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"Hanging" or Ageing Game Birds

Downeast

Gold $$ Contributor
Not sure where to post this but since hunting and cooking seem to go hand in hand I posted it here.

I just finished cleaning some ducks and I had two Wood Ducks that were shot on October 25 during our early season. I just kept putting it off until this morning when I cleaned the birds I took this past Monday. These two Woodies have been hanging by the bill, guts and all, for 26 days...nearly four weeks, at a temp of around 36 degrees F. I cleaned them last, thinking that they would be bad. When I breasted them out they were fine, with no bad odor or anything! They had none of the "ducky" odor that we normally associate with freshly killed ducks, like those I shot this past Monday. To say I was surprised is an understatement.

Just thought I would pass it on for those of you who may have thought about ageing game birds. I guess there is something about aging red meat. I know it is common in "gourmet" circles to age beef (prime) and other red meats, including wild ducks and geese. I'm going to cook them separately and see if there is a difference.

My go-to way to cook duck is a cast iron skillet, salt and pepper, a few sprigs of rosemary, and real butter. Cook rare to maybe medium rare, slice thin, and eat before they get cold. Dribble a balsamic vinegar/fruit reduction over it if you want to get fancy.
 
There was a point in time that Fowl was left hanging by its head/neck on a hook to "age". It wasn't deemed properly aged until the the head separated from the neck (carcass dropped free) as the muscle and connective tissue had broken down sufficiently. Yeah... Nope. I'll eat my body weight in fried goose gizzards or Sushi... but rancid fowl is not on my list.

Your aging process in mild climate that is hovering around freezing is very close to conditions in your refrigerator. Should be safe.

We used to shoot a lot of wood duck along the river bottom. They spent plenty of time eating pecans and acorns, which left their meat a deep deep purple color. It was amazing and all but inedible. Our solution was Duck Gumbo. We would add dried mint leaves to smooth out the stronger flavor. It was a crowd pleaser and everyone assumed the wood duck meat was beef. :) Damn... now I'm hungry
 
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I don't like the thought of the "no gut" thing since the guts are often perforated by pellets which might allow gut juice to migrate into the meat.

I absolutely agree with your method of cast iron sauté on the rare side. I also use a little garlic.

The only time to over cook a duck is with the legs, and the less desirable species, and then in a sauce of wine and golden mushroom soup until falling apart tender. That method would probably also work for a badger. :) jd
 
The only time to over cook a duck is with the legs, and the less desirable species, and then in a sauce of wine and golden mushroom soup until falling apart tender. That method would probably also work for a badger. :) jd

Having spent some time in a few kitchens learning a tiny bit of the ins and outs of how the French manage some forms of cooking, I did ferret out the process of confit, slow cooking in fat. Duck legs/thighs slow cooked in duck fat then crisping the skin in a hot oven is a marvelous method of creating a dish which will amaze and delight you!

;)
 
I typically let my pheasants rest 2-3 days before cleaning them. Then I brine the meat for at least 12hr. I've noticed a huge difference in the quality of birds. Wife prefers the results of this method as well.
 
I always brine ducks before cooking them. I don't care much for baked duck - its just ok. But I do make a great duck pot pie and it also makes a fantastic potato soup made with cream or half & half. Pressure cook them filled with wedges of apple, oranges, onions, and some celery. Pull the meat. You can also make a sandwich of that pulled duck moistened with some of the juice from the pot and some mayonnaise. Duck Pot Pie.jpg
 
I age them hanging if it's cold enough but always gut, wash and dry the inside before hanging. The guts and blood are wear most of the bacteria are that make meat go bad. Plus by gutting them it helps them to cool faster than letting the heat from the guts fester in there. I have tried a few with the guts I years ago and found the to go bad, they didn't smell that bad but you could see the color of things starting to turn a greenish color.
 
I watch the Robertson Family podcast all the time, "Unashamed". Those guys love the Lord, they're Biblical ninjas, and they cook and eat a ton of wild game, especially ducks. I've never heard them talk about hanging a duck for any amount of time. They're a bunch of bumpkins like me, and I guess we're prolly just not sophisticated enough to appreciate the benefit. jd
 
In South Africa we shot half a dozen francolins with a 22LR, gave them to the Blacks at the lodge. They let them sit on the table for five days ungutted at room temperature. I asked about it, "That’s how they like their meat."
No thank you.
 
If I'm not brining birds, I try to always dry age them. Even commercial chicken, Cornish hens, eurasian doves, etm. Minimum overnight, but usually a day or two. Fridge stored, open to dry with skin on, you'll get the crispiest skin, best browning and smoothest flavor ever. If you add in dry brining, it'll be the most tender meat you have tried.

Omega above posted a link to Honest Food site, Hank Shaw knows his stuff and I highly recommend checking out his site or even picking up one or more of his cook books. I don't hunt very much anymore, but his methods and recipes are fantastic.
 
+1 on Hank Shaw! Have all his books and they are excellent! Very good reads on prep and cooking wild game and some awesome recipes also!
 
+1 on Hank Shaw! Have all his books and they are excellent! Very good reads on prep and cooking wild game and some awesome recipes also!

I think all of this falls into the category of broadening our range of thinking about hunting, handling and cooking game. It's always better to listen to and read about others experiences when it comes to handling game. A lot of my experiences have been greatly influenced by acquaintances and friends who have a different viewpoint and experience.

A man I used to work for gave me an 'antique' (read OLD) cook book covering Medieval cooking. It was in that style of very difficult to read English. But, some of the recipes and thinking intrigue me. I do have to find the time for quiet in order to concentrate on the writing and the concepts. Some ideas are easy to reject while others bear careful thinking and planning in order to try.

Enjoy the variety!
 

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