H335 starting point for 223 rem

[Kevin1990]

So I bought a Howa mini in 223 rem and was going to have it re-barreled to a 20 vartarg, but I figured I'd give it a go and see what kind of accuracy I could get with it.

Went to the range quick today just to see if it would pressure out. I started at 22.5 and went to 25.8 with no pressure signs at all.

On my jug of H335 it says a max load for the 55gr bullet would be 25.3gr Nosler's manuel goes to 25gr. Hodgden goes to 27, my lyman book, also goes to 27.3 I believe.

So all that said, if you were working up a load with a 55gr vmax, blitzking, etc., what would be your starting point with H335?

Thanks fellas?

 

[Doom]

H335 is temperature sensitive so don't push it. Most Varmint bullets are happy around 25 gn. FMJ might be a little lower. Back when I used it my absolute max was 26 gn. Went above it with Sierra Edition 5 data for 53 gn MK and it took a mallet and wood block to get the bolt open on a hot day.

 

[timeout]

I have owned a couple of .223's that ran 26.5 gr. of 335 with no issues shooting 55 grain flat base soft points. That being said, work up your loads .2 grains at a time preferably in the warmest temperatures that you will ever be shooting at. Since you have already shot 25.8 without pressure signs why not start there and go up a tenth or 2 tenths at a time?

 

[Kevin1990]

I have owned a couple of .223's that ran 26.5 gr. of 335 with no issues shooting 55 grain flat base soft points. That being said, work up your loads .2 grains at a time preferably in the warmest temperatures that you will ever be shooting at. Since you have already shot 25.8 without pressure signs why not start there and go up a tenth or 2 tenths at a time?

I suppose I could do that, but I was just wondering what a good starting point would be. I have several rifles that shoot best well below max charge weights, and I probably wont end up going above 26gr because its just a plinker and i'm trying to to get as many reloads out of my brass as possible.

 

[joshb]

I would start at 23.5 and go up in .3 increments to 26.5 and test on targets. I find most of my accuracy below max, which is good with H335. It does spike a little in the heat.

 

[timeout]

I suppose I could do that, but I was just wondering what a good starting point would be. I have several rifles that shoot best well below max charge weights, and I probably wont end up going above 26gr because its just a plinker and i'm trying to to get as many reloads out of my brass as possible.

I like to know what my max load is and shoot a 300 yard test at the same time looking for charge nodes. After doing that I test for accuracy by shooting groups and changing seating depths. Lots of ways to skin a cat, this just happens to be my way.

 

[lb-ft]

joshb above gave the exact advice I would give in this case.

I’ll add that in Sierra load data and Nosler as well, they will give the charge weight that was most accurate. I work up to that number myself and it’s uncanny how my results mirror theirs for most accurate load.

 

[K22]

I used H335 many years ago in my 223 bolt rifles for varmint hunting. It produced some extremely small groups in my precision bolt rifles with 55 grain Vmax bullet at 25.0 grain with Remington 7 1/2 primers.

However, I stopped using it because I got pressure surges in the field during the hot summer months where I was exposed to direct sunlight. If you are shooting at a range under cover, this may not be an issue. Don't start at 25.0 grain, work up slowly from published data, preferably from the bullet manufacturer, being vigilante of pressure signs.

Another feature I discovered with ball powders is that they are more sensitive, precision wise, than extruded powders for small changes in powder charge and temperature changes.