Help,,,,,Scope mounting with epoxy

[d.id]

First off my 338 edge kicks less than the 22-250 (no exaggeration) and it ran great with the light scope after switching to the heavy scope I ran in to issues...... I had to abandon signature rings and the base constantly coming loose so I switched to a DNZ similar to the one that had held the light scope but accommodating a 20moa cant and 30mm tube. That did not hold it so I added powdered resin which did not hold it......... epoxy bedded base to receiver and went back to signatures this time with resin and it did not hold it. OK now I am done screwing around so I got not one but two sets of leupolds and to my horror they where different heights despite being "identical parts"........... I lapped one of the rings down to match the other pair and installed the three rings with resin................................... held for a while but still slipped and right at the beginning of hunting season. OK now I have $hundreds$ in the dam mounts...........I do just so happen to have two matching sets of weaver 6-hole tactical rings, I have a lapping bar some jb weld and/or devcon steel putty......I think I actually have a reverse recoil impulse and unless some one has a better Idea I am going to have scope rings bonded to a scope real soon. Any suggestions? Thanks...........Duke

 

[canderson]

I am assuming that you have a very effective muzzle brake. I have a rifle 338 allen (338-408 cheytac). Kirby Allen built the rifle and has his propietary muzzle brake that he installs. It is very effective. I shoot 300 gr smk's @ 3200 fps. Kirby builds these rifle with four nightforce rings. Two for the recoil of the rifle and two for the deceleration from the muzzle brake. Hope this gives you some insight.

 

[TonyR]

Tony Boyer explains how to bed scopes in his recent book.

 

[d.id]

Thanks Folks. I thought I was going off the deep end With four rings, so I am glad to hear That. My edge is of course not running that fast but is a light weight by most standards and wares a Ross Schuler three baffle brake. I did some reading on scope bedding and that got me on this path but I am considering leaving out the release agent and just bonding instead. I love this cannon but cost to much to sight in or have come loose at the wrong time. I need to restore trust in the rings......Thank you.......If anyone else has Ideas, Please throw your hat in the ring.................Duke

 

[Ing. Michael W. Mayerl]

First off my 338 edge kicks less than the 22-250 (no exaggeration) and it ran great with the light scope after switching to the heavy scope I ran in to issues...... I had to abandon signature rings and the base constantly coming loose so I switched to a DNZ similar to the one that had held the light scope but accommodating a 20moa cant and 30mm tube. That did not hold it so I added powdered resin which did not hold it......... epoxy bedded base to receiver and went back to signatures this time with resin and it did not hold it. OK now I am done screwing around so I got not one but two sets of leupolds and to my horror they where different heights despite being "identical parts"........... I lapped one of the rings down to match the other pair and installed the three rings with resin................................... held for a while but still slipped and right at the beginning of hunting season. OK now I have $hundreds$ in the dam mounts...........I do just so happen to have two matching sets of weaver 6-hole tactical rings, I have a lapping bar some jb weld and/or devcon steel putty......I think I actually have a reverse recoil impulse and unless some one has a better Idea I am going to have scope rings bonded to a scope real soon. Any suggestions? Thanks...........Duke

1) glue all bases and base screws with 2K epoxy (not Loctite - that is only ok for screws but not for bases). First use Aceton to clean the surface, than glue it. Base bedding is not necessary because no one will remove a pica rail and when it`s realy necessary (new barrel) it can be heated up to 200°C and removed very easy.
2) glue all scopes in the rings. Thighten the scope ring screws only 30% - 100% when the expoy is hardened (48 hours). Never glue the screws of the rings - best coat this screws with some grease.
3) waste glue next to the rings and bases should be removed with Q-Tips and some alcohol on toilet paper
4) on small calibers up to 308, 3006 the scope tube can be waxed before glueing.

- good 2K epoxy is UHU Endfest 300 (I don`t now if you get it in USA) or JB-Weld (realy good stuff). Also Devon - that is used for bedding - can be used for glueing bases and rings.
- be carefull: if parts are coated (Ilaflon, Duracoat etc) the coating should be removed partial at the glued surface because they can prevent a connection - metal to metal contact is best.
- use only steel bases and steel rings on high recoil guns (best nitrogen hardened) - aluminium has limits.
- a muzzle break doesn`t reduce the impuls forces on the scope - it can increase it because a second impulse in shooting stress the scope

2K epoxy gives a 100% perfekt fit and has a higher strength than soldered parts