Hand Rub Oil Finish?

[mattri]

Have ordered a stock or an upcoming build, it is maple with a lot of fiddleback.

I'm looking at various ways to finish it and would like some more information on a hand rub oil finish.

I've done some basic searches but haven't found much. Looking for a tutorial, instructions, pros and cons etc. thanks. Matt.

 

[mikegaiz]

I use Birchwood Casey True Oil, and 0000 steal wool, 10 to 20 coats. ;D

 

[mattri]

Looks great! What's the process for application, sealing, buffing etc? Dos/don'ts?

 

[Bob3700]

Is the stock to be used for a hunting rifle or competition rifle?

Hunting, then the oil finish is good. For a competition rifles, I prefer auto clear coat.

Bob

 

[huffmanite]

Never used the True Oil as suggested earlier. Basically, I either use Olympic Antique Oil or Minwax Wiping Polyurethane. Both you can find at a Lowes. The Antique oil is a form of boiled linseed oil with fortifiers, dryers and etc. The Wiping polyurethane is as the name suggests, just a thin version of polyurethane you apply with a piece of cloth. I dislike dealing with runs from brushing on a finish, so prefer wiping on a finish, no matter how many coats it takes. Mind you, the Antique oil is basically for furniture (interior use), but depending on the wood and how open is its grain, I might brush it on, let it soak into the wood and then I might take a very fine grit (320/400) wet sandpaper and work the wood with the grain before the oil tacks up. Then I wipe off the excess. Not unusual for me to apply the Antique Oil first, do the sanding thing to fill the grain, let dry well, sand lightly and then apply at least 3 coats of the wiping poly over it..

Above works for me. FWIW, I make my own stocks and occasionally make one for a fellow private rifle range member who wants a stock for benchrest shooting or has a rifle difficult to find a replacement stock for.

 

[mattri]

Rifle will be for hunting. It's actually for my wife so will be brought out a few times a year. Really looking for the best looking finish possible. Any links to step by steps would be great, thanks.

 

[itchyTF]

Arrow Wood finish is another option.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3805987.0


Comments on it from another forum (if that's permissible) -

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/gunsmithing-sponsored-by-4-d-reamer-rentals/anyone-use-arrow-wood-finish-deluxe/

 

[mattri]

Awesome thanks.

 

[Rustystud]

Hand rubbed oil finish can provide two different finishes. One being a brilliant clear coat type. Or a satin finish. Hand rubbed finishes go on and off with multiple applications. Very good but labor intensive.

Polyurethane or Polycynate auto finishes can be beautiful but seal the wool. They also require a respirator if sprayed. Sprayed coats look better than hand/brush applied.

Wood is a cellulose material and needs to breath.

If you do a hand rubbed oil finish don't rush it. let it dry for several days between applications. Put it on in thin coats. If you have it done by a qualified person plan on paying for their time, it is not a cheap finish. It requires a lot of elbow grease.
Nat Lambeth

 

[Nvreloader]

This site has a local guru (30yrs+ Sherman Williams Paint Co), goes by the handle of "Noremf".

It would be worth your time/trouble to read his posts, lots of EXCELLENT info.

See site info here:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=275

He has helped me.

Tia,
Don

 

[letronshootit]

+1 for Arrow, easy to use or repair. You have probably scene it demoed at gun shows..

 

[gotcha]

Hi Matt, www.riflebuilders.com/finish.html I use a slightly modified version of this process on Laminate and straight walnut. Have never tried on Maple but don't think you'd have any problem.

 

[p-man]

Try this link - this is what I've been doing for years and there is no comparison with any other methods - all of the gun guild guys and other custom professional stock makers use this method or something very similar

https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037

 

[mikegaiz]

To each their own, and everyone likes something else. I have 30 year old guns with tru-oil finish that are heavily used and look like new. oil will not chip or nick like auto finish. With oil you can just steel wool the ding and re-coat, will look like new. Oil will hold up. I guess all the military guns (oil finish) are not to be used in rain????

 

[WindSurgeon]

Pick up an old used stock and try some of these suggestions. I have used tongue oil in the past with great success. Both for a full refinish and repairs to hunting guns. The stock will have a kimber like finish when done. It takes six coats to get that nice satin look that has a bit of sheen, but not glossy. Let each coat sit for at least 6 hours before applying another. Don't let any pool on the stock in one place. No need to use 000 or 0000 steel wool between coats as some products require. Wipe on, Wipe off as the master says. Will last a long time and if you get a scratch it is easy to repair by just rubbing the stock down again with some oil. It will work right over stain if you stain it with oil based stain.

A good tech tip if you want an antique look is to apply some black oil base paint to the stock, let it sit a minute and then wipe it it off with acetone. Don't let the paint sit long. You can always add more. Then start applying your tongue oil after it has dried out. The black slightly penetrates the wood grain and makes it look old.

As stated, if the first time, try it on something you don't care about first.