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Help me build a world class 6.5x47 Lupua

I am ready to start building my first custom gun and looking for opinions. First, it will be chambered in 6.5x47 Lupua. Next. I want it to be extremely accurate to 1000+ yards. In Alabama, there're not much long range competition going on and I'm not willing to travel far. So I want something of a cross between an F-class and Benchrest and try to stay within the legal limits of each class. Probably no hunting with this gun. I have a 270 Win for that. So, I might get a chance at some F-class or benchrest competition but more likely I'll have to find some canyons for long range target. So what do you think?
Suggested specs by a gunsmith:

McMillian MBR Tooley stock
Bat Model MB, stainless steel, multiflat, right bolt-right port, diamond fluted bolt (not sure of appropriate contour but heavy), trigger guard from BAT and the throat set for 120-140 gr bullets
Broughton 7.91 contour at 30" long 1-8 twist
Jewell trigger

Bat has several models of the MB and I'm not sure which was recommended. I favor rifle cut barrels but no real justification for that.

I'm looking for in-depth specs right down to the bedding used that would allow me to order all components needed for the gunsmith to put it together. Assume money not an issue. I could probably just buy a rifle but then it wouldn't really be "my rifle".

All opinions and advise appreciated but I would like to know your justification for your selections.

Let's build a world class weapon.
 
Well...

Danny Biggs is from Huntsville, and he just broke an F-Class record--twice--shooting a Barnard.

Derek Rodgers won the last year's F-Class (Open) Nationals at Sacramento, shooting a Barnard.

I'd be thinking Barnard.

RBD
 
You ask for recommendations for components right down to the bedding compound so you can purchase them and drop them off at the gunsmith. Maybe you should find a gunsmith first and talk with him and see if he can find a 6.5 x 47 Lupua reamer, I have a couple for 6.5 x 47 Lapua though.

wade
 
Sry- always thought of any gun as a weapon but to be more specific it waould be a target rifle for long range mixed for both f-class and benchrest
 
Most gunsmiths I have discussed this with who didn't have the reamer were willing to cover half the cost of one. That may be necessary. I would need to know sources for the best reamers as well.
 
Buy your own reamer and keep it.That way you know exactly what you have and will have, if you ever replace the barrel.Theres a lot of specification deciding to do before you order your reamer and it would probably be best to pick the brain of another shooter thats shooting the caliber you want and also the reamer maker.Dave at PTG has always made time to talk reamers to me every time I consulted him and thier service is second to none.
 
I would not build a long range benchrest gun that was not a Dual Port. It will cut the time it takes to get your shots off.
 
I'm using a no turn ptg reamer now, and just skim the necks and love it.

Throat it for the 123 scenar and Berger 130.

Use devcon

Consider a 2oz shilen trigger

Nightforce scope
 
I have to admit I had not given much thought to reamers. just assumed the gunsmith would hande that. excellent idea about keeping the reamer for rebarrels. After spending all that time with a barrel it would be nice to duplicate it as closelty as possible. So what are you looking for in a good reamer and who makes them?
 
After a little reading it appears like I need to decide on what wt of bullets I want to shoot to get the reamer built to match that as ideally as possible. That means I would need a good idea about which would give me the best ballistics. So it seems, ballistics leads to bullet wt then to reamer then refine with optimum hand loads. what say you. And thanks again for all the help here. I really appreciate it.
 
I have had good results with Krieger 4 groove barrels on my 6.5x47 Lapua, 30" long.

For triggers I would recommend none other than a 1.5 oz. Jewell Trigger.

As far as bullets go, I shoot 139 gr. Lapua Scenars since they are very accurate at 300 yards and hold their own at 1000 yard F-Class competitions.

Powder, I used to run RL17, but this year I tried N550 and it is vey accurate, measures better, it gives me single digit ES/SD, and I can reach 2900 fps with the 139's.

I use a dual port action for F-Class, it works good!
 
While they all work well, I like the Lapua 139's as well. At 2900+ they are hard to beat. N150 gives me single digit Extreme Spread & Standard Deviation. My groups are ¼” at 100 yds. and ½” at 200.

My gun was chambered for them. I can shoot 120's and 130's as well.
 
Here's a novel idea! Decide on the components you think you want for your rifle. Discuss this with the 'smith who will do the work. Have the 'smith order the components and allow him to make a profit on them (it might just be that's what helps keep the 'doors open', you'll pay retail buying them elsewhere, anyway. at least give him the chance to compete on prices you've found elsewhere). If your desired chamber is a 'special', order up brass, bullets, and dies and make up 3 or 4 'dumbies'. Discuss tool makers with your 'smith, he may have one he prefers over another. Send those 'dumbies' to the tool maker you've agreed upon so the tool can be made to spec. If it's a 'special' be prepared to 'own' that tool and , maybe , gages too. You're not really 'building' if you dump an arm load of parts on someone and they do the actual 'work'. Do you carry parts to your auto mechanic? have a supply of plumbing parts for the plumber to use when you call one? Just 'food for thought'.
 
Hi,
I'm going down the same road (first build / 6.5x47L), but I'm definitely on a tight budget. So I'm not going to comment on which action or barrel or scope etc.

What I think you need to do first, is pick who is going to put it all together for you first. This is VERY important, as money is not an issue, you are investing in premium components, and you want it to be put together right. You don't take the a Ferrari to "Juffy Lube" for an engine rebuild, do you?

Agree with shortgrass, get the smith to get your components (or at least get him to price them for you). Most good smiths, are very particular and know what they are talking about. If something arrives and its not up to scratch, they'll send it back for another that is. They shoot too, and will be able to give you some ideas from their experience, on which part from where.

Just my thoughts. Good Luck. cheers
 
i don't have a problem with the gunsmith making a profit or buying the parts. I'm seeking advise on the components that make it up and trying to get a consensus on what specs to hand him.
 

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