I can see where a die with more adjustability to adapting to the case/chamber fit would be more versatile to use. That doesn't make the chamber exactly the same so you could setup and run brass to fit multiable chambering a of the same caliber case design. You would have to change the settings of the die each and every time.
Head Spacing, FL Sizing Die, Shoulder Bump
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I can see where a die with more adjustability to adapting to the case/chamber fit would be more versatile to use. That doesn't make the chamber exactly the same so you could setup and run brass to fit multiable chambering a of the same caliber case design. You would have to change the settings of the die each and every time.
I use a lot of surplus brass. Lake City range brass is particularly troublesome. I set the die to bottom out against the ram, and then "cam over" just a bit. Sometimes the brass is still stubborn. I am not set up to anneal, so the brass which doesn't size properly, I sell off or it becomes scrap. All my chambers are very tight.
Also, I found that with the stubborn Lake City brass, my full length sizing die wasn't getting the job done at all... at first. I turned .015 off the bottom of the die. That did the trick for 90% of the brass.
I don't seem to have as many stubborn pieces with Winchester or any other brand of brass. Everyone knows the Lake City stuff is thicker.
Also, I found that with the stubborn Lake City brass, my full length sizing die wasn't getting the job done at all... at first. I turned .015 off the bottom of the die. That did the trick for 90% of the brass.
I don't seem to have as many stubborn pieces with Winchester or any other brand of brass. Everyone knows the Lake City stuff is thicker.
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Not for me. I do not grind the top of shell holders, I do not grinding the bottom of a die. I have never found it necessary.
I do not have tiny chambers; I have created the problem first. I have started with short chambers; seems a short chamber is fashionable with new barrels and then there is that option when setting a barrel back. I always want to know where I am at all times.
When I create the problem first I do not have a shell holder and or die or any combination of die and or shell holder that will allow me to correct/adjust the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head.. I use the common, ordinary, every day full length die and shell holder; any brand, my favorite is RCBS because they have a loose fit.
The loose fit of the RCBS shell holder allows me to size cases for short chambers. The go gage length chamber for the 30/06 has .005” clearance between the case head and bolt face. When I form short cases I add .012” clearance. For those that are keeping up that is .017” shorter than a minimum length/full length sized case when measured from the shoulder of the case to the case head.
Then there is this other problem I do not have. My favorite case is a case that is too long from the shoulder to the case head. Before I mindlessly start cranking out cases I measure the length of the cases from the shoulder to the case head. Measure before and again after firing; measure before sizing and again after sizing. If I am going to size a case to fit a chamber I need to know the length of the chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face.
Without grinding the top of the shell holder or bottom of the die I size cases for short chamber; that would be .012” shorter than a go gage length chamber. Then there is the long chamber; I size cases for chambers that are long from the shoulder of the chamber to the bolt face. There is practical when sizing cases for long chambers. When sizing cases for long chambers I choose .016” longer than a go-gage length chamber. Without grinding the shell holder and or die I can size a case to any length between what is referred to as being short and or long to any thousands between long and short.
I do not get tangled up in case spring back because I can measure the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head.
Cam over; I have presses that cam over, I have presses that do not cam over. Before the Internet my cam over presses were referred to as being ‘bump’ presses. Methods and techniques; when adjusting my bump presses I use a different method than I do when adjusting my non cam over presses.
F. Guffey
As a first step I subject all my once fired .223 brass to a small base .223 resize die in the process to make .20 Practical ammo. This makes for a good fit. At times I have had brass that when just sized using my Redding .223 FL bushing die with a .226 bushing, the brass body near mid length has been tight enough to prevent normal seating confusing the situation with insufficient head space.
I after the process of sizing and neck reduction and neck turning and trimming, I chamber each round with a bolt stripped of spring and firing pin hoping to feel just a slight resistance upon closing the bolt.
I only have found it necessary to grind the top or a shell holder down as a first step in fitting 6mm Rem brass in a 6mm AI chamber that was designed to fire form crush fit brass. In this case the chamber was excessively short and it was impossible to chamber un modified new brass.
Other brass does not get small base sized. Belted brass is head-spaced on shoulder vs belt using a home made headspace gauge and calipers.
I think I need a 6mm Dasher.
I after the process of sizing and neck reduction and neck turning and trimming, I chamber each round with a bolt stripped of spring and firing pin hoping to feel just a slight resistance upon closing the bolt.
I only have found it necessary to grind the top or a shell holder down as a first step in fitting 6mm Rem brass in a 6mm AI chamber that was designed to fire form crush fit brass. In this case the chamber was excessively short and it was impossible to chamber un modified new brass.
Other brass does not get small base sized. Belted brass is head-spaced on shoulder vs belt using a home made headspace gauge and calipers.
I think I need a 6mm Dasher.
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My thoughts are that by head-spacing brass on the belt - upon firing the brass will be stretched then subsequent sizing will compress the brass and after 5 or so loadings a head separation might occur. I like to ignore the belt and treat the full length sizing like any other rimless cartridge, size on the shoulder. Eventually a small bulge will appear just in front of the belt but usually that does not cause much of a problem. On resizing I use a .010 feeler gauge between the shell holder and die. I use a cut off portion of a take off barrel with chamber and calipers to set the die so my headspace is done on the cartridge shoulder vs. the belt.
I am of the impression that the belt was put on certain slopey shouldered cases like the .375 H&H to provide head space.
The belt on a cartridge seems to be kind off useless - thus .300 WSM, .26, .28, .30 Noslers, .300 Ultra Mag and so on. My first belted head rifle a .338 Win mag came with a gauge like the one I made up.
I am of the impression that the belt was put on certain slopey shouldered cases like the .375 H&H to provide head space.
The belt on a cartridge seems to be kind off useless - thus .300 WSM, .26, .28, .30 Noslers, .300 Ultra Mag and so on. My first belted head rifle a .338 Win mag came with a gauge like the one I made up.
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