Grind to fit

[Caleb85]

what is the best way to grind a decelerator pad? Bench grinder or belt sander? Thanks.

 

[jkohler]

A bench belt sander and it also really helps to have a jig to bolt the pad to. I really don't like limbsaver pads. Never can get a nice finish on them

 

[Caleb85]

View attachment 978028 A bench belt sander and it also really helps to have a jig to bolt the pad to. I really don't like limbsaver pads. Never can get a nice finish on them

I thought pachmayr made the decelerator ? Not limbsaver?

 

[jkohler]

Your right on the decelerator. I was really just saying I hate limbsavers. Wd40 helps get a nice finish on the pads as well

 

[Caleb85]

Your right on the decelerator. I was really just saying I hate limbsavers. Wd40 helps get a nice finish on the pads as well

Oh gottcha! Thank you.

 

[joshb]

I just use a good palm sander.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Grind to fit, paint it to match

 

[Caleb85]

Has anyone ever used a bench grinder?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

You really need a sander. I dont think a grinding wheel is ideal

 

[Mike Casselton]

Grind to fit, paint it to match

I thought it was;
Beat it to fit,
Paint it to match. ;^)

 

[Big Mc]

what is the best way to grind a decelerator pad? Bench grinder or belt sander? Thanks.

Hammer to fit.. Paint To Match.. Tommy c Mc..

 

[Caleb85]

Hammer forged recoil pads!!!

 

[JRS]

Use a disc sander (you need a ridged backing) with very light pressure. Getting in a hurry and applying too much pressure will result in a mess.

 

[jkohler]

A bench grinder will more than likely give you a hollow edge. The wheel will just clog up also. A belt or large disc sander Is the way to go.

 

[JRS]

The easiest and most accurate way is to make a template of the butt on your stock and attach the template to the pad. Sand the pad to the template. The end result is a perfect fit that follows the contour of the stock.

Another little trick that helps is to put the pad in your freezer overnight. The rubber gets hard and doesn't flex while you sand it. To bring back the color after sanding, wipe the pad down with lemon oil.

 

[BoydAllen]

First step, sand the backing that will touch the stock flat (stationary belt or large disc sander) and check its fit against the stocks butt,which may also need flatening, then you can mount the pad and draw around the shape of the butt, remove the pad and grind to the line, then remount the pad, wrap the butt with a couple of layers of masking tape, and very carefully grind the pad along with the outside layer of tape. This can be most easily done with some sort of hand sander. A friend uses a sanding disk on a small drill motor. If you are used to working to a line, and proceed slowly, you should be able to get close enough without having to finish on the stock, which of course will be a lot safer for your stock's finish. If you can come up with an old stock that has a small butt, and some pads that have been replaced, these will allow some practice without risking an expensive stock's finish.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I thought it was;
Beat it to fit,
Paint it to match. ;^)

It is. We were just talking about grinding here. I also go with if you cant move it paint it

 

[stork]

I normally start with the bench grinder to take off the majority of the excess. When it gets to that last 1/16-1/8", then I switch to the belt sander.

Back in the day when I worked at a local sporting goods store, we used to use the large ski tuner. That would take it off in a hurry.
Al