H-S Precision stock bedding

[Switchbarrel]

I'm sure this is out there somewhere, I've searched and read pages and pages but not
seen what I'm looking for...


I have an old H-S Precision stock from a Remington VS rifle that I'm putting a Kelbly Atlas action with a #7 contour barrel into. I've opened the barrel channel, cut out space for the side bolt release and filled in the magwell with lead. I will wrap the barrel with tape to get the proper spacing to free float the barrel with the bedding compound.

This being my first attempt at bedding, what I can't find is info regarding the rear tang area. Without some sort of spacer/riser in there, what does everyone do to keep the bedding material from completely squeezing out? I intend to dremel the block to roughen it up for better adherence but not sure what else to do. The only reference's I've seen in a couple of posts is what I'm concerned about, the bedding is so thin there that it flakes out.

Tips/tricks/suggestions that worked for you much appreciated.

-Rick

 

[LHSmith]

If you use a good grade of epoxy ( I prefer Marine Tex Gray) mix it well in a manner that does not trap air -causing bubbles-, degrease the surfaces, and of course use a release agent on the barreled action....you should not have a "chipping" problem. I use Simonize wax and coat the stock ...buff it off and then mask off the stock. The trick is to apply "just enough" epoxy to each area and let it ooze out, while cleaning the excess off with popsicle sticks and Q-tips saturated with vinegar. First attempts usually result in not enough epoxy and therefore voids in the bedding.....ooze out is good.....no ooze out is bad. It is also important to make sure the action screws have plenty of radial clearance with the bedding block holes, using plenty of release agent on these screws and inside the corresponding holes , and the screws be run in until both just hits snug. Wrap tape around the barrel to center in the channel, and build a dam with tape after the recoil lug where you want the bedding to stop. Tape the bottom of the recoil lug with 3 layers of tape (make sure the recesses are deep enough), tape 1 layer on sides of lug (all the way up past stock line), and 1 layer on muzzle side of lug. Stand back and eyeball that the barrel runs parallel with the stock to verify you have it right.
I keep my leftover epoxy mix at hand and when it starts to get pretty stiff , I back out the screws a half turn and return to snug-one at a time...just to make sure it will come apart...I do this several times throughout the drying period. Biggest problem is epoxy being forced up through front action screw into recoil lug area.....Watch for this...and wipe out any epoxy with Q-tips right away before it hardens...also a good idea to coat this area with lots of release agent.

 

[jonbearman]

I also mill slots into the v-block all along the length and tang area to hold more compound to make it stay. I have done 2 0r 3 stocks using the 1/9th slots and it works beautifully.

 

[LHSmith]

John's idea above is a great idea.....if you don't have access to a mill, simply use a Dremel tool to create grooves to get a more substantial bed of epoxy.

 

[Switchbarrel]

Yeah, sadly no mill. Dremel it is. Really my only concern is the rear tang area. With no pillars or anything setting proud from the aluminum betting block for the action to rest on, I'm afraid all the bedding material will get squeezed out whether I screw the action down or use some sort of elastic ties to hold the action down in place.

 

[LHSmith]

If your uncomfortable with the durability of a thin skim coat, then gouge or drill a bunch of holes in the tang area.....just leave enough (perhaps at the very perimeter of the tang) to keep close to the original margin lines. Eyeball this "meeting line" closely, as a gunsmith told me sometimes the HS stocks have the Aluminum insert molded in so poorly, they actually have the barrelled action canted upward / or/ downward so much that it was obvious.

 

[MGYSGT]

I just drill out the tang hole about a 1/4 inch deep. Also, go to the hardware store and get some long replacement bolts for the action and cut the heads off. Then you can just screw them in and not worry about expoy getting into the threads of the reciever. I don't believe you have to tighten the action down when the bedding is still soft. A light wrap of electrical tape over the reciever does just fine for me. Just make sure the action is horzontial/level in the stock. Those bolts you put in the action will help line everything up. I use shoe paste wax for a release agent. Just brush it on like a pair of shoes, but don't buff it off. Clean up is easy.

Tom

 

[devildogandboy]

i don't know if you have read this article but i consider it one of the most informative. hope this helps some.

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/