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Help needed on cleaning and die storage.

I picked up some Redding comp dies with micrometer seater. The dials have some very light rust on the knurled handle. What do you guys recommend to remove it with without removing original finish? Can I clean the micrometer head in my sonic cleaner? What does everyone use to coat their dies with when they will be stored and not being used? These dies are calibers I don’t have but plan on getting later down the road and could not pass up the price. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I use Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube for this (item #9990). It used to be marketed as a Dry Lube because it leaves a hard wax finish behind. My dies get caked up with case lube and so I disassemble them and shoot this stuff through them and then go to work with a swab. The dies operate more smoothly after this treatment.
 
What do you guys recommend to remove it with without removing original finish?
Can you post a pic? What one calls "very light rust" someone else might call badly rusted. Makes a difference on how to deal with.

But I start with a stiff nylon bristle brush after soaking in Kroil. Next I would brush with a fine bronze wire brush (I get both of these from Brownells). Neither of these will hurt the finish. The bronze brush will leave some bronze on the surface, but copper remover will take care of that.

Redding dies come with a protective coating on them to prevent rust. I've never bought a used Redding die that anyone had ever properly cleaned. So I start by soaking them in OMS (odorless mineral spirits) for couple of days to dissolve it. Next I thoroughly clean and let them dry. Next I take CLP and use a chip brush with some on it, to put a protective coat on the exterior surfaces. I use a patch with a few drops on it for the interior. This works for me in 5K feet elevation in CO. When I lived in humid DE, a more protective coat was required.
 
Can you post a pic? What one calls "very light rust" someone else might call badly rusted. Makes a difference on how to deal with.

But I start with a stiff nylon bristle brush after soaking in Kroil. Next I would brush with a fine bronze wire brush (I get both of these from Brownells). Neither of these will hurt the finish. The bronze brush will leave some bronze on the surface, but copper remover will take care of that.

Redding dies come with a protective coating on them to prevent rust. I've never bought a used Redding die that anyone had ever properly cleaned. So I start by soaking them in OMS (odorless mineral spirits) for couple of days to dissolve it. Next I thoroughly clean and let them dry. Next I take CLP and use a chip brush with some on it, to put a protective coat on the exterior surfaces. I use a patch with a few drops on it for the interior. This works for me in 5K feet elevation in CO. When I lived in humid DE, a more protective coat was required.
I haven’t figured out how to upload pics yet but you can barely see the rust. The dies look brand new except you can see tiny rust starting on the knob in the knurl. I just want to get it off and gone. I’ve never had this problem due to I keep what few dies I have stored in my safe with dehumidifier.
 
#0000 steel wool, 1/2 kroil and royal purple. Will not hurt bluing unless the rust has gone through it to bare metal. Storage; wooden cigar box with double thickness of good paper towels in the bottom of the box sprayed with WD-40, spray the dies too. When you get ready to use them again spray them off with break cleaner, lube them and use them. When you get through clean them well with brake cleaner, spray with WD-40 and back in the cigar box, never a problem in 50 yrs
John
 
i use carnuba wax for the outside and oiling as above for the inside I store them in their die boxes w/ Zerust chips. Never a lick of trouble.
 

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