Gotta love Jard

[dsandfort]

Some years ago I traded a stock Cooper trigger for a Jard. The Jard was 8-10 years old. I replaced the spring but it never felt "right".
I sent it back to Jard acknowledging that I was not the original owner and it was a bit old. I asked them to look it over and give me an estimate for repair.

Well, today I received a new Jard trigger for the Cooper. No questions/no cost!
I don't know about you, but this is about the best customer service I have experienced.
If you are in need of a replacement trigger, you won't go wrong with Jard.
Del

 

[Geno C]

I've been meaning to try some of there triggers on other stuff. I have one on a 10/22 that I bought years ago and it's a pretty nice piece.

 

[Larryh128]

Some years ago I traded a stock Cooper trigger for a Jard. The Jard was 8-10 years old. I replaced the spring but it never felt "right".
I sent it back to Jard acknowledging that I was not the original owner and it was a bit old. I asked them to look it over and give me an estimate for repair.

Well, today I received a new Jard trigger for the Cooper. No questions/no cost!
I don't know about you, but this is about the best customer service I have experienced.
If you are in need of a replacement trigger, you won't go wrong with Jard.
Del

They are nice people.

 

[Bill K]

I have some of Jard's triggers and have been more than satisfied with them and the companies service.

 

[JLT]

Some years ago I traded a stock Cooper trigger for a Jard. The Jard was 8-10 years old. I replaced the spring but it never felt "right".
I sent it back to Jard acknowledging that I was not the original owner and it was a bit old. I asked them to look it over and give me an estimate for repair.

Well, today I received a new Jard trigger for the Cooper. No questions/no cost!
I don't know about you, but this is about the best customer service I have experienced.
If you are in need of a replacement trigger, you won't go wrong with Jard.
Del

Thanks for posting your experience with the folks at Jard. Your post moved me from 'considering' to 'deciding'. I'm getting one of their new Savage triggers!

If they perform in a Savage like they perform in other designs, they're going to have a HARD time keeping up with demand for some time.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Its a good company

 

[Snuggie]

I have one for a newly acquired #1. I hear they’re a bitch to put in if you don’t have the right tools. Any suggestions or info is greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

[Leeman]

If you mean the Ruger no. 1, very simple, just follow the instructions supplied with the trigger, you don't need any special tools, other than maybe a longish wrench to remove the buttstock.

 

[Snuggie]

^
Great! Thanks! My #1 was made in 1981, do I use the short spring or the long spring?

 

[mauser284]

Some years ago I traded a stock Cooper trigger for a Jard. The Jard was 8-10 years old. I replaced the spring but it never felt "right".
I sent it back to Jard acknowledging that I was not the original owner and it was a bit old. I asked them to look it over and give me an estimate for repair.

Well, today I received a new Jard trigger for the Cooper. No questions/no cost!
I don't know about you, but this is about the best customer service I have experienced.
If you are in need of a replacement trigger, you won't go wrong with Jard.
Del

Always nice to know what companies have great customer service and stand behind their products.

 

[Leeman]

^
Great! Thanks! My #1 was made in 1981, do I use the short spring or the long spring?

Not sure, the only spring that came with mine was for the trigger pull weight and according to the leaflet was available in five different weights, as it's not adjustable for weight, you got the spring that was in the range you wanted, so maybe they've re-designed the unit. My Ruger was made in 1993 if that helps, I bought the trigger maybe 11 or 12 years ago, don't think they'd been out long at that time, but it's worked flawlessly in the time I've had it.

 

[Snuggie]

Thanks Leeman! An off the subject question please. I just acquired this #1 and noticed that the barrel is not floated. Is that normal for #1’s? I’ve never owned a rifle that did not have the barrel floated.

 

[Leeman]

It may depend on the model. I'm fairly certain the sporter models have upward pressure at the forend and maybe also the 1V. My IV was purchased second hand and the previous owner had floated the barrel, from the sanding marks left in the channel and bedded the hanger to the forend, although not that well. I re-did that, bedded the forend to the receiver and ended up having a wider forend made anyway, but still barrel floated and forend bedded to the receiver and hanger. There's some information out there if you do a search on tuning Ruger No. 1's, some do as I did, others keep upwards pressure and relieve contact on the receiver, so different strokes for different folks I guess. I will say I've had three barrels on this rifle and all have shot acceptably set up this way. The Jard trigger was a massive improvement though, as good as many bolt action triggers, maybe not Jewell standard but as good as a Riflebasix I have on a Remington.

 

[Snuggie]

^
Thanks Leeman! Mine is a 1V, .220 Swift, made in 1981. I definitely can not get a dollar bill under forearm. Stops right at the front. Do you by chance know who will do accuracy work on them?

 

[Leeman]

I can't vouch for the guy personally but Mark Penrod's name gets mentioned a lot with regards to working on No. 1's. Penrod Precision in Indiana.

 

[BAM]

Ruger springs come in one of two sizes just replace the current spring with the same size and your good to go. The install can be tricky and you do need some small punches etc . A buddy did mine and it would not have been fun without the tools he had. the instructions that came with it are minimal there is a step by step install with pics floating around on the internet. Printing off a copy of that will be more helpfull...