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Heavy 10 First Step - Power

Those are thumbnails. You can click them and the full images will appear.

The switch does say "Forward" and "Reverse". The box is a fused disconnect.

Those are the only electrical components.
 
Those are thumbnails. You can click them and the full images will appear.

The switch does say "Forward" and "Reverse". The box is a fused disconnect.

Those are the only electrical components.
Ok thanks I see them now.
 
So, the remote controls for the VFD would replace the Forward/Reverse switch, and the fused disconnect would just go away (as it would be on the other side of the VFD), right?
 
So, the remote controls for the VFD would replace the Forward/Reverse switch, and the fused disconnect would just go away (as it would be on the other side of the VFD), right?
Yeah the fused disconnect needs to be on line side of VFD. I believe you could rewire the forward/reverse switch into the controls of the VFD if you want to. You’d have to add a POT for your speed control.
 
OK, I'm not an electrician of any sort...... but I bought an old belt-head Bridgeport wired for 440 from a college where it'd been wired as true 3-phase so I had this quandary.

And I bought a cheapo (like 50-70bucks) VFD and left the right/off/left switch on it. I DID NOT buy the cigar-shaped thingy's that allow for instant stoppage......I cannot STOP the rotation quickly nor just hit reverse as some can. I gotta let the mo'chine wind down and at the end of day I turn off the VFD and it winds down for a few minutes as I walk away.

But it took me all of a half hour to figger out how to wire it and I LOVE IT! (Almost as much as the cheapo (Easson) DRO's I installed.)

It's a great hobbyist machine. The VFD and DRO's make it great.

I've also got a Heavy 10 that is set up to just plug and play and it works fine. And I'm seriously thinking of getting a VFD for it, just because.... I'm not even trying to be "helpful" here cuz I'm an infant in arms with this stuff, just sayin' I LIKE VFD'S

At least so far.
 
OK, I'm not an electrician of any sort...... but I bought an old belt-head Bridgeport wired for 440 from a college where it'd been wired as true 3-phase so I had this quandary.

And I bought a cheapo (like 50-70bucks) VFD and left the right/off/left switch on it. I DID NOT buy the cigar-shaped thingy's that allow for instant stoppage......I cannot STOP the rotation quickly nor just hit reverse as some can. I gotta let the mo'chine wind down and at the end of day I turn off the VFD and it winds down for a few minutes as I walk away.

But it took me all of a half hour to figger out how to wire it and I LOVE IT! (Almost as much as the cheapo (Easson) DRO's I installed.)

It's a great hobbyist machine. The VFD and DRO's make it great.

I've also got a Heavy 10 that is set up to just plug and play and it works fine. And I'm seriously thinking of getting a VFD for it, just because.... I'm not even trying to be "helpful" here cuz I'm an infant in arms with this stuff, just sayin' I LIKE VFD'S

At least so far.
So your heavy 10 has a 3 Faze motor on it?....?
 
Yeah the fused disconnect needs to be on line side of VFD. I believe you could rewire the forward/reverse switch into the controls of the VFD if you want to. You’d have to add a POT for your speed control.

I wired my fwd/stop/rev switch right into the low-voltage control side of the VFD.
Same switch, same location , same operation as "pre-vfd".

Far as the dangerous nature of machinery mentioned prior, no doubt.
But belt-drives like SB's are inherently and tremendously safer than a big geared-head.
That's one of the reasons they were the standard in vo-tech and smithing schools- usually no one gets seriously hurt, and the lathe survives when some idiot crashes it hard.

As gunsmiths, we don't need (generally speaking) to tear off 500 thou per pass- which is what a production, job shop might need.
Its about tightness and precision- 1/2 horsepower is all that's needed to work on an. 1-1/4" hollow steel tube!
 
So your heavy 10 has a 3 Faze motor on it?....?
Nope..... it has a standup conduit with an electric meter box sized box up top (4X8X12-ish?) and plugs into 110. I've never looked in the box...but I'm reasonably sure it doesn't have a rotary phase converter in it
 
Nope..... it has a standup conduit with an electric meter box sized box up top (4X8X12-ish?) and plugs into 110. I've never looked in the box...but I'm reasonably sure it doesn't have a rotary phase converter in it
If it’s a single phase motor you can’t use a VFD. Need a 3Faze for that.
 
Wouldn't it be simpler to upgrade your power source. Then have an electrical contractor pull a permit and wire it correctly?
Three phase is rarely available in a residential area and there is usually a charge for three phase power if it is available. A VFD or RPC is much cheaper in the short and long run. Think of permitting , electrical upgrades , then ongoing charges for three phase. A VFD provides many benefits. Variable speed , electric braking , combined with sensors it can stop the threading so you don’t run into the shoulder. Along with the variable speed you can greatly over speed and under speed the motor allowing for higher and lower RPM than would otherwise be available. A VFD is the optimal choice. It takes a little effort to install and learn to use but it opens up a world of capabilities.
 
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I've put probably 12 vfd's on various machines with great results. Usually use the factory on/off/ reversing switch and a pot.


I usually use teco's from dealerselectric.com

I have used a cheap one off Ebay and after figuring out how to program it, and set just about every parameter, it worked great.

I've recently picked up a North American rotary phase converter PL-5. http://www.northamericaphaseconverters.com/shop/category/pro-line-rotary-phase-converters/

Picked a brand new one up from their Ebay store for about $400. They use baldor generators to boot.!

I have not set mine up yet, but I got sick of rewiring machines and figured with the rotary unit, I can just plug and play.
 
I paid $215 for the VFD on my mill. I probably couldn't get an electrician to show up to my house for that much.
20180413_160042.jpg
 
I called the power company about 3 phase. They laughed at me.
 
I called the power company about 3 phase. They laughed at me.
LOL!!!

Yeahhh, THIS part of the question I DO know about. I deal with 4 power companies and 7 different Building Depts and jurisdictions every day.......And I paid over $10,000.00 to get power into my own home, it would have cost me another $6,000.00 to prep for three-phase (which wasn't even AVAILABLE AS AN OPTION until the rock pit next door paid $20,000,000.00 to get it up to the pit..... NOW I could get the exter leg installed, for around $10-12,000.00

BTW I just love the phrase in a prior post "simpler.... contractor pull a permit?"

Again

LOL!!
 
I called the power company about 3 phase. They laughed at me.

I expected as much, as such is usually the case. I don't know where SPJ lives, but having 3-phase service installed in MY state is neither viable or cost effective.
 
That's a big number
Yes it is...

I share my driveway with 2 other property owners, it's a mile long. The first neighbor is only a few hundred yards in, the second property owner hasn't developed a homesite but he was adamant about availability of 3-phase power..... his shop has it and he thinks it should be an option.

Problem is, the main road going by the end of the shared driveway doesn't even have 3 legs available! So this guy paid the electrical contractor to install 3/4mi of 4" Sched 40 and J-Boxes every quarter mile so IN THE EVENT the county upgraded the service along the main road a prospective buyer COULD hopefully install 3-phase someday.

In the meanwhile, yrs passed, a rock quarry was developed with a 2mi haul road that crosses our driveway and they bought 3-phase and ran it up the new road which serendipitously CROSSES EXACTLY AT THE LAST J-BOX! I'm a plan-ahead guy, so is this other fellow on the road...... but in this case it's a simple illustration of "the best laid plans of mice and men ga' oft a'gley" eh!!

THAT'S why I find the "simplicity" angle of "just getting 3-phase" to be funny,

never was directed at you, just sayin' that in MY experience with city/county/state administrations, ain't NUTTIN' ever simple....
 
Wouldn't it be simpler to upgrade your power source. Then have an electrical contractor pull a permit and wire it correctly?
Yeah it would have cost me an additional 3800 to the electric utility in my shop and also the breaker panel is much more expensive.
 

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