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Grizzly G509G Lathe

I have the 1440bv and SB10k. In hindsight I'd do a gearbox 14" lathe and run a freq drive. I love being able to dial rpms on the fly when metric threading, but it comes at the cost of a dedicated clutch/brake and manual gears.

Comparing the finish and details between the PM and SB is like the difference between a printed part and a precision ground part.

The PM does cut very accurately and is fully functional.....but it's no classic American iron.

Precision Matthews offers both Chinese and Taiwan made machines. The 1440bv is Chinese made. The 1340GT and the 1440GT are Taiwan made and there is a world of difference between Chinese made and Taiwan made.
 
" I love being able to dial rpms on the fly when metric threading,"

Why would a variable rpm during a threading operation be used on metrics threads, as opposed to any other thread?
When returning to the start with the half nuts engaged I can run up rpm higher than I'm comfortable threading with.....saves time. It's also handy when a reamer is being ornery being able to come up on the rpm instantly and smoothly.
 
When returning to the start with the half nuts engaged I can run up rpm higher than I'm comfortable threading with.....saves time. It's also handy when a reamer is being ornery being able to come up on the rpm instantly and smoothly.

so what does that have to do with metric threads? i’m confused
 
so what does that have to do with metric threads? i’m confused
If you have an imperial lathe, you have to leave the half nuts engaged when cutting metric threads. This means that you have to reverse the lathe, to back out for the next pass. If you can crank up the speed, the back-out goes faster.
 
So how do you start a pass at 700 rpm with the half nuts engaged?

I press the forward button.

Threading with VFD controlled to a relief using the proximity sensor, I have to set the speed I want to thread and never adjust it from that point on. Keep the split nuts engaged all the time. After the pass, retract, press the prox bypass and reverse switch simultaneously. I thread with the cross slide on this little guy with the compound locked down. For a long time I had the compound set for the 223 Remington case taper, and I kept the set up. I got used to threading with the cross slide that I still do it though the compound has been reset. I have another lathe dedicated for 223 work.

Watch "25 Feb '21 Jet 1024 Threading with Proximity Sensor" on YouTube

I have threaded anywhere from 30 rpms through 700 with the proximity sensor. I am not in the business, just hacking at it, I do what I feel like with no timetable to meet. Learning something everyday.

This one I threaded 2 days ago using the jog button in the same 90s vintage Jet 1024 using the cross slide and laydown carbide. Never used HSS, did not learn how to grind one.

Resized_20210402_155824.jpeg
 
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I just ran across a PM 1440-tl that’s all but new is about a hr drive from me. Im thinking all go have a look at it and see how long the head stock is. Looks like a pretty nice made machine. Anyone been around this lathe?
 
Well that’s a little long. Looks like a nice machine and it’s at a very good price with extra tooling It’s never cut metal just some plastic. my 0509g is plenty long as is. I’ve made extension for doing shorter barrels
 
Alex I’d like to see a video of your m300 some time running. I wish I new someone close that had one to go look at. Thats the one I’ve really been eyeing for a while
 
Alex I’d like to see a video of your m300 some time running. I wish I new someone close that had one to go look at. Thats the one I’ve really been eyeing for a while
In my mind the M300 is the perfect gunsmithing lathe. Others work for sure but out of all it has to offer it seems to me to be the top. I was able to test and use one years ago while visiting a gunsmith that had one. I couldn't find one that suited me and gave up at least for now. I may try again to source one someday.
 
Newbs... dont try this at home
Full disclosure. I have a clone of the Hardinge tool room lathe. It has electronic threading so it sincs itself, no looking at a threading dial. And it cuts to a stop, so no kicking it out in an undercut before the shoulder. The compound also has a lever to retract the tool. It is the slickest machine for cutting threads without going full cnc that I have seen. That is some of what you get when spending the extra money.
 

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