a detached neck. Here's a link to what works 98%+ of the time: < https://bibullets.com/stuff-2/ > RG

 

[OmegaRed]

Interested in free bore. I don't know how to read prints fully.
0 free bore and compressed loads are my concern right now with my new chamber.
Testing 35.0 - 35.8 4198 even with drop tube, i have to have a tighter neck than i want to get bullet to stay put with > 35.2

IMR or H 4198? What chamber is your barrel?

Not that I'm qualified to comment or add anything additional to supplement Randy's comments, but as should be expected they ARE gospel. Lots of jam, lots of neck tension, lots of powder. Somewhere in Randy's past posts he recommends a starting point of .030 jam and .004 NT - and not that there's not plenty of other spots along the way that will shoot, but these have proved to require very little tinkering to get to shoot single hole 5 shot groups in every 30BR barrel that I've tuned.

 

[6ShotsOr5?]

Randy, I can completely endorse what you said, light jam and a tight grip on the bullet works well for me. I would want to buy this reamer except with the long barrel life and the 200 or so rounds per year due to the light match schedule at my club, it’s gonna take me twenty years to wear out my barrel!

 

[Lefty Trigger]

We started out at our club this spring with three shooters all with new builds in 30BR by fall time they have all but given up on them. Not a one will give an exact reason behind that? They have all went back to 6BR and one Dasher. I wanted one but was steering away because I never wanted to turn brass necks, but now I'm turning necks,... go figure.
This reamer is really interesting...

 

[JMayo]

The kick turns allot off. I was not liking it at first but its accuracy made it up for me !
I did well last year short range ibs & ubr.
The freebore was .003 on that barrel. I jamed them hard, had very little bullet in the case. This year's barrel is 00. I use a longer drop tube but still have compressed loads. That is why i asked about compact/compressed loads. I don't have experience in this area.
Thank you R.

 

[jimmymac]

I've been shooting a 30BR for three seasons now and will continue to do so. I've experienced outstanding accuracy at the typical 100 and 200 yards distances I shoot.

With a PPC, I always start off at a hard jam so there only one way for me to go with bullet seating. I did the same thing with the 30BR. I went with a hard jam and good case fill and it worked from day one. Every time I tested seating depth by decreasing the CBTO, precision suffered and I always ended up right back where I started at hard jam with a square mark on my bullet. Same deal with another 30BR barrel I'm using. With good case fill and a hard jam, it does well.

IMO, recoil is a non-issue in a 13.5 pound gun. It might get a little sporty on a 10.5 pound gun. YMMV

The one thing I am seeing is I do not think I will get the long barrel life that others report. This one has about 2000 rounds on it now and is still working great, but it's stripping a lot of copper these days and needs cleaned between each target. I don't expect it to last much longer.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I have never met or spoken with Mr. Robinette but have sought out and read every thing I can find on his 30BR advice. My first 30 barrel which I had done in 2004 is ready right now for the Winter Season here in Pa. The barrel has countless rounds on it and has won matches from 100 to 500 yards. The bullet of choice and 99 percent of the many thousands of rounds has been Euber. I will be out of them by spring so I will go to the 112 Barts I recently recieved. I started with a PPC bolt face Panda and a friend turned the rim on 150 cases for me. The Panda has since been opened up, still working with the first 100 of the 150 cases from 2004. A great cartridge. One trap that is easy to fall into with the 30 is that it shoots so well so easy you must stay critical and fine tune it to get the full potential from it. Thanks Mr. Robinette for all your good advice. Yes, I have a copy of his original reamer.

 

[RGRobinett]

I have never met or spoken with Mr. Robinette but have sought out and read every thing I can find on his 30BR advice. My first 30 barrel which I had done in 2004 is ready right now for the Winter Season here in Pa. The barrel has countless rounds on it and has won matches from 100 to 500 yards. The bullet of choice and 99 percent of the many thousands of rounds has been Euber. I will be out of them by spring so I will go to the 112 Barts I recently recieved. I started with a PPC bolt face Panda and a friend turned the rim on 150 cases for me. The Panda has since been opened up, still working with the first 100 of the 150 cases from 2004. A great cartridge. One trap that is easy to fall into with the 30 is that it shoots so well so easy you must stay critical and fine tune it to get the full potential from it. Thanks Mr. Robinette for all your good advice. Yes, I have a copy of his original reamer.

"I won't be getting any further involved with this thread than I already have below.RG"

We . . . ll, almost! JEFFPPC idnetified a common phone call topic: especially when shooting 3-shot groups, if one can see three leaves in every, or, even a majority of the clovers, there is, "money left on the table"! Ya need to factor three-shot group size by 1.4. "Settling for less" is common practice.

To this day, I remain surprised at how many people shy away from, what they see as 'compressing'
the powder (usually either H-4198, or, N-130), thus stopping somewhat short of nirvana. RG

 

[Bill K]

To this day, I remain surprised at how many people shy away from, what they see as 'compressing'
the powder (usually either H-4198, or, N-130), thus stopping somewhat short of nirvana. RG

So true.

 

[LCazador]

Simply call, or, e-mail JGS, and order 30BR ROBINETT V2 (for Robinett version 2). Though this may prove neither better, nor worse, than reamers featuring other dimensions, it will certainly prove excellent! If wanting a new 30BR reamer, this is exactly what I'd order. No more messing about, exchanging dimensions: JGS will not let you down.

Note, this is a wild-cat (well, domesti-cat) - a chamber cut with this reamer will require trimming to 1.500" OAL! The .331" neck diameter will accommodate cleaning-up LAPUA 6BR-NORMA brass while allowing more than ample clearance with a full 0.010" neck-wall thickness. RG

P.S. The point of this thread/post, is to provide a direct & simple link to a [excellent] vendor, and, for those unfamiliar with dimensions/print reading, a no questions order option: a well proven, reliable, solution to growing demand for 30BR reamers. I agreed -sheepishly- to the use of my name, as people frequently ask for , "a ROBINETT reamer", and this will accommodate the process for both JGS and yours truly. I won't be getting any further involved with this thread than I already have below. RG


JGS Precision Tool MFG LLC
60819 Selander Road
Coos Bay, OR 97420
Phone: 541-267-4331
Fax: 541-267-5996

I was going to have a new reamer done so thanks for saving me the time. The thicker neck will work better. It seems the newer Lapua 6BR brass gets pretty thin at that neck shoulder junction. I had a couple of necks come off last year. I've been buying most of my reamers from JGS that last ten years. They do great work!

 

[6bra1k]

the only thing different i did was go to 1.550...no since throwing away good brass...
I TRIM TO 1.545
BUT I FIRE FORM WITHOUT A BULLET AND IT GIVES A LONGER CASE.

 

[Ccrider]

the only thing different i did was go to 1.550...no since throwing away good brass...
I TRIM TO 1.545
BUT I FIRE FORM WITHOUT A BULLET AND IT GIVES A LONGER CASE.

So, is there a benefit to going with the longer chamber? How is it working out?

 

[JimPag]

So, is there a benefit to going with the longer chamber? How is it working out?

I have 3 30BR reamers with various chamber lengths and all have .330 necks. One is a PTG with a 1.540 cl with 15 thousandths FB. A Henriksen 1.520 with 25 thousandths FB and a PTG with a 1.510 CL and zero FB that has all the exact specs of the original Robinette reamer. They all work just the same on paper. I haven't noticed any performance difference at various matches between the 3 of them.

 

[JEFFPPC]

An amazing cartridge.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I've been shooting a 30BR for three seasons now and will continue to do so. I've experienced outstanding accuracy at the typical 100 and 200 yards distances I shoot.

With a PPC, I always start off at a hard jam so there only one way for me to go with bullet seating. I did the same thing with the 30BR. I went with a hard jam and good case fill and it worked from day one. Every time I tested seating depth by decreasing the CBTO, precision suffered and I always ended up right back where I started at hard jam with a square mark on my bullet. Same deal with another 30BR barrel I'm using. With good case fill and a hard jam, it does well.

IMO, recoil is a non-issue in a 13.5 pound gun. It might get a little sporty on a 10.5 pound gun. YMMV

The one thing I am seeing is I do not think I will get the long barrel life that others report. This one has about 2000 rounds on it now and is still working great, but it's stripping a lot of copper these days and needs cleaned between each target. I don't expect it to last much longer.

Jimmy, that is what Iosso is for. I hope your fished out, lol.