Giving Hornady One Shot another try

[Oleg S]

Don't worry about getting One Shot in the neck. I actually make sure I do get it in the neck and leave it in there. Doesn't hurt anything one bit. I stand the brass up in a loading block, spray them from above at 45 degree angle (without the nozzle that comes with it) on all sides of brass getting it inside the neck as well. Let it sit about 5 minutes after spraying it before sizing it. After sizing it I wipe the outside of the cases off with a rag/towel and it's done. Been using One Shot since I started reloading, no issues.

I tested some loads yesterday with One Shot left inside necks after resizing.
I like it I jerked shot 7 & 8
ShotMarker velocities off. LabRadar is the real data.
Thank you very much Sir

 

[s100whunter]

always shake can before using one shot

 

[Oleg S]

10-4

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Tried it, hated it. Can still hanging around the bench. I do like the One Shot wax though. I use it for all my non match rounds. For 308 and 223, I use Imperial Sizing wax. My main gripe, other than a couple of stuck cases, was the lube inside the neck, causing powder hang ups. I find tha every 5th case, a little wax wiped across the case mouth is adequate to lube the expander, but all mine are polished to size and need little lubing.

 

[acloco]

Royal Case & Die Lube - until you try this, everything is second place.

Available in spray and pump, along with traditional jar. Have not used the spray or pump version.

Touch index finger on the sizing lube, grab case, roll between finger and thumb, and size.


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012981057?pid=623016

 

[Rob01]

All these touch every piece of brass methods are fine for 50 pieces but try and do 900-1200. Lol super slow.

 

[dc.fireman]

I tried One-Shot. I tried Dillon Spray Lube. Even tried Pam cooking spray once on a dare.

I stuck a case in a Redding die, and called Redding techs for advice on how to un-stick it. After they helped me out, they advised Imperial Die-sizing wax, a very light smear, around the lower third of the case. Redding will tell you that most of their stuck cases are stuck at the base of the case where the die constriction is the tightest. They advised not to lube the shoulder. Perhaps a slight smear, across the case mouth if I hear the expander squeaking. I'm still on my first can of Imperial.

I use a non-textured rubber glove, and grease up my thumb and forefinger. I can roll around ten cases in this manner before I need to go back to the can for a smidge more. It's easy to wipe off if need be, or it tumbles off in about 15 minutes.

I too had some powder sticking to the inside of the necks occasionally, so I just added a light tumbling step afterwards, and no more issues.

To each their own - I respect that everyone has different results, and knows what works for their method. Just my experience which might help someone else out in the future.

 

[2506]

I use the One Shot AEROSOL spray lube with never a problem. A number of years ago I ran out and the local store only had the PUMP spray bottle of One Shot lube. I got some. I followed the instructions to the letter. The first couple cases, 7mm Mauser, sized hard and the third STUCK. I was using Lee dies so untightening the stem lock and using my heavy brass hammer on the stem and it knocked the case out. I decided not to use the spay lube again. I put it on the shelf. I decided to try it again the other day. I was down to my last aerosol can of One Shot and I had a 50 cal ammo can full of 5.56 cases to size. I shook up the bottle for about 5 minutes. Put some cases in a plastic tray that 40 cal S&W comes in skipping a space between cases. I sprayed these cases down good and let them set for 10 minutes. These cases have crimped in primers and I am using a Lee sizing die that I have had no problem sizing and popping the crimped in primers out with. First case sized kind of hard but thinking it was just a tougher crimped primer I sized another case and it STUCK and ripped the rim off when I tried to extract it. Loosened the stem lock and brought out the big brass hammer and popped it loose. I then reached up and got the pump bottle of One Shot and dropped it into the trash can. I then washed the other cases to remove that lube. The next day after allowing these cases to dry well I used the aerosol One Shot to lube them and they ran like a sewing machine. Sized the whole 50 cal. can of cases without a hitch.

 

[Larry Rizzuto]

I used Hornady lube 2-3 times and got rid of it. I had stuck cases on 2 separate occasions with a 300 RUM. Never again, been using Balistol for the last couple of years with no issues.

 

[Poor Shot 65]

I use One Shot all the time and love it. I only use it on BR and 6.5 creedmoor cases though ..

Adam

 

[BenPerfected]

I only use the One Shot lube. If you are going to use One Shot, my input is to spray the brass heavily after washing & drying your brass. If you decide to take a break, respray the brass.....you can’t overspray.
Ben

 

[bozo699]

This seams like a lot of fuss over case lubing. I have used just about everything out there including chapstick and some homemade recipes and the only cases I have ever stuck outta the hundreds of thousands I have loaded were under 5 tops and in all cases it was my fault!... to much not enough or not following instructions! One shot is great! I use Imperial 98% of the time and love it but if I was doing 500 .223 cases I wouldn’t even consider imperial I would use one shot or something comparable,.... it’s not rocket science people.
Wayne

 

[Sieg]

Just got back into reloading after 25 year layoff. Used RCBS case lube for rifle cases back then, I've been using Imperial and like it very other than the additional time. Tried Hornady One Shot a few time now, thorough application appears to be a key or with light applications not waiting too long.

I set the brass up like this and spray 4 angles with the can pointing downward 40-45 degrees. last 50 cases I sized I had waited a few hours after applying and found the case was grabbing a little when coming out of the die. I was bumping necks .0015-.0025" and the grab was enough to negate most of the bump, so I started applying Imperial and was back in spec. My guess was I was too thrifty on the application of the last batch.

The baking pan and cooling sheet work well and go in the dishwasher afterwards.

 

[Rob01]

Plastic bag is easier than setting them all up.

 

[Metal God]

Any store bought case lube is a waist of money . I spent $50 on lanolin and alcohol . I likely have enough lube to last the rest of my life or several hundred thousand cases . That may very well be a low guess . In 2 years or several thousand rifle cases . I've only mixed two batches of spray and the second mixture was just done a couple months ago and is still pretty much full . I still have enough material to mix up another 20+ batches of 12oz bottles . Or 40-ish years of lube left .

Now when you break it down I'm not saving that much per case or year BUT I will not need to buy any lube for the rest of my life . Meaning I'll never be low , I'll never be stressed in panic buying times if it's in stock or that I won't be able to size cases . I'm simply gtg period . That in it's self is worth it's weight in LUBE .

If there's a down side , it's that the more you lube the better cost wise . Lets say you want to lube 100 cases . That's kinda hard to and be efficient with the lube at the same time . You will likely waist more lube then you actually need . I can lube up about 1k 223 cases with 4 sprays of the lube but you'll need one spray to do 100 cases when you could have done 250 with that same amount of lube .

So for me 250ct 308 minimum or 500 minimum 223 . I how ever have LARGE counts of brass and is how I prep cases . I just finished loading a 750ct lot of LC-15 5.56 cases . Which means I'll shoot all of those before prepping any , then prep the whole 750ct lot at one time , well the whole lot in each step . I'll clean them all but may not size right away . Then size all but maybe not trim them right away . regardless at each step the whole lot is prepped rather then just enough to go shoot for a day . I try to do this with all my cartridges I load for and if done routinely . I often have several hundred to thousands of cases always read to load in all catridges I load for .

 

[bozo699]

Any store bought case lube is a waist of money . I spent $50 on lanolin and alcohol . I likely have enough lube to last the rest of my life or several hundred thousand cases . That may very well be a low guess . In 2 years or several thousand rifle cases . I've only mixed two batches of spray and the second mixture was just done a couple months ago and is still pretty much full . I still have enough material to mix up another 20+ batches of 12oz bottles . Or 40-ish years of lube left .

Now when you break it down I'm not saving that much per case or year BUT I will not need to buy any lube for the rest of my life . Meaning I'll never be low , I'll never be stressed in panic buying times if it's in stock or that I won't be able to size cases . I'm simply gtg period . That in it's self is worth it's weight in LUBE .

If there's a down side , it's that the more you lube the better cost wise . Lets say you want to lube 100 cases . That's kinda hard to and be efficient with the lube at the same time . You will likely waist more lube then you actually need . I can lube up about 1k 223 cases with 4 sprays of the lube but you'll need one spray to do 100 cases when you could have done 250 with that same amount of lube .

So for me 250ct 308 minimum or 500 minimum 223 . I how ever have LARGE counts of brass and is how I prep cases . I just finished loading a 750ct lot of LC-15 5.56 cases . Which means when I shoot all of those before prepping any then prep the whole 750ct lot at one time , well the whole lot in each step . I'll clean them all but may not size right away . Then size all but maybe not trim them right away . regardless at each step the whole lot is prepped rather then just enough to go shoot for a day . I try to do this with all my cartridges I load for and if done routinely . I often have several hundred to thousands of cases always read to load in all catridges I load for .

Is it Lanolin oil or grease your mixing with alcohol? and what’s your ratio?
Wayne

 

[ebb]

You jinxxed me I haven't stuck a case in years , till I saw this and locked a 223 in the die.

 

[Hohn]

I recently ordered a Forster stuck case kit. I've had to use it no less than 8 times in the last two weeks. My forster FL sizer is not scratched and the die is near mirror finish inside, and the high expander is properly adjusted per Forster guidance with the vent hole in line with the bottom 3rd of the expander. The die has been thoroughly cleaned after each sticking. The die here is not at fault.

I've been using one-shot lately. But I even had a case stick with my normal lanolin/alcohol blend.

In my case, it was a combination of two factors:
1) not enough one shot applied and
2) not distributing lube on the neck sufficiently. The simple spray at 45 degrees is not sufficient. Spread the lube with gloved fingers and q-tip the ID and you can feel a huge reduction in sizing effort.

Just the same, I have my Forster die being sent back to get honed. The .240 ID of their .223 die is just excessively small in the neck and I think is the main reason I've only stuck cases in my Forster .223 and never with the 6.5cm.

 

[Hohn]

Is it Lanolin oil or grease your mixing with alcohol? and what’s your ratio?
Wayne

I use the ratio of 1 part lanolin to 9 parts alcohol. I've seen recipes as high as 20% lanolin, but I think it's a little excessive and the cases and up very gooey.

 

[Hohn]

So far I've actually had really good results with Renaissance wax. It's probably like Imperial sizing wax, only way cheaper.