Help identify Rifle

[Doc22]

Hello , can someone help me identify which model rifle I have. I bought this at my club after the original owner passed. I was told that it is an Anschutz 54. An older model. I have had it a little over year, in that time i had to stop shooting for a few months.
I recently got back into the sport and decided I should check my torque screw settings. WHen I went to look I noticed their is only 1 action screw. Can anyone identify this model. All of my internet searches say Anschutz should have 2 action screw except for certain specialty models.
This is a single shot model, ALso does anyone know the trigger model. I want to know how light the trigger will go.

 

[houligan]

With the silver trigger blade and being adjustable front to rear and back, my guess is it's a 1407-U9. If it has the bell shaped trigger pull adjusting screw in the front, I believe it will be the U9 for sure. I guess it could also be the 1408-U1. It too, is a two stage that adjusts like the U9. Is yours two stage? Are you sure it only has one screw holding the action? It should have one at the trigger guard and one in the forearm at about the second screw hole in the aluminum channel. your photo looks like there is something in that second hole. Action screw? Let us know what you find. If you supply the serial number I think quite a few members can give you the manufacture date and model.

 

[Doc22]

With the silver trigger blade and being adjustable front to rear and back, my guess is it's a 1407-U9. If it has the bell shaped trigger pull adjusting screw in the front, I believe it will be the U9 for sure. I guess it could also be the 1408-U1. It too, is a two stage that adjusts like the U9. Is yours two stage? Are you sure it only has one screw holding the action? It should have one at the trigger guard and one in the forearm at about the second screw hole in the aluminum channel. your photo looks like there is something in that second hole. Action screw? Let us know what you find. If you supply the serial number I think quite a few members can give you the manufacture date and model.

it has a Aftermarket barrel but on the receiver it has the numbers 31057

 

[Lone Hunter]

@Tim Slater
He will know. You need more pictures to help in the ID of your rifle. Nice rifle too..

 

[Tim Slater]

@Doc22 I'd say the rifle is a 1413 (with the LOP hardware removed) or a 1409 (with a rail added to the grip). Either was the s/n suggests it was made in 1962.

The trigger looks to be a 1407-U9 from the blade, although this could be retro-fitted to the earlier 1404-U8. I have a memory there was a single stage trigger with an adjustable blade at this point.

Regarding the bedding bolts, I think I can see two: a slot head in the triggerguard, and a replacement allen/hex head forwards. The front screw is recessed into the fore-end rail, so isn't the most visible.

 

[Doc22]

@Doc22 I'd say the rifle is a 1413 (with the LOP hardware removed) or a 1409 (with a rail added to the grip). Either was the s/n suggests it was made in 1962.

The trigger looks to be a 1407-U9 from the blade, although this could be retro-fitted to the earlier 1404-U8. I have a memory there was a single stage trigger with an adjustable blade at this point.

Regarding the bedding bolts, I think I can see two: a slot head in the triggerguard, and a replacement allen/hex head forwards. The front screw is recessed into the fore-end rail, so isn't the most visible.

awesome thorough explanation, any idea why one of the screws would be hex and the other slotted is that normal?

 

[Tim Slater]

awesome thorough explanation, any idea why one of the screws would be hex and the other slotted is that normal?

The front screw will be a replacement, originally both were slot-heads. It might be factory, Anschutz themselves switched to allen heads in 1980, and most commercial M6 fine are too.

 

[grauhanen]

Tim is right about the serial number indicating a 1962 date for the receiver. The trigger looks like it's a 1407-U9. Basic adjustment instructions are shown below.

 

[Doc22]

Tim is right about the serial number indicating a 1962 date for the receiver. The trigger looks like it's a 1407-U9. Basic adjustment instructions are shown below.


View attachment 1708673

Thank you for the graphic that does help

 

[Doc22]

@Doc22 I'd say the rifle is a 1413 (with the LOP hardware removed) or a 1409 (with a rail added to the grip). Either was the s/n suggests it was made in 1962.

The trigger looks to be a 1407-U9 from the blade, although this could be retro-fitted to the earlier 1404-U8. I have a memory there was a single stage trigger with an adjustable blade at this point.

Regarding the bedding bolts, I think I can see two: a slot head in the triggerguard, and a replacement allen/hex head forwards. The front screw is recessed into the fore-end rail, so isn't the most visible.

Hey Tim, Im not the fastest round in the lot, 1)WHen you say "bedding bolts" do you mean action screw 2) Just so we are clear you are saying the screw on the trigger guard, and the hex screw on the rail are the two bolts I am looking for to adjjust action..

 

[Tim Slater]

Hey Tim, Im not the fastest round in the lot, 1)WHen you say "bedding bolts" do you mean action screw 2) Just so we are clear you are saying the screw on the trigger guard, and the hex screw on the rail are the two bolts I am looking for to adjjust action..

Yes, the slot-headed screw in the front of the triggerguard, and the hex-headed screw recessed into the rail bolt hold the action and stock together. Call these bedding bolts, stock screws, or king screws, it's all the same.

When replacing the stock Anschutz recommend standing the rifle on the butt, muzzle up. This ensures the action/barrel seats against the recoil lug in the stock (abutment in Anschutz speak). If the action has been epoxy bedded, it's possible the lug has been omitted.

 

[kevin nevius]

Yes, the slot-headed screw in the front of the triggerguard, and the hex-headed screw recessed into the rail bolt hold the action and stock together. Call these bedding bolts, stock screws, or king screws, it's all the same.

When replacing the stock Anschutz recommend standing the rifle on the butt, muzzle up. This ensures the action/barrel seats against the recoil lug in the stock (abutment in Anschutz speak). If the action has been epoxy bedded, it's possible the lug has been omitted.

Thanks Tim, love these old(er) Anschutz rifles!

Just wanted to add - the major flaw with these rifles (as they age) is the forward (recessed) screw. It will compress the stock with age, and contact the barrel tennon. Users will torque this screw, not realizing it is bottomed out and strip the action threads. The forward portion of these actions isn't heat treated (so they can be pressed and pinned at the factory), and these threads can be stripped.

Enjoy the rifle,

kev

 

[Doc22]

Thanks Tim, love these old(er) Anschutz rifles!

Just wanted to add - the major flaw with these rifles (as they age) is the forward (recessed) screw. It will compress the stock with age, and contact the barrel tennon. Users will torque this screw, not realizing it is bottomed out and strip the action threads. The forward portion of these actions isn't heat treated (so they can be pressed and pinned at the factory), and these threads can be stripped.

Enjoy the rifle,

kev

HEy Kev, with this being said, is it better to just leave the "bedding bolts" alone so as not to strip the bolts.

 

[Tim Slater]

Thanks Tim, love these old(er) Anschutz rifles!

Just wanted to add - the major flaw with these rifles (as they age) is the forward (recessed) screw. It will compress the stock with age, and contact the barrel tennon. Users will torque this screw, not realizing it is bottomed out and strip the action threads. The forward portion of these actions isn't heat treated (so they can be pressed and pinned at the factory), and these threads can be stripped.

Enjoy the rifle,

kev

Hi Kev,

Thank you. An older shootrr in my region found this out a couple of years ago. He had the habit of slacking off the bolts after shooting, despite using a crush-proof alu stock. It cost him a new 1913 barrel-action.

 

[kevin nevius]

HEy Kev, with this being said, is it better to just leave the "bedding bolts" alone so as not to strip the bolts.

I don't think so, they need to be torqued / tight for the system to shoot well. On that note, the torque values should be tested (there will be an optimal value). I have had several round 54 actioned rifles in my years, some (in my youth) were not bedded, and in wood stocks we always found fairly pronounced bed torque settings.

Unfortunately, there isn't anything you can do to keep old wood from compressing over time, even if you relieve and retorque every time you use it. The best solution is pillar bedding IMHO, aluminum pillars work well with this action. I bed them in one homogenous step, with the pillars attached and torqued to the values I intended to use in competition. That seemed to provide the best / most stress free option.

The easiest option is to just pull the barreled action, start the forward screw and count the revolutions until it bottoms on the tennon. Reinstall it, and make sure you don't go past that value. If you do, you can just shorten the screw keeping at least one revolution as a buffer. You would also have to make sure (if you shorten it) that you don't run out of threads on the other side (the action screws are only threaded a short distance).

Thanks, have a great winter all,

kev