Help a neck turning novice.please!!!!!!!

[Craigyboy]

Having a wee problem with my neck turning, just trying to do a clean up cut, nothing major just want some opinions. Everywhere I have read about neck turning, one thing has been the same, you need to cut slightly into the neck/shoulder junction to stop doughnutting, I completely understand this but I cant seem to get my neck turning tool setup to just touch the neck/shoulder junction it either just doesnt touch it or cuts nearly the whole shoulder and that just looks very messy, no matter how I adjust the mandrel to set how far down the neck it cuts, it either doesnt touch it or it cuts far too much. I think it may be to do with that the bevel on the cutter in my neck turing tool is very close to the same angel as the shoulder so as soon as it touches at all it goes the whole hog and cuts it all. I have put some pics up as its quite hard to explain. I have the amount I want to take off set up perfect and I am good to go its just this other bit, I was thinking as I am only removing about 0.001 all the way around will I get away with just cutting to the bottom of the neck? I tried setting the tool up to just remove about %70 but the necks on the laupa seem so good if you touch them at all youre cleaning all the way around, loaded necks are coming out at 0.2295 and my chamber neck is .233 so its just about right, just need to sort out this neck/shoulder stuff and I am flying.

you can see from this phot the way its working out

this is the sinclair tool I am using

you can see how close the blade fits the angle

 

[Kodiak99317]

The cut into the shoulder looks really good to me, but you need to use a lube on that mandrel and cutter, Imperial Sizing Die wax is good. Use a qtip and do the inside lightly and a tad on the outside too. You do not want to cut too deep either or you can cut the necks right off!

The way around it is to shorten a "whatever" die and push the shoulder/neck back farther than it should be, neck turn to this new shoulder, mandrel back up larger than the original caliber, then size down to make a false shoulder and fire form it. I've done this for wildcats but it is a ton of work. Easiler to get a inside reamer if a nut appears and cut it out. Plus, if you bullets do not enter the doughnut area, you have no worries. BTW, I've been neck turning for 20 yrs now.

Your math must be off .233" NK ??? .243" NK is a very tight neck in 22 cal and these look like 308's so a .330" NK is a very tight neck'd 308. What are you shooting/forming here?

Plus the last pic looks as if the case is loose on the mandrel..based on the strange cut line/angles. It should be a tight fit. You have to FL size the case first without the expander, then mandrel up with the cutter's mandrel and use a lube.

 

[Craigyboy]

sorry I should have posted its a tactical 20, the close up photos give an illusion that there something big. Thanks for the reply. the bullets will never enter the neck, so maybe I dont need to worry about doughnutting so much.

 

[Craigyboy]

yeah gunamonth I have been using imperial, I just slotted that together for the sake of a photo, I had thought of buffing off the cutter on my grinding wheel, I could probably just buff it off and not worry about it being sharp and only leave a 1/16 of the bevel, maybe it is ok though if you guys reckon its normal then I am happy enough I have just seen a lot of photos where they have just about touched the shoulder and I just couldt get my turner set up like that.

 

[Mark Walker in TX]

I went to a 40 degree cutter head just to address this same issue, and I have been much happier with the results.

The 40 degree heads are avail from Sinclair for $10 or so, IIRC.

 

[Craigyboy]

thanks walker texasranger, ill order one up.

 

[BoydAllen]

I don't think that you have an actual problem. Your cases are just fine as is. For a little background, my 6PPC requires that I turn onto the shoulder just as you have so that the .220 Russian cases will fit into my chamber without excessive force being required to close the bolt. Brass that has been turned that way is part of a package that produces groups in the mid ones when in perfect tune in great conditions. Bottom line, It has not hurt the accuracy one bit. Don't get too excited about that picture. I have seen it, and the reason that we can get away with cutting them that short in short range benchrest is that the bases of our bullets come nowhere near the shoulder. Measure results at the target.

 

[cbonner]

I had the same problem with my 7WSM... The 40 degree cutter was the answer. - Craig