,first post) Befor asking my question let my bow slightly and tip my hat to the gentelmen gunsmiths on this site. Job well done. I've been all over the web searching for gun knowledge and I am impressed to no end to what I've found here.
My question is about hand lapping an extremely rough factory barrel on a remington 597 semi-auto 22LR.
I should also give a bit of background on the progression of this rifle. When I bought it and first took it to the range the gun would shoot 6" groups at 50yards,when I could get it to cycle). after disassembling the gun and polishing the rear of the bolt where it contacts the hammer when cycled, opening the groove for the striker so it wouldn't rub on the bottom of the bolt, and sanding the stock to remove horizontal pressure on the barrel and tightening the block that hold the barrel into the action, drilling through the reciever body and putting a set screw under the sear spring,so I can adjust the trigger pressuer externally) and installing a volqortsen extractor... the rifle now cycles consistantly and shoots 2-3" groups at 50 yards. I would like to see better but I will not put a $180 dollar barrel on a $150 gun.
I plan on first making a cerrosafe casting of the barrel to check the actual bore size,I'm hoping you could relay what it should be) and if it's acceptably tight enough to then make a lead casting to use with abrasives to lap the barrel. I'm not real worried about damaging the crown or throat as I've allready figured they are both sub-standard and will need redone eventually. If you could help me with technique/procedure I would greatly appreciate your help.
Also on a side note the cold bore shot will usually be 4" low and 1" left then work it's way up to zero in about four rounds and I've found that higher velocity heavier rounds are much more accurate with this gun,cci mini-mags solid point). Any help fixing this would be an added bonus.
My question is about hand lapping an extremely rough factory barrel on a remington 597 semi-auto 22LR.
I should also give a bit of background on the progression of this rifle. When I bought it and first took it to the range the gun would shoot 6" groups at 50yards,when I could get it to cycle). after disassembling the gun and polishing the rear of the bolt where it contacts the hammer when cycled, opening the groove for the striker so it wouldn't rub on the bottom of the bolt, and sanding the stock to remove horizontal pressure on the barrel and tightening the block that hold the barrel into the action, drilling through the reciever body and putting a set screw under the sear spring,so I can adjust the trigger pressuer externally) and installing a volqortsen extractor... the rifle now cycles consistantly and shoots 2-3" groups at 50 yards. I would like to see better but I will not put a $180 dollar barrel on a $150 gun.
I plan on first making a cerrosafe casting of the barrel to check the actual bore size,I'm hoping you could relay what it should be) and if it's acceptably tight enough to then make a lead casting to use with abrasives to lap the barrel. I'm not real worried about damaging the crown or throat as I've allready figured they are both sub-standard and will need redone eventually. If you could help me with technique/procedure I would greatly appreciate your help.
Also on a side note the cold bore shot will usually be 4" low and 1" left then work it's way up to zero in about four rounds and I've found that higher velocity heavier rounds are much more accurate with this gun,cci mini-mags solid point). Any help fixing this would be an added bonus.