Would you mind sharing what you feel may be a better scale than the 10–10? I just picked up a nice clean RCBS 5-10 which hasn’t arrived yet and just got a nice Ohaus 505 but I haven’t really had time to look it over yet. I am hoping to add a nice Lyman M5 and RCBS/Ohaus 10-10 at some point. Maybe even a couple Reddings. I never thought I’d find these old scales so interesting!The US made 10-10 is good but there are other better beam scales. Welcome to the addiction!
I own two 10-10's one is a little rough the other is very good. I recently purchased a Redding #1 from Scott Parker and used the Redding to check the accuracy of the 10-10's. The rough 10-10 needs some work! If you would do a search of older forms I think it was member Boyd Allen that posted a very informitive post on tuning the 10-10. I am searching for a good deal on an M5 to add to my collection.Would you mind sharing what you feel may be a better scale than the 10–10? I just picked up a nice clean RCBS 5-10 which hasn’t arrived yet and just got a nice Ohaus 505 but I haven’t really had time to look it over yet. I am hoping to add a nice Lyman M5 and RCBS/Ohaus 10-10 at some point. Maybe even a couple Reddings. I never thought I’d find these old scales so interesting!
I check my scale with a piece of sttainless steel I made at work to weigh about 33 gr. I weighed it on a lab scale to many decimal places and rounded to 2 places. Engraved the weight on my standard. It doesn't matter if the scale reads 30.0 gr and it's actually 30.1. As long as the weight weighs the same amount each time you verify your OK. I load for accurate varminnt rifles. I also put a drop of oil on the agate bearing. Just keep it clean.I am interested in getting my RCBS 10-10 calibrated but from my research this scale is not USA made scale. I bought this scale used. What are the sins of the non USA 10-10 scales that makes them not worth the time ore trouble to calibrate?
Hello Webster, use some graphite shaved from a lead pencil for the agate bearings. Get that oil outa there it builds to a gummy mess. Check the older forms for the Boyd Allen post on beam scales.I check my scale with a piece of sttainless steel I made at work to weigh about 33 gr. I weighed it on a lab scale to many decimal places and rounded to 2 places. Engraved the weight on my standard. It doesn't matter if the scale reads 30.0 gr and it's actually 30.1. As long as the weight weighs the same amount each time you verify your OK. I load for accurate varminnt rifles. I also put a drop of oil on the agate bearing. Just keep it clean.
I actually talked to Boyd and he had some very good suggestions on tuning my 10-10.I own two 10-10's one is a little rough the other is very good. I recently purchased a Redding #1 from Scott Parker and used the Redding to check the accuracy of the 10-10's. The rough 10-10 needs some work! If you would do a search of older forms I think it was member Boyd Allen that posted a very informitive post on tuning the 10-10. I am searching for a good deal on an M5 to add to my collection.
One or two kernels is normal for a tuned beam scale.What kind of resolution is expected out of these old scales? .01? 0.1 grains?
No reason to assume oil gets gummy with time. Cannot imagine my car running on gummy oil. An eyeball check will verify cleanlyness. Movement of the metal piviot may push graphite out of the contact area? Pencil scrapings are not as fine as purchased graphite. Lead pencils are not 100% graphite. The graphite is mixed with a clay for a binder.Hello Webster, use some graphite shaved from a lead pencil for the agate bearings. Get that oil outa there it builds to a gummy mess. Check the older forms for the Boyd Allen post on beam scales.