Help with Hornady neck turning tool

[Pareto]

I have been trying to get started neck turning some brass, but after turning about 80 cases, I found I have screwed up about half a dozen using the drill based Hornady tool. Sometimes, I either don't quite push bullet forward properly or something hangs up and the neck is twisted or even trashed.

Is this just something where I need to have a more consistent touch that comes with more practice? Does anyone have tips to do this more consistently? Fortunately the cases I've turned seem to be smooth and have good concentricity. But I don't like my high rate of case destruction.

 

[47WillysGuy]

This process is for NEW brass; and but I recommend practicing on old rejected brass.

-Trim all cases to a consistent length.
-Deburr/clean up case neck interior with a deburring tool.
-Lubricate the case neck interior with a case neck brush and lubricant
-Expand case necks, (my expander's dimension is 0.2629)
-Lube case necks to receive the neck turning mandrel tool (my neck turning mandrel is 0.2622)
-One more time, just before putting the case neck to the neck turner, run it through the neck expander again ensuring the case neck is at its largest internal dimension.
-Place the case on the case holder of your Hornady tool and with steady pressure on the drill motor and a slow RPM, cut the neck all the way to the shoulder.
-Continuing the slow drill motor RPM , pull the case off the cutting mandrel.
-Polish cut neck with 0000 steel wool, measure case neck wall thickness, and adjust the cutter.

The difference between the expander mandrel and neck turning mandrel is 0.0007".

Things I've learned:
If you spin the case fast, heat build fast between the brass case neck and the neck turn mandrel and the mandrel expands. Consistency will be lost.

I use a dedicated neck turn tool for each caliber that I shoot; ie, 6.5MM and 30 caliber. Once the cutter is set, it never changes. Keeps frustration level down.

Take 0.001 to .002 thousands only, don't hogg the cut. I find that drill motor hand hold pressure where the cutter tool and the drill motor seem to work together to almost pull the case neck to the case shoulder.

From a case lube pad, I pinch a bit of lubricant between my thumb and trigger finger to lube the case turning mandrel. Also checks to see if heat is building there.

If going race fast through the neck turning process, you will lose. Good luck!

 

[Pareto]

I guess I need a 2 speed drill as mine is entirely determined by trigger pressure and it's too easy to go too fast. I should get one with a lower speed range and a higher range

 

[SecondsCount]

Make sure the case mouth is on the mandrel before it makes contact with the cutter. I had issues with the mandrel backing off, and finally figured it all out by making sure everything was locked down tight.

As noted, only take off .001 or 002" at a time.

 

[6BRA]

Don't lock your case holder down until the case mouth is on mandrel.
Resize before hand and must have a matched expander mandrel that matches your turning mandrel diameter. Very important to have case mouth freshly opened to same size as turning mandrel. This will provide the most uniform cut. Bar and chain oil before running on turning mandrel applied with a q tip is my method. You want the fit on the turning mandrel tight but not so tight that it will gall the inside case neck and this will also cause heat if overly tight. No more than you run the expanding mandrel through the brass the brass will slowly begin springing back about a .0005. This will be just about perfect. The matched expander mandrel is key. Of course all must be cut to same length before ever starting.

 

[wv.citybilly]

I recently purchased the Hornady.

Mounted to a board so I can clamp it to the bench and remove it. Measuring with a Taper and Gage for a fit on the mandrel, I arrived at .222. DeWalt electric drill for use with reloading, on low speed. For lube I have a spray bottle of (1 part) lanolin oil and (9 part) alcohol.

Mine doesn't align exactly but once on the mandrel it seems to be okay.

Oh, and I removed the spring.

.02

https://imgur.com/OENzuXw

 

[Pareto]

I recently purchased the Hornady.

Mounted to a board so I can clamp it to the bench and remove it. Measuring with a Taper and Gage for a fit on the mandrel, I arrived at .222. DeWalt electric drill for use with reloading, on low speed. For lube I have a spray bottle of (1 part) lanolin oil and (9 part) alcohol.

Mine doesn't align exactly but once on the mandrel it seems to be okay.

Oh, and I removed the spring.

.02

https://imgur.com/OENzuXw

So far, I feel I have more control with the spring. But I'm going to get a lower powered drill. My one size fits all corded seems too powerful and easy to overdo.

 

[nmkid]

Get one of the Hitachi(spelling?) drills. Not very expensive. They used to be around $19. They are green in color. I got mine at Lowe's. They have a small wheel under the trigger that helps you adjust the speed. Once you set your speed you can pull the trigger as hard as you want and the drill speed will always stay at the speed you set it for.