Front rest advice

[Art Dirindin]

Been briefly shooting in ARA factory class and are progressing nicely. I recently bought a B14R/s as a dedicated ARA rifle. Been really trying to grind it out and develop my bench form and how best to shoot a card and have thus far put almost 1k rounds down my B14R/s barrel doing so. Now that the real cold winter temps have set in to my area we have suspended the 50 yard outdoor shoots in favor of indoor 23 yard fun shoots till warmer temps return.

One thing that keeps on giving me fits is my front rest. I was advised to practice like I am competing so I do just that. My rest is a Bald eagle windage top rest with an aluminum tripod base. I did do the mod that changes out the cable to a knob for adjusting the wind. Works great for shooting groups but not very well shooting 25 separate bulls when shooting a card at 50 yards. No matter how dead level I get it, it just doesn't transition in the vertical or horizontal from bulls eye to bulls eye with any degree of fluidness consistency or repeatability ESPECIALLY when trying to transition horizontally from bulls eye to bulls eye it really stinks.
I constantly have to make all kinds of micro adjustments to get my TD on target. This is very problematic when ever I shoot.

I have multiple Protector rear bags (#13 rabbit ear & deluxe bumble bee) , Protector, bald eagle and Caldwell front bags I use and none seamed to help.

I am looking to either buy a new rest or a new windage adjustable top to put on my Bald eagle base and am looking for some advice what anyone here has had experience with in a front rest that moves smoothly both in the vertical and horizontal but especially while transition in the vertical left to right and back right to left.
I was seriously considering buying a Shadetree joystick top until I read it doesn't have enough horizontal travel at 50 yards to cover a ASA factory class card.
Rests like the Seb, T-rex and NATO are waaaaaay out of my price range.

So anyone have any rest suggestions?

I am trying to stay within a <$500 budget closer to $400 the better.
Included a pic of my B14R/s in it's current bench set up if that will help with suggestions.

 

[Grey Kiwi]

I have the same rest and had the same problem.
May I point you to Rimfire Central and this thread...(mods please delete if not allowed).
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/good-shooting’s-fat-bag-as-a-front-rest.1262098/
Read through a bit and you will find my mods with description and photos of what I did.
Basically...after trying the usual mods I threw away the springs and made a threaded rod adjuster.
The hardest part was figuring out what went where.
I'm using that RFC link instead of repeating everything on here...but am happy to do a new thread on here if needed. My input on that thread starts about #14 then continues to show the bits and pieces and the mod I made.
I now have full travel across the windage, it's smoother, no slack or backlash.
May work for you, and not expensive for the few bits needed.
EDIT: I put up a new thread on here, but only allowed 6 photos. The RFC link has a more detailed story of the idea and more photos.

 

[redrockranger]

Been briefly shooting in ARA factory class and are progressing nicely. I recently bought a B14R/s as a dedicated ARA rifle. Been really trying to grind it out and develop my bench form and how best to shoot a card and have thus far put almost 1k rounds down my B14R/s barrel doing so. Now that the real cold winter temps have set in to my area we have suspended the 50 yard outdoor shoots in favor of indoor 23 yard fun shoots till warmer temps return.

One thing that keeps on giving me fits is my front rest. I was advised to practice like I am competing so I do just that. My rest is a Bald eagle windage top rest with an aluminum tripod base. I did do the mod that changes out the cable to a knob for adjusting the wind. Works great for shooting groups but not very well shooting 25 separate bulls when shooting a card at 50 yards. No matter how dead level I get it, it just doesn't transition in the vertical or horizontal from bulls eye to bulls eye with any degree of fluidness consistency or repeatability ESPECIALLY when trying to transition horizontally from bulls eye to bulls eye it really stinks.
I constantly have to make all kinds of micro adjustments to get my TD on target. This is very problematic when ever I shoot.

I have multiple Protector rear bags (#13 rabbit ear & deluxe bumble bee) , Protector, bald eagle and Caldwell front bags I use and none seamed to help.

I am looking to either buy a new rest or a new windage adjustable top to put on my Bald eagle base and am looking for some advice what anyone here has had experience with in a front rest that moves smoothly both in the vertical and horizontal but especially while transition in the vertical left to right and back right to left.
I was seriously considering buying a Shadetree joystick top until I read it doesn't have enough horizontal travel at 50 yards to cover a ASA factory class card.
Rests like the Seb, T-rex and NATO are waaaaaay out of my price range.

So anyone have any rest suggestions?

I am trying to stay within a <$500 budget closer to $400 the better.
Included a pic of my B14R/s in it's current bench set up if that will help with suggestions.

Checkout Daniel Greenlaw windage top.

 

[1911nut]

I’m shooting off a Sinclair heavy Varmint windage rest, with the target and rest level I can move horizontally and vertically with only minimal fine adjustments. I do bump the forend to the stop a few times to ensure the scope dot comes back to the target dot repeatedly. Also a 3 oz trigger which has helped.

A bag rider helps level the B14R in moving from bull to bull, I got this one that attaches to a pic rail.

EGW AR Bag Rider (Front Only)

Elevate your shooting experience with the EGW AR Bag Rider, designed for 2" handguards. Precision machined from delrin plastic for durability. Domestic shipping only.

www.egwguns.com

I got the pic rail here

Accu-Shot Monopod Precision Shooting Rifle Rest Magpul PRS Rail

Accu-Shot precision monopods, Atlas bipods and rifle accessories provide a high-degree of accuracy for long-range hunting, law enforcement or military duty.

www.accu-shot.com

 

[BCR1]

Checkout Daniel Greenlaw windage top.

I second the DR Greenlaw tops. I improved my scores by using his top. I also installed a Sinclair speed screw on the rear for verticlal adjustments.

Bill

 

[Art Dirindin]

I used the link and saw how you installed a section of threaded rod on your rest along with a rod coupling for I am assuming added rigidity and support for the T-rod that allows it to rotate smoothly that you welded the rod coupling onto a plate of your own making and screwed it onto the rest.
Very slick design. I am a good enough welder to do such a thing all I would need to know is where did you buy the devices you used for eye guides that are threaded on one end that serve as the what I would call the live end and dead end supports for the threaded rod? and that is 3/8" threaded rod, correct?

 

[Art Dirindin]

I second the DR Greenlaw tops. I improved my scores by using his top. I also installed a Sinclair speed screw on the rear for verticlal adjustments.

Bill

Checkout Daniel Greenlaw windage top.

Thanks to all for your reply's so far.
Does the Greenlaw windage top have enough horizontal movement to cover a 25 bull card at 50 yards?

 

[Rwfish]

Thanks to all for your reply's so far.
Does the Greenlaw windage top have enough horizontal movement to cover a 25 bull card at 50 yards?

Yes. I use one of his rests for ARA on a Sinclair Heavy varmint rest. As long as your level it holds horizontal very well. You’ll use about 75% horizontal travel available on an ARA card if you set on center. This still will not correct your vertical travel issue as that’s dependent on the rest base.

 

[Grey Kiwi]

I used the link and saw how you installed a section of threaded rod on your rest along with a rod coupling for I am assuming added rigidity and support for the T-rod that allows it to rotate smoothly that you welded the rod coupling onto a plate of your own making and screwed it onto the rest.
Very slick design. I am a good enough welder to do such a thing all I would need to know is where did you buy the devices you used for eye guides that are threaded on one end that serve as the what I would call the live end and dead end supports for the threaded rod? and that is 3/8" threaded rod, correct?

In my case it's 8mm threaded rod because NZ has moved to Metric system.
So 'about' 5/16" (or 3/8" would be fine, but it's a tad bigger diameter than I used).
The 'rod ends' as we call them are normal engineering supplies, and bought mine locally here in NZ. Mine have an 8mm threaded post.
I'm guessing you are in the US? Here's a couple of places.
https://rodendsupply.com/product-category/rod-ends/
https://www.fkrodends.com/products/rod-ends/
Obviously you need a 'rod end' that has the correct size hole to support your choice of threaded rod diameter.
Yes for the welding. I don't have a welder now so I used JB Weld. I could have had a local company weld it for me but my way was cheaper, and I wanted to see how it performed first. If you can weld then that's great, although there isn't much weight to move.
The long 'connector nut' is not for support. It is mounted by the backplate (attachment plate) to the actual windage slide. It is this connector nut that moves the windage as you turn the threaded rod.
Even with the rifle mounted I can easily move the windage slide. If I have trouble then for sure I'll get mine welded too.
Before the mod I had trouble in getting the rest to traverse from full left to full right across one of our larger target cards. I had to slide the rear bag across to align with the full right hand target dots.
Now I have full travel and can easily align on those pesky dots.
Hitting them is another story!
EDIT: I think it's easier to make up and fit the 2 end pieces and the rod ends first.
Put in the threaded rod, and wind on the long 'connector' nut (barrel nut) as you go.
When the rod is sitting in place and the connector nut is where you want it, then make up your back plate (attachment plate) for the windage slide.
Remove all the above, drill and tap the windage slide to accept your back plate and mount that, then put all the other bits back on again.
Get your connector nut where it sits nicely to your connector plate and weld it there. Cover your threaded rod's thread to stop weld spatter jamming up your threads.
Now it is firmly affixed and fully aligned.
Don't try to weld the attachment piece on to the connector nut first before assembling everything as it is too hard to get it all aligned properly (I tried that method first! My son welded it at his work for me, but did not align as it should).
Welding it together (or JB Weld) is best left for the last thing to do.

 

[Art Dirindin]

Yes. I use one of his rests for ARA on a Sinclair Heavy varmint rest. As long as your level it holds horizontal very well. You’ll use about 75% horizontal travel available on an ARA card if you set on center. This still will not correct your vertical travel issue as that’s dependent on the rest base.

Again thanks for the reply. I was hoping you'd say yes. $300 is doable.
As far as my vertical issue it doesn't occur when using the boat wheel for adjusting up or down, only when tightening down the fine elevation handle causes the rest shift slightly if I don't tighten all the way it has no affect. My biggest issue is horizontal adjustment issues.

 

[Rwfish]

Again thanks for the reply. I was hoping you'd say yes. $300 is doable.
As far as my vertical issue it doesn't occur when using the boat wheel for adjusting up or down, only when tightening down the fine elevation handle causes the rest shift slightly if I don't tighten all the way it has no affect. My biggest issue is horizontal adjustment issues.

I use a speed screw in the rear foot of the rest for my elevation changes once my coarse setting with the wheel is set to lowest target edge..

 

[skeeljc]

Here is how I improved my Bald Eagle:

Bald Eagle Rest

I finally received my Bald Eagle cast iron Y-rest. It only took six months from order to receipt. I have to admit I am impressed with the quality. The machine work is excellent and almost all the threads are inch. There are some things I do not like so here is my list of modifications: 1. I...

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[Art Dirindin]

In my case it's 8mm threaded rod because NZ has moved to Metric system.
So 'about' 5/16" (or 3/8" would be fine, but it's a tad bigger diameter than I used).
The 'rod ends' as we call them are normal engineering supplies, and bought mine locally here in NZ. Mine have an 8mm threaded post.
I'm guessing you are in the US? Here's a couple of places.
https://rodendsupply.com/product-category/rod-ends/
https://www.fkrodends.com/products/rod-ends/
Obviously you need a 'rod end' that has the correct size hole to support your choice of threaded rod diameter.
Yes for the welding. I don't have a welder now so I used JB Weld. I could have had a local company weld it for me but my way was cheaper, and I wanted to see how it performed first. If you can weld then that's great, although there isn't much weight to move.
The long 'connector nut' is not for support. It is mounted by the backplate (attachment plate) to the actual windage slide. It is this connector nut that moves the windage as you turn the threaded rod.
Even with the rifle mounted I can easily move the windage slide. If I have trouble then for sure I'll get mine welded too.
Before the mod I had trouble in getting the rest to traverse from full left to full right across one of our larger target cards. I had to slide the rear bag across to align with the full right hand target dots.
Now I have full travel and can easily align on those pesky dots.
Hitting them is another story!
EDIT: I think it's easier to make up and fit the 2 end pieces and the rod ends first.
Put in the threaded rod, and wind on the long 'connector' nut (barrel nut) as you go.
When the rod is sitting in place and the connector nut is where you want it, then make up your back plate (attachment plate) for the windage slide.
Remove all the above, drill and tap the windage slide to accept your back plate and mount that, then put all the other bits back on again.
Get your connector nut where it sits nicely to your connector plate and weld it there. Cover your threaded rod's thread to stop weld spatter jamming up your threads.
Now it is firmly affixed and fully aligned.
Don't try to weld the attachment piece on to the connector nut first before assembling everything as it is too hard to get it all aligned properly (I tried that method first! My son welded it at his work for me, but did not align as it should).
Welding it together (or JB Weld) is best left for the last thing to do.

Yes I am in the USofA in lovely NW Indiana

 

[Dusty Stevens]

All it takes is a bump of your rear bag sideways and rearward to be able to cover a card with a shadetree top. Youll be much happier with a joystick

 

[linekin]

A Sinclair speed screw may help with your vertical fine adjustments.

Sinclair Speed Screw | Brownells

The Speed Screw replaces the rear leg in the Sinclair Rifle Rest. It is used for high speed vertical travel between the record target and the sighter target, and for quick fine-tune vertical adjustments. All stainless steel construction and qualit...

www.brownells.com

Fine adjustments are something you'll have to get use to shooting off a 2pc. Minimizing them is about all you can do imo. I personally have more trouble with vertical fine adjustments than horizontal but shoot off a Randolph mainly so its super easy.
Also have a Shadetree top in a Sinclair base that I use some & it makes both nuisances pretty much a non issue. A Shadetree top & a speed screw would be the cats meow.
The only reason I haven't completely switched to the Shadetree setup is I shoot 2 different width forends (IR50) & the bags take a little time to replace, which I don't want to mess with. Otherwise its all I use with my VH cf gun. With the speed screw I don't have to touch the mariner wheel at all. Without it I do.
Thumbs up for the bad rider too.
Keith

 

[Sandstorm]

Shadetree top & a speed screw would be the cats meow.

This is what I put on my grizzly cast iron........worked great.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Shadetree top wont really work with a speed screw. I cant figure out why that would be halfway usable

 

[linekin]

Shadetree top wont really work with a speed screw. I cant figure out why that would be halfway usable

If you referring to the handle hitting the top of the speed screw, you’re right. But it does work. I’ve used it both with & w/o.

 

[Sandstorm]

Yea I did end up not using the speed screw to get more clearance....
but the top worked great for the time i used it.

 

[doclu60]

A word of caution here. If the rifle/rest combo is in fact going to be used in ARA sanctioned Factory class events, bag riders are not legal. Rule 8.4.1.4.13. to be specific.

Scott