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GM top engine cleaner

For years I, along with lots of others, have used this stuff to clean carbon out of our match barrels, and it really works. My supply is just about exhausted and I am looking for a replacement. GM doesn’t make the stuff anymore and hasn’t for several years. The product available now from GM doesn’t do the job.

What are you using now? Those of you who do short range benchrest and clean a lot has to have some kind of good product to use. How about sharing the knowledge with me.

Have used “TEC” when I did NBRSA and in my 600 match guns, and I use it in my long range steel bangers. My way is to push two or three patches of tec thru the bore and then brush with it and then push a dry patch through. Then two or three patches with Butches and then brush with Butches and then a couple more patches with Butches and then dry it out.

The Top Engine Cleaner makes the whole process so much easier. Let us know what you use.

Larry Isenhour
 
I like Boretech C4, it dissolves the top layer of carbon pretty fast and if gets under come copper in the process, it goes out too. But I also feel it can lay a barrier down so when you run a copper solvent, you need to brush it to break through,
I may be talking in circles right now, but the only 2 powders I am actively loading with are RL 16 and H 4895, I need to JB the first 6"of all my barrels to remove hard carbon, both are terrible in my opinion. But the last 3/4 of the barrel clean up easy with C4 and copper killer.
Make note, I shoot 250rds minimum between cleanings, your process may be way simpler with less rds fired.
 
I like Boretech C4, it dissolves the top layer of carbon pretty fast and if gets under come copper in the process, it goes out too. But I also feel it can lay a barrier down so when you run a copper solvent, you need to brush it to break through,
I may be talking in circles right now, but the only 2 powders I am actively loading with are RL 16 and H 4895, I need to JB the first 6"of all my barrels to remove hard carbon, both are terrible in my opinion. But the last 3/4 of the barrel clean up easy with C4 and copper killer.
Make note, I shoot 250rds minimum between cleanings, your process may be way simpler with less rds fired.
Every 15 rounds two patches C-4 pushed strait thru, come out black. Then C-4 short stroked first half of barrel, then again full length of barrel. Patches come out brown, that's copper. Bore Teck products as I understand. C-4 is carbon removal, Eliminater is C-4 and CU ( Copper remover ) blend, and CU is strait copper remover. I may need correcting. Usually I just use C-4.
 
Every 15 rounds two patches C-4 pushed strait thru, come out black. Then C-4 short stroked first half of barrel, then again full length of barrel. Patches come out brown, that's copper. Bore Teck products as I understand. C-4 is carbon removal, Eliminater is C-4 and CU ( Copper remover ) blend, and CU is strait copper remover. I may need correcting. Usually I just use C-4.
Lol, I'd be in some nut house painting ceramic figurines if I cleaned every 15 rds.
I bet your system works though. I look at cleaning as punishment for having so much fun.
 
For years I, along with lots of others, have used this stuff to clean carbon out of our match barrels, and it really works. My supply is just about exhausted and I am looking for a replacement. GM doesn’t make the stuff anymore and hasn’t for several years. The product available now from GM doesn’t do the job.

What are you using now? Those of you who do short range benchrest and clean a lot has to have some kind of good product to use. How about sharing the knowledge with me.

Have used “TEC” when I did NBRSA and in my 600 match guns, and I use it in my long range steel bangers. My way is to push two or three patches of tec thru the bore and then brush with it and then push a dry patch through. Then two or three patches with Butches and then brush with Butches and then a couple more patches with Butches and then dry it out.

The Top Engine Cleaner makes the whole process so much easier. Let us know what you use.

Larry Isenhour
I'd like to know also. My older brother turned me on to the GM top engine cleaner back in the early 90s and boy did it work. We ran thru that stuff a few years back and it can't be found anywhere. Maybe we'll get lucky and somebody will share their stash.

Darrin
 
The old top engine cleaner, that I used for many years as a GM tech, was toxic, I was told it can give you kidney, liver, nervous system issues and drain bramage. The kinder and gentler new stuff works ok for its purpose but maybe not so good on barrel carbon. I tossed all the new and old I had, near 20 containers worth figuring I would not need it. I would like to try some of the old stuff though. Going to check around with a few friends s and see if they have any lying around, especially the silver/black cans. Thinking of making an attachment to adapt a cleaning rod to my reciprocal saw, just need to make sure it rotates inside the barrel.
 
Thinking of making an attachment to adapt a cleaning rod to my reciprocal saw, just need to make sure it rotates inside the barrel.
:eek::confused:o_O

Sounds like a good way to trash a barrel in under a minute. Yikes!
 
I would run it really slow for a few seconds then inspect and repeat as necessary.

Many years ago, an experienced machinist told me power tools were just a quicker way to (edited for content) up. By and large, I've found his observation to be spot on.
 
Re sea foam. They make at least 2 products, one is a spray labeled top end ....carbon.... not the liquid gas treatment. I think it works, not sure.
 
Subaru upper engine cleaner works, but it only comes in a spray pack.

I'm lucky though, because the service manager at the local dealer can't credit what I use it for & gives it to me free.
 
Re sea foam. They make at least 2 products, one is a spray labeled top end ....carbon.... not the liquid gas treatment. I think it works, not sure.
I've not noticed and therefore not tried the aerosol version. Next time I'm in the auto parts store I'll have to ask about it. I do know the liquid stuff in the metal can with the threaded cap is worthless as a carbon remover.
 

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