hard bolt lift

[Link]

SFGUY

I am jamming so as I get lil square marks. Not a measurement some like, I know.
The brass chambers nicely using the #10. gives me .003 bump.
I will back down on powder and jam [1 at a time] and see what happens

thanks.

 

['Freak]

If the -.008” shell holder and that die had given you an honest .005” bump then it follows that the -.006” shell holder and without touching the die ought to return a .007” shoulder mega bump. If not but the standard -.000” shell holder gives you an honest .003” bump then the shoulders were never touching one another when using the -.008” shell holder.

If the standard holder now gets you a .003” bump then the -.002” shell holder supposed to make that a .001”.

 

[searcher]

If I caught that correctly, while the brass is only fired one time in your rifle - it was fired previously (assumably in a different rifle). This could be the cause of the problem. Easty way to find out is shoot a few rounds with this load with either fresh brass or brass that has only previously been fired in your rifle. Process of elimination.

 

[LHSmith]

The Redding Competition S/H's are PLUS (+) NOT <-> ...they are thicker than a standard S/H which should be .125" from the bottom of the case head cut to the top of the s/h. Putting a minus sign with these will thoroughly confuse people. No manufacturer makes a "thinner" (minus size) S/H ....at least not intentionally.

 

[Old Navy]

I bought the competition set to prevent over bumping the shoulders. The chamber was cut too long. I ended up using the +10 to get the right bump with a little cam over. I am using the +4 on this barrel. Later! Frank

 

['Freak]

Reckon it’ll all depend on how folk is looking at a Redding competition shell holder as to whether they might decide to sign it using a plus for how the thing does what it does or maybe they’ll use a minus for what this thing is actually accomplishing.

 

[LHSmith]

I did the trick I read about using a locked caliper as a go - no go gage at the web and both sized and fired cases seem the same.

Try using the locked caliper at a point 1/4 " below the shoulder on an unsized fired case, then size it using .002 or .003 (at most) bump, making sure the case body is evenly lubed above the shoulder, and using the same locked caliper, a properly FL sized case should end up 1/8" further down the case body. This works for PPC and BR cases.
Bolt click on opening = base (area ahead of web) is too tight in chamber
Bolt click on closing = shoulder needs to be pushed back.

 

[Link]

Well guys I backed off a full grain to 33.4 and the bolt lift is ok with .003 of bump.
However I lost some accuracy. Now I will bring it back up and see if I can find a more accurate node, then work on jump and oal. I guess it was a combo of changing bullets and a little more jam. You never know.

Every time something confuses me I hope I learn a little something.

thanks to all.

 

[JBO]

Take firing pin assembly out of the bolt and chamber a F/L sized case. If you encounter any resistance when closing bolt, bump shoulder back .001" and try again. Do this until bolt just closes on a F/L sized case.

What he said!

 

[bsekf]

You have tried about everything, so my comments may be moot. I was having that problem with a 22/250, I had used the brass in a ladder test so some were hot. Brass chambered Ok, but bolt lift was hard and sometimes the case stuck in the chamber....had to bump the bolt handle. I measured the web area of the cases and found they were over sized by .0015, ran the cases into a 444 Marlin die and that reduced the web measurement and no more problem with bolt lift. My story and I'm sticking to it. Hot loads did not spring back and my FL die didn't size the web and the 444 Marlin did. By running lower pressure my brass is getting enough spring back to eject easily. I am watching that brass for signs of case separation.