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Help on my rifle!

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I worked at gun store through college and while there I came across a semi custom remington 700 chambered in a 20 tac. It looks like whoever built the rifle might of skipped a couple steps but the rifle shoots unbelievably well, but it has feeding issues and sometimes super hard too close almost like I wasn’t bumping the shoulder back or jamming into the lands like crazy!

I believe one of the issues is the rifle started its life as a larger caliber, 22-250/243 win. Looks to of had a different follower. Now I’ve pulled a follower out of my 204 ruger and swapped it and it fixed majority of the issue except it seems the original spring and length of the follower might be off a bit. The rounds have a lot of wiggle room and while putting in 4 or 5 round over half the time I get a nasty jam and have to dump all the rounds and start over.

Number 2 is the bolt face. I’ve owned 10-15+ remingtons and haven’t had one with the extractor that cuts across the bolt face instead of being on the edge. I don’t know if this is a much older gun but even my 70’s remingtons don’t have that. I’m trying to upload a photo but having some issues. Basically it looks as if the bolt face might be larger and they used a thin piece of steel in a half moon shape with an extractor on it that now cuts into the bolt face a little making it a smaller bolt face. It isn’t 100% fixed either. There is a little wiggle room and I’m wondering if this might be causing my feeding issues once in a while. It’s not too often but it is happening more and more. I’ve loaded rounds long before, and loaded them without bumping shoulders so I know what that feels like. This feels like it’s the wrong case going in the gun (which it is not) It won’t close all the way forward nevermind even pushing it down. I have to bang it around a little before it feels like the extractor finally moves into position (that little wiggle room I mentioned) now allowing the cartridge to properly contact the bolt face allowing bolt to be cycled properly.

I’m wondering what I can do about this. Would it be best to get a gunsmith to replace the bolt with a ptg replacement bolt with the proper set up on it, and then run a dbm or a new bdl? I paid very very little for the rifle, and the rifle is currently a trued 700 with a fluted bolt, aftermarket 20 cal 1:11 twist ( fairly certain it’s kreiger or bartlein), barrel, Jewell trigger sitting in the original vls stock. Makes for one hell of a varmint rifle but has to many issues to be reliable! What’s my remedy to this situation?
 
I is no Gumsmitt. But I heard of such thing happening when someone tries to true to bolt face and messes up the extractor area. Afterwards the fakap some opt for a Sako extractor which is controversial to say the least.

A new Bolt is the best option in my opinion. Just keep in mind my opinion is small cuz I is no Gumsmitt.
 
So what’s entailed in purchasing a new bolt, and gunsmithing work to make everything operate and function properly?
 
Long story short.

- headspace need to be checked and adjusted
- bolt timing needs to be checked and adjusted
- fit of bolt in the receiver should be measured and ordered correctly. .695 .700 etc
-Firing pin protrusion needs to be checked
I am sure there is more I am typed out
 
How does the bolt close with out a case in the chamber.If it is just as difficult empty it could be there is not enough clearance between the bolt nose and the barrel.
 
A new bolt, from the looks of that one. Or maybe a smith could re-face and clean it up and put in a sako type extracer. New bolt my be the best way to go.
 
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