Gloss Stock Finish
- Thread starter 15Tango
- Start date
there is a guy around me that puts a good auto finish on stocks that he has been doing for people.and it looks really good when he gets through with the stock.even said the finish should stand up to the bore cleaning products we use for cleaning the bore.I know this is the way I am going to go when I am ready to trick out my stocks for my rifels.even my little girls 10/22 for her X-mas. ;D
15tango
i have a SecNav M1 Garand MKII (.308) match rifle that i won. i took a maple (blonde) stock and coated it with multiple (13) layers of true oil. i would put a layer on by hand (finger) and let it dry, light buff with 00 steel wool, wipe it dry with a damp cloth and re apply it takes time but 1-2 coats a day protects the gun from the water gods that hate us rifle sling shooters only slightly more thaen the sunfire god. i am blonde like my rifle. the true oil is VERY durable and will look like a urethane finish that accentuates the wood. true oil is cheap and i am very proud of my work. if i can get a pix up i will show ya. good luck to ya.
cheers,
doc
i have a SecNav M1 Garand MKII (.308) match rifle that i won. i took a maple (blonde) stock and coated it with multiple (13) layers of true oil. i would put a layer on by hand (finger) and let it dry, light buff with 00 steel wool, wipe it dry with a damp cloth and re apply it takes time but 1-2 coats a day protects the gun from the water gods that hate us rifle sling shooters only slightly more thaen the sunfire god. i am blonde like my rifle. the true oil is VERY durable and will look like a urethane finish that accentuates the wood. true oil is cheap and i am very proud of my work. if i can get a pix up i will show ya. good luck to ya.
cheers,
doc
There are several ways to get a high gloss finish. You can go with automotive clear coat which is very resistant to most cleaning solvents and oils.
There are also a number of different oil finishes that will give you high gloss, and are easy to apply yourself. My buddy that makes wooden furniture uses a lot of Tung oil, and if you put in enough time it will be slick as glass and shine so bright you need sunglasses.
You can also get good results from certain kinds of polyurethane. I had another friend who restored antique furniture and used what I believe was poly on a lot of different stuff and applied it with a spray gun. The finished product looked and felt like a sheet of glass, just incredible. He put on many, many coats and sanded and used steel wool in between. He would spend days on some projects, but the depth and shine of the finish was just amazing. I will ask him what he used, as I have been meaning to find out for my personal use anyway.
There are also a number of different oil finishes that will give you high gloss, and are easy to apply yourself. My buddy that makes wooden furniture uses a lot of Tung oil, and if you put in enough time it will be slick as glass and shine so bright you need sunglasses.
You can also get good results from certain kinds of polyurethane. I had another friend who restored antique furniture and used what I believe was poly on a lot of different stuff and applied it with a spray gun. The finished product looked and felt like a sheet of glass, just incredible. He put on many, many coats and sanded and used steel wool in between. He would spend days on some projects, but the depth and shine of the finish was just amazing. I will ask him what he used, as I have been meaning to find out for my personal use anyway.
You don't wanna "spray on" nuthin. :
You want hand rubbed,,it's a gun stock. Most hand rubbed finish means you use one finger, and apply a few drops at a time. This process will only take a few or up too 10 days dependant on level of finish you desire. This IS a place where many screw up badly, because they want to shoot it NOW!!
1st is to protect the wood from the elements, and that means the moisture in the summer air and the dryness of winter.
Laural Mountain Forge, Permalyn sealer,,this stuff soaks in deep and dries fast (hours), cover every inch inside and out, you brush this on with a $1 art brush from the hobby shop.
You want gloss? Now comes the rubbed part,,
Bichwood Casy Tru-Oil; Has been mentioned, very easy, some what suseptable to moisture. Put your gun in the rack on a dewwy morning and you'll see some color change, it gets cloudy for a little while and can develop tiny hair line cracks, most folks won't see this.
Spar varnish; This stuff has been use on marine/boat applications for centuries. Go to a fancy bar that has alot of wood,,that stuff that looks like glass? That's Spar.
Tung Oil; Made from the Tung tree, used for about 4000yrs by the chinese and then the rest of the world since trade began. A single coat dries in 10-12 hours.
Boiled Linseed oil; Gotta mention it, most don't like to use this much any more because a single coat can take day's to dry, this is the stuff you see on antique firearms in the museums.
All of the above can continue to be applied for years, if your stock takes a few hit's or dings, it's all about a light sanding, (300-400 grit ??, I don't know your level?) and just rub on another coat.
Good luck, I urge patience,,Take a few day's here and you can have something you can keep and hand down for generations, or if sold, have an increased value because of the care taken.
Personally, I use the Spar for idiots, If I know it's going hunting, and/or the guy's aren't big on care. I'll use the spar for it's tuffness, I dull it down with steel wool. Tru-Oil gets used for re-furb jobs, it's fast, covers well and the common guy is happy with it.
For the Range Roosters or deep curl fancy stuff I've used BLO but that's for folks that will give continued care. The last few and personal stuff have been Tung Oil, just as easy to use as BLO and dries a bit faster.
You want hand rubbed,,it's a gun stock. Most hand rubbed finish means you use one finger, and apply a few drops at a time. This process will only take a few or up too 10 days dependant on level of finish you desire. This IS a place where many screw up badly, because they want to shoot it NOW!!
1st is to protect the wood from the elements, and that means the moisture in the summer air and the dryness of winter.
Laural Mountain Forge, Permalyn sealer,,this stuff soaks in deep and dries fast (hours), cover every inch inside and out, you brush this on with a $1 art brush from the hobby shop.
You want gloss? Now comes the rubbed part,,
Bichwood Casy Tru-Oil; Has been mentioned, very easy, some what suseptable to moisture. Put your gun in the rack on a dewwy morning and you'll see some color change, it gets cloudy for a little while and can develop tiny hair line cracks, most folks won't see this.
Spar varnish; This stuff has been use on marine/boat applications for centuries. Go to a fancy bar that has alot of wood,,that stuff that looks like glass? That's Spar.
Tung Oil; Made from the Tung tree, used for about 4000yrs by the chinese and then the rest of the world since trade began. A single coat dries in 10-12 hours.
Boiled Linseed oil; Gotta mention it, most don't like to use this much any more because a single coat can take day's to dry, this is the stuff you see on antique firearms in the museums.
All of the above can continue to be applied for years, if your stock takes a few hit's or dings, it's all about a light sanding, (300-400 grit ??, I don't know your level?) and just rub on another coat.
Good luck, I urge patience,,Take a few day's here and you can have something you can keep and hand down for generations, or if sold, have an increased value because of the care taken.
Personally, I use the Spar for idiots, If I know it's going hunting, and/or the guy's aren't big on care. I'll use the spar for it's tuffness, I dull it down with steel wool. Tru-Oil gets used for re-furb jobs, it's fast, covers well and the common guy is happy with it.
For the Range Roosters or deep curl fancy stuff I've used BLO but that's for folks that will give continued care. The last few and personal stuff have been Tung Oil, just as easy to use as BLO and dries a bit faster.
While I understand the "Spray" vs, "Rubbed" debate there is another factor that hasn't been considered. The color of the wood!
If you have a walnut stock, I agree that the "Rubbed" finishes are great. You can get a high shine and have an easy to repair finish.
For woods that are "Other" than brown, you have a problem. Even if your stock is a light blonde, you have a problem. All those "Rubbed" finishes will tint your stock. What if your stock is a gray laminate? You don't want an amber tint to it.
Here is where the auto clear coats come into their own. You can get the degree of shine that you like. The only down side as stated before is that if you "Ding it" you have to re-clear coat it.
Bob
If you have a walnut stock, I agree that the "Rubbed" finishes are great. You can get a high shine and have an easy to repair finish.
For woods that are "Other" than brown, you have a problem. Even if your stock is a light blonde, you have a problem. All those "Rubbed" finishes will tint your stock. What if your stock is a gray laminate? You don't want an amber tint to it.
Here is where the auto clear coats come into their own. You can get the degree of shine that you like. The only down side as stated before is that if you "Ding it" you have to re-clear coat it.
Bob
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
I turned a high dollar BR stock that was a nice Blue into nasty Green in a matter of months using rubbed in tru oil--- never again, from then on all I use is Auto Clear, and if it gets dinged I just tape it off and re-coat the damaged area until it's filled,, and I don't see that as a big deal...
holstil
Silver $$ Contributor
I'm with Preacher man on the auto clear. If you have the tools, it's just too easy to make a repair or fix a scuff. Just sand, shoot, wet sand and buff, you can be shooting again next day.
I have to admit though, the best finish that I saw that slides in the bags nice was a slightly satin look from a laquer finish. That Isenhour feller over in Piedmont does some darn nice work.
I think this is a case of cat skinning. I love to learn different ways to do stuff.
Jim
I have to admit though, the best finish that I saw that slides in the bags nice was a slightly satin look from a laquer finish. That Isenhour feller over in Piedmont does some darn nice work.
I think this is a case of cat skinning. I love to learn different ways to do stuff.
Jim
Attachments
15Tango, the stock in the picture you posted has been finished with Automotive Clearcoat.
Auto clear is a lot tougher than most give it credit for. It takes a good hit to actually chip it, and small surface scratches are easily buffed out or wet sanded and buffed out depended on severity of the scratch.
My stock is cleared, and it feels like glass and slides very good in bags.
Auto clear is a lot tougher than most give it credit for. It takes a good hit to actually chip it, and small surface scratches are easily buffed out or wet sanded and buffed out depended on severity of the scratch.
My stock is cleared, and it feels like glass and slides very good in bags.
falconpilot
Gold $$ Contributor
The key with auto clear on a laminate stock is to be sure that you spray the stock heavy, let it soak in and dry, sand, and repeat until the stock quites soaking in the clear. Then it's just a matter of how deep you want the finish to appear...The depth comes from many coats of clear that is sprayed and wet sanded between coats....Also, don't get cheap when buying the clear coating. Spend the money ,and buy good clear such as Dupont or PPG...they are almost impossible to tarnish with cleaning solutions, and will not yellow over time...
Jim
Jim
Attachments
Here is an article that cover a lot of good tips on painting and clearing stocks.
http://www.6mmbr.com/stockpainting.html
Just remember that any paint job, be it color or clear, is only as good as the prep that was put into it prior to being sprayed. The more time and effort you put into getting the surface smooth and defect free the better the end result will be.
I sanded my stock progressively to 1200 grit paper just to be sure it was as smooth as possible. It was probably overkill, but it sure looks good now!
Painting is 90% prep, 10% paint. If you remember that you will get excellent results.
http://www.6mmbr.com/stockpainting.html
Just remember that any paint job, be it color or clear, is only as good as the prep that was put into it prior to being sprayed. The more time and effort you put into getting the surface smooth and defect free the better the end result will be.
I sanded my stock progressively to 1200 grit paper just to be sure it was as smooth as possible. It was probably overkill, but it sure looks good now!
Painting is 90% prep, 10% paint. If you remember that you will get excellent results.
Wayne, if you are going to buy a gun, make sure you buy a HVLP gravity feed gun. They spray at a much lower pressure and produce less overspray, and also use a bit less paint as well.
I worked in my Mom's boyfriend's auto body shop as a teen and he taught me how to spray and what you need for equipment.
I will give you a link to a gun I think will do what you need and provide a good finish as well. I have a larger version that sprays very well, but for painting stocks a smaller gun will be much easier to use. You can obviously spend a lot more, but this will do all you need while providing excellent results. It is made by DeVilbiss, which is a very reputable name in paint equipment. It's from what I would call their "entry level" line, but will still produce a finish superior to anything you will find at most auto or hardware stores. If you use the proper tip size and mix the paint properly, you can get professional results easily.
This is the smaller precision touch-up gun. Perfect size for spraying stocks and other similar sized items. Much easier than using a full size gun. You can also add a bigger paint cup for larger jobs as well. $79.99
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-startingline-mini-detail-spray-gun-802405-p-14429.aspx
This is a 2 gun kit that has a full size gun and the gun above as well. $159.99
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-startingline-hvlp-gravity-auto-painting-touch-up-kit-802342-p-13724.aspx
You will also need a small air regulator to reduce pressure at the gun, and a small inline air filter as well. A water separator and a new air hose just for painting will keep oil and water from ever reaching the gun. All you will need beside what I have listed are paint strainers (free where ever you buy your paint usually) and a paint mixing cup. Well, you will need paint or clear too, but you knew that already.
Inline filters, disposable $7.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/astro-disposable-in-line-filter-6803-p-10744.aspx
Air regulator $29.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-100-psi-ez-read-air-adjusting-valve-803236-p-16595.aspx
Water separator $12.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/paint-gun-water-separator-p-10742.aspx
Spray gun cleaning kit, very handy! $13.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/astro-12-piece-spray-gun-cleaning-kit-9013-p-11613.aspx
Strainer for the gun (fits inside gun where cup screws on, cheap insurance from contaminants) $4.69 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/astro-gravity-gun-strainers-37401-p-10741.aspx
Any questions just ask, if I don't know the answer I can get it for you.
Kenny
I don't know if you have a compressor or not, but here is a low cost Central Pneumatic compressor that will deliver enough air to run a HVLP gun. $139.99 at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/oil-compressors/3-hp-10-gallon-115-psi-air-compressor-90234.html
I worked in my Mom's boyfriend's auto body shop as a teen and he taught me how to spray and what you need for equipment.
I will give you a link to a gun I think will do what you need and provide a good finish as well. I have a larger version that sprays very well, but for painting stocks a smaller gun will be much easier to use. You can obviously spend a lot more, but this will do all you need while providing excellent results. It is made by DeVilbiss, which is a very reputable name in paint equipment. It's from what I would call their "entry level" line, but will still produce a finish superior to anything you will find at most auto or hardware stores. If you use the proper tip size and mix the paint properly, you can get professional results easily.
This is the smaller precision touch-up gun. Perfect size for spraying stocks and other similar sized items. Much easier than using a full size gun. You can also add a bigger paint cup for larger jobs as well. $79.99
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-startingline-mini-detail-spray-gun-802405-p-14429.aspx
This is a 2 gun kit that has a full size gun and the gun above as well. $159.99
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-startingline-hvlp-gravity-auto-painting-touch-up-kit-802342-p-13724.aspx
You will also need a small air regulator to reduce pressure at the gun, and a small inline air filter as well. A water separator and a new air hose just for painting will keep oil and water from ever reaching the gun. All you will need beside what I have listed are paint strainers (free where ever you buy your paint usually) and a paint mixing cup. Well, you will need paint or clear too, but you knew that already.
Inline filters, disposable $7.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/astro-disposable-in-line-filter-6803-p-10744.aspx
Air regulator $29.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-100-psi-ez-read-air-adjusting-valve-803236-p-16595.aspx
Water separator $12.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/paint-gun-water-separator-p-10742.aspx
Spray gun cleaning kit, very handy! $13.99 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/astro-12-piece-spray-gun-cleaning-kit-9013-p-11613.aspx
Strainer for the gun (fits inside gun where cup screws on, cheap insurance from contaminants) $4.69 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/astro-gravity-gun-strainers-37401-p-10741.aspx
Any questions just ask, if I don't know the answer I can get it for you.
Kenny
I don't know if you have a compressor or not, but here is a low cost Central Pneumatic compressor that will deliver enough air to run a HVLP gun. $139.99 at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/oil-compressors/3-hp-10-gallon-115-psi-air-compressor-90234.html
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