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Help finishing new wood stock

skiutah02

Silver $$ Contributor
New to the wood stock as I have been a die-hard Eliseo chassis user, but I had a beauty made and recently had it bedded, etc. Now looking to protect it. In a past life as a hobby, I built some furniture and have a very nice spray gun for clear, so I am going to jump in and do this myself. Not going to stain it, just clear it.

Am looking for hints from the pros, but some quick questions.

1) Have been suggested that I use a wood filler. Any good suggestions, or at least things to stay away from?
2) I have only used catalyzed conversion varnish. A friend suggested an automobile clear coat. Any thoughts?

I will likely practice on a second stock, so I will hopefully not screw it up too badly. Have read a few prior posts about this topic, but most are 4+ years old so seeing if there is anything new around.

Thanks, Drew
 
IMOP, a simple clear job won't do that figure justice. It's going to need some help to really pop. Someone here can get you going down the right path. Or just turn it over to Bc'z and let him work his magic.
Can't wait to see how it turns out!
 
I can tell you Brett is going to want to do a 4 color dye job on that, either vintage amber or rootbeer, then he'll use a clear sanding sealer primer, followed by a 2 part polyester clear. Its what he told me to do to mine, which has about the same figure. The dark colors from the dye will be only in the curls, lighter colors will be in the plain grain.
 
Had one that needed a redo. Solid wood, no lams. Got tired of looking at the Plain Jane. It had a BC Tru Oil finish for years that I sanded down. The BC acted as a filler.
Had it shot with Automotive Clear. There were colors that jumped out that I never saw till the Auto Clear hit it. Auto Clear, tough as nails.
BUT, that s**t is bad Ju Ju and will make all your babies be born neked so think COVID and wear a mask. A good one!! ;)
 
I'm old school. I'd use aniline dyes and lacquer. I think the light wood might benefit from some yellow/brown dyes diluted way down.
 
I'm old school. I'd use aniline dyes and lacquer. I think the light wood might benefit from some yellow/brown dyes diluted way down.
Dying wood is fun stuff!!
I also use aneline dyes, only I dilute with water. I start strong and sand between coats to expose the hard grain leaving the dye set into the softer grain. My final coat is highly diluted which I dont sand.
On average I'm 7-10 coats of dye of various colors, some blended before applying polyester clear primer, this is blocked flat and reprimed if need be, filling all pores and imperfections.
Finally I apply a polyester clear that I sand and polish to glass.
@BartsBullets JB10001625932596234.jpeg
 
@skiutah02
Ive done a LOT of my own finish work. Ive used everything from “ArrowWood” finish to Epifanes on AAA (and up) walnuts. I’ve also consumed more Auto clear then what’s currently on your truck or car. I’ve spent hours sanding, sealing, blocking, clearing, sanding and buffing then I care to admit.

I’ve got this new technique where I take a beautiful stock (just like yours) and I put the damn thing in a box and send it to this guy in Oregon. “Bumpkin” I think is his name…
Your not going to save much doing it yourself and no one on this site can come close. Do yourself a favor and give Bumpkin a call @Bc'z and talk to him.
 
@skiutah02
Ive done a LOT of my own finish work. Ive used everything from “ArrowWood” finish to Epifanes on AAA (and up) walnuts. I’ve also consumed more Auto clear then what’s currently on your truck or car. I’ve spent hours sanding, sealing, blocking, clearing, sanding and buffing then I care to admit.

I’ve got this new technique where I take a beautiful stock (just like yours) and I put the damn thing in a box and send it to this guy in Oregon. “Bumpkin” I think is his name…
Your not going to save much doing it yourself and no one on this site can come close. Do yourself a favor and give Bumpkin a call @Bc'z and talk to him.
LMFAO
 
Cannot really capture the figuring since it's bare wood, but here's a shot.
Very nice rifle! I like the way Jim Borden does his diamond pattern bolts.
Dyeing can really make the grain in the maple pop - and can be very subtle - so that one doesn't realize its there. Applied as Bc'z describes in post 13 above, the dye will only highlight the grain and not change the overall stock color much at all. I have a laminated birdseye maple stock that I just sanded and applied multiple coats of tung oil. In hindsight, I wish I had used some light dye coats first to bring out the little birdseyes.
 
Dying wood is fun stuff!!
I also use aneline dyes, only I dilute with water. I start strong and sand between coats to expose the hard grain leaving the dye set into the softer grain. My final coat is highly diluted which I dont sand.
On average I'm 7-10 coats of dye of various colors, some blended before applying polyester clear primer, this is blocked flat and reprimed if need be, filling all pores and imperfections.
Finally I apply a polyester clear that I sand and polish to glass.
@BartsBullets JB1000View attachment 1266762
I use your technique on maple to bring out the contrast. On walnut I find it isn't necessary as long as the grain is good. That is one heck of a nice piece of maple on your stock!
 
I love the Xring stocks
Sexy piece of wood you got there.
I'd like to see the full side wype it down with a damp rag to highlight the grain before taking pictures.
You have a good eye for stocks. Thanks for the advice. Gonna mull it over (and send a pic of the wetted stock).
 

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